Build 1963 International Scout 80

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Finally time to start the suspension work!!! (then motor placement) then rip everything apart and MORE work!!!
 
So revisiting the injection on the 4.3 after chatting a bit with @matzell this morning. I took the intake apart to see if it's the cpi or the true mpfi. Looks like it's the mpfi version. I have a lot of the stuff to do a tbi setup, but if the mpfi is really that much better. I'll stick with the stock 2004 4.3 setup. (Which woody reccommemded years ago lol)
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Because Christmas is coming I picked up a set of gauge pods for the Scout.
Speedhut Custom gauges (yes I know 160 is a bit excessive..)
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Here is what the dash looks like (pic pulled from the internets)
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The main problem is that the opening in the scout dash is about 4.437" and the gauges are 4.15" bezel OD.

I have two choices, grab a couple 5" aluminum disks and make "halos" that can center the gauges (like this)
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Or weld up the dash and drill new holes.

The "adapters" will likely look like adapters. But the dash is perfect and I hesitate to modify it. It is just a flat piece of steel, so it's at least easier to make look clean..

Thoughts?
 
Damnit, they make a 4.5" gauge as well. That one will be almost perfect! Now to hurry up and see if I can edit the order!!!
 
Outstanding service from Speedhut.. I paid the difference ($24.00 lol) and have the 4.5" gauges coming!!

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Thinking about wiring.. I picked up the ecm for the 2004 mpfi 4.3. I'm now trying to figure out if the $600 it costs for a new harness is that much better than just reworking a stock harness. The cost savings will be high with a reworked harness, but having everything new to start with seems wise..

Thoughts?
 
I redid the original TBI harness for mine....worked for a few years, then had an issue i never traced out....gave up and ordered a new harness, much preferred...
 
So, if I go TBI, realistically how much power loss will I have over the MPFI system that the motor was designed for?

Finding a "new" harness for this motor is turning out to be either $750+ (and then you have to program the computer)..

What am I missing? Or am I just being a cheap bastard?
 
Rear suspension is in and truck is sitting on it's own (in the rear). Next weekend is the radius arm suspension for the front and possibly motor/transmission placement.

God I need a shop..
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Pondering the front suspension.

The suspension arms I'm using are essentially recycled from a 80 series Land Cruiser. The suspension bolt diameter is 18mm. The frame side of the radius arm is going to pass through the frame and then through the suspension link. This makes the bolt significantly longer than is readily available. Finding a 18mm bolt that is about 170mm (6.69") long is not easy, and they cost quite a bit individually.

I can drill the suspension bushings out to 3/4" (19mm) and get a 6.5 or 7" long, grade 8 bolt a lot easier, but it'll add another step when I replace the bushings.

Course, finding a 18mm sleeve for the frame may make this all a moot point..

Thoughts?
 
Started pulling parts for the motor swap and decided to see what the 1/2 cab looked like on it.

I dig it!!

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Finally some progress! I obviously need to trim the floor a bit for the tcase and lower the motor mounts a bit in the front.

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He is. He asked if there was something he could do while I’m up in ely this weekend. Work is seriously getting in the way of the build :)
 
Gotta go look to see if I can rent a magnetic drill press to drill the draw for the frame side suspension. I think united rentals or sheen has them. I don’t trust myself in making the sleeve straight for some reason.
 
You should be able to weld it straight once drilled....broomstick, etc to align....but yes, getting that first hole "close" is helpful :)
 

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