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Q: Bart Chow Wrote: I would like to know what you recommend as to tire chains. What type, brand and where to get them. I have 285/75 16" BFG All Terrains on my 1996 FZJ80. A: I often use tire chains for off road traction. There is little you can do (including lockers) which will add as much traction as a set of chains. I've said this before, but here goes again... If I had to chose betwen putting a set of chains on both ends of a rig to get up a slick muddy hill, or having lockers in each axle... I'd chose the chains. And if you already have the lockers, and large aggressive tread tires, the chains will still make a tremendous difference. A combination like this can provide some amazing results. We often put the chains on at the trailhead, and leave them on the rig for several days and literally hundreds of trail miles. We don't traverse slick rock, or large expanses of sand. The boulders that we deal with on these trips are usually found deep in the middle of mud bogs. With those limitations we see just about every type of trail surface and obstacle. The chains are not a detriment for any of it, and are a great advantage for most of the trail. At top trail speeds of 10-15 MPH (usually much slower) chain wear is minimal to the point of uninportance. In snow conditions chains are just as impressive. There really isn't one "best" type of tire chain. Variables to be considered include cost, weight, and the type of use. There are a couple of basic designs that are commonly seen (this doesn't include "tirecables" or "cable chains" which are not worth considering for heavy duty use on a 4x4). The oldest and most often seen design is the "ladder chain". This is the tire chain which provides cross chains running straight across the tread. The "diamond chain" has gained a little more attention for light vehicles recently, but it has been in use for heavy equipmant for a long time as well. The diamond chain has cross chains that run over the tread at intersecting angles. depending on the exact method and spacing, this can result in always having a chain between the tire and the road, where as a ladder type chain will allow small spaces between the cross bars where the tire contacts the road by itself. The ladder chain is lighter, and less expensive. The diamond chain provides better lateral traction in some situations, and is a bit more resistant to "slinging" from the centripetal force of the spinning tire. They are sadi to be superior for high speed use. But I have never seen any justification for high speed use of chains in the first case. If the traction situation is so bad that you need chains, then you are foolish to attempt to travel at high speeds. It is also very hard on the chains, and wears them at a geometerically accelrated rate. I have heard it said that a ladder chain will not provide for cornering traction. Of course the folks I have heard make that statement have never used chains of any sort. They are wrong, and this isn't true. All ladder chains that I have ever seen use "square" links in the cross chains. Some diamond style do not. Square links lie flat against the tire, and wear much better than a standard link. The do not sacrifice traction to do so. Some heavier chains have V-bars welded to the cross links. As the name inplies, they are "V" shaped sections pointed out from the tire to provide better grip on ice. They do this well. They wear faster than the rest of the chain, and make little difference in snow, mud or clay. When all is said and done, for my use and money a set of heavy duty ladder chains is the only way to go.. I use mine for deep snow (unplowed roads, and trails), and more so for mud and clay. I don't use V-bar chains because of the increased wear factor, and since I use studded tires in the winter, I don't don chains for icy situations anyway. In the sizes suitable for tire diameters of 30 inches and under, and widths of 10 inches and less, the common retail offerings are often fairly lightweight. The larger chains are usually of suitable size chain. A trick that I like is to purchase replacement cross chains (sold for repair purposes), and double the number of cross chains on each tire. It adds some weight, and of course expense to the chain, but for larger tires the spacing of the cross chains can get a bit wide (I'm running chains on 35x12.5s). This makes for a lot more grip, and a slightly smoother ride. In the regions of the country (world) where snow is common in the winter, tire chains can usually be found in many local retail outlets. They seem to vary regionally as to manufacturer. I would not pay a premium for a "Name Brand" chain. For example, ARB sells tire chains. But I would not expect them to perform any better than any properly assembled and sized chain regardless of maker. This is pretty basic technology. Check at the tralier supply stores, auto parts stores, and the like. Most will let you test fit a chain before you buy, and obviuosly inspections are no big deal. look at the type of latching system. there are few different ones out there. Make sure it will not be exceedingly difficult to operate with cold, wet or muddy fingers. Check the size of the chain used, and look carefully at the welds in a few of the links. Make sure they are solid. (You're mainly looking to ensure that the chain itself is of acceptable quality, as some of the cheap stuff out of the orient is rather puny.) If you are willing to spend a little more than you would for the cheapest chains (and still a bit less than what you'd pay for the "impressive name"), then check with a local heavy equipment supply house, or a cable and chain wholesaler that serves the industrial users in your area. They can make you a custom fitted tire chain with any features or pattern you want. Regardless of manufacturer claims, use chain tensioners on all tire chains. I run a pair of lightweight tensioners on each tire (just because two of the lightweight type are cheaper than one of the heavier styles). Keep your chains tight if you want them to last, and again, keep the speed down. You may see highway plows running along at 50 mph with the chains stretching and singing as they go. But those are extremely heavy chains they are using, and the drivers don't have to pay for them (or any damage that they do when they contact the body after they stretch out from the abuse). If you only run one set of chains on a 4x4 rig, put them on the front end. This will provide better steering and braking control. EXCEPT ... When climbing or descending a steep or slippery hill, you want to have the chains on the uphill end. Other wise there is a very real chance of loss of control under braking when descending, or under power when climbing, as the unchained end of the rig looses traction and tries to slide down and around the chained end which still has bite. Send your questions to Mark at cruiser@rockcrawler.com |
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