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Q: Frank Neal wrote:Where can I get a higher output alternator? My Cruiser has an F2 out of an 82 FJ40. Also, where can you get the aftermarket steering stabilizer that you mentioned and how and where do you attach it? Last question, replacement ball joints for the steering rack, tie rods and such? are they hard to install? Where to find them? A: Unfortunately my '66 is a project in progress. It has a V8 that the previous owner installed, and a poorly engineered power steering conversion. Both of these will have to be redone before I will take it out of the driveway. On the bright side it has a very good body, with almost zero rust or damage... I believe that both Man-A-Fre and Specter carry higher output alternators ready to bolt right in to a Cruiser. A common solution is to swap in a GM alternator. The wiring modifications are simple (the last time I looked there was a pretty good description on the TLCA website, under the Tech Exchange section). It is also a simple matter to wire in dual toyota alternators, usuing a separate regulator for each. For that matter, if you are still running the original 40 amp alternator which came with the '66, you can install a stock Cruiser alternator from a a later model rig for 50-55 amps of charging power. An aftermarket "one wire" unit is another option. Steering stabilizers are also available from a wide variety of sources. If I tried to list them, I'd leave out more than I included. Just about any supplier of 4x4 accesories can provide this item. There are a few which mount in place of the factory unit, between the front cross member and the center arm. I prefer the more universal type which connects one end to the axle housing, and the other end of the stabilizer to the tie rod. This will isolate more of the steering linkage from road shock than the factory location will. Replacement Tie rod ends are again available in a number of different places, ranging from the big Cruiser specific operations, to the dealer, to the corner parts house. They are not hard to find. Q: Shane Cromie wrote: Iam Trying to fix up a '76 FJ40. I bought it in Fairbanks, Alaska and now live in Florida (Can't wait to move back, though!) Anyways, the body is in o.k. shape but it still has some rust problems! Under the driver floor board is rusted all the way through along the rocker panel. And of course the rear corners and above the wheels along the rivets are not as good as I would like. So, this is my first project truck and I am trying to fix it up nice. What do you recommend I do? Would it be cheaper to just go to a weld shop and have them fix it? I would appreciate your input. And you will probably hear from me again since I am a rookie. BUT I LOVE MY CRUISER.! A: I assume that you are also considering replacing the tub. For a long term solution, it is tough to beat the final results of replacing the rusted and battered factory metal with a complete new unit. BUT, if the tub is basically sound, you can have spot repairs done in small areas for A LOT less than the total cost of a tub replacement. The downside is that you will find different spots in need of repair on a regular basis as the years go by. It all boils down to just how much you can afford to spend, how bad the tub really is, and how much work you want to do (both now, and later). Along with the offerings on the market in aluminum and fiberglass, there are also steel tubs available. Another option is to install factory style replacement panels. Properly installed, I doubt that you will have any complaints with any of these routes. In the real world, most of us who are lucky enough to have a '40 with a tub that is not already toast usually wind up repairing it as best we can, and dealing with any more rust that shows it's head when the time comes. Q: Bret Stastny wrote:What type of oil should I run? Currently I am running 10W-20 in the 2F I heard that the engine was made to 50 weight oil any truth to that?? A: I have never heard that the engine was "designed for 50w". The size of the internal oil passages doesn't support that theory either. That said, I do run 20w50 in engines that have a number of miles on them (over 100-120K). If you really are running 10w20 (I've never come across that particular combination in a multiweight), then that is too light. For non-artic temeratures. 10w30 is the lightest I would reccommend, with 10W40 being preferable. For weather other than subfreezing, I like the 20W50, and have had no complaints about this weight even in significantly colder periods. Q: Bret Stastny wrote: If I run the engine until it siezes can it still be rebuilt or should I plan on rebuilding it in the near future ( I am sure the second option is the best but also the least feasible right now.) A: Short of putting a rod through the side of the block, an engine can almost always be rebuilt. But the morte damage that is done before the rebuild, the more expensive and involved the job is. If you replace the bearings before they seize, then that is basically all you will have to do (and it can be done with the engine in the rig). If you drive it untils it does seize, you will also have to repair/replace the crank, and the engine will (realistically) have to come out of the vehicle. If you want to extend the life of the rotating assembly until you can deal with it, remember these items. High RPM is death for worn bearings. The strain on the rotating assembly increases geometrically with rpm increase. Cruiseing at 65-70 on the highway with stock tires is BAD for a tired engine. High torque demands put a lot of strain on the bearings too. Heavier oil is a good thing when you are dealing with increeased bearing clearances. Overheating puts a LOT of strain on the bearings too. With these in mind, and some gentle driving, you may see your bottom end last for an amazingly long time. The biggest problem, is that (assuming as before that the low oil pressure reading is accurate) there is now way to really predict when it will quit on you. And realize too, that a simple bearing replacement, while more involved for the do it yourselfer than some other repairs (and more expensive in a shop), is not a tremendously costly or difficult undertaking. Much less so than removal and refurbishing of the crankshaft. If the crank is not damaged yet (scored or under tolorance), then the parts will be in the area of $100 or less. It can be done in your driveway on a Saturday if you have a bit of mechanical experience, or can Shanghai a friend who does. Send your questions to Mark at cruiser@rockcrawler.com |
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