3.4L 5VZ-FE issues

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Blase

Spotter Required
Nov 10, 2020
34
Carencro Louisiana
Long shot but I thought I'd post here and ask!

I bought a 4runner buggy from a friend of mine. It had been sitting for 2-4 years. Ran GREAT before he let it sit. Was sitting outside with the hood up. Intake was clean nothing got in. I don't see anything in the Exhaust. Nothing that I've seen was open to the elements on the motor. ECM is in the factory spot so it could have seen water. There a security module that was sitting in a puddle of water under the drivers seat.

I put a new battery, dumped all the gas and tried to fire it up. No fuel pump even when I put 12V straight to it so I installed a new fuel pump. Once I did that the fuel pump would come on when cracking but it still wouldn't run. Checked fuel at the rail great clean fuel. Next I pulled a couple of spark plugs and check spark. Spark was great! I know its got air so I thought maybe the injectors are clogged from sitting. To check I got a set of Noid lights to see if the ECM was telling the injectors to fire (suspecting ECM or electrical issues). They are firing so I went ahead and replaced all the injectors.

Still won't start. Doesn't even pop or sound like its trying to run.

Had a buddy come over and tell me I needed to do a compression and leak down test. All 6 cylinders have ZERO compression. Nada Nothing! So we pulled the passenger valve cover to see if the valves where stuck and to look at their position for the leak down test. With all the valves closed we did a leak down on each cylinder on the passenger side. All had leak down past the piston. Also I haven't pulled the front timing belt cover but I did loosen it and pull it back to see if the belts had maybe rotted away. They are there, turning and appear to be in good shape.

Do I have stuck rings from sitting in every hole enough that it won't build enough compression and as such won't run?

is there anything electrical that could cause no compression?

Wiring on this buggy is a mess! Rats chewed some of the wires while it was sitting. For the most part it appears that the engine and body harness wires are fine. Only a very few as of now unused non essential body harness wires are chewed (lights and such). I have a cheapo Auto Zone scanner and it says its reading a code P1600. It will clear the code but it just comes back which tells me its talking to the ECM. I was sure my issue was electrical until we did he compression and leak down test. Now since I have spark and I know the ECM is telling the injectors to fire (plugs are wet wet and you can see fuel on top the pistons when trying to start) I'm not so sure my issue is electrical.

Any thoughts or help is much appreciated!! I'm a garage mechanic. I throw parts at it to try and fix the issue and that's getting $$$. Can this motor be saved?

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Hmmm thats odd. Did you drop some oil in each cylinder before you did the compression test, or were they dry? I dont a good running engine will lose compression after sitting for a few years. Something else doesnt seem right.

I had a 3rz ecu try to run a tacoma but wouldnt ever start it. Cracked open the ecu and found water had gotten in and ruined one of the boards. Id pull the ecu just to check and rule that out. If you see any corrosion or blown capacitors inside, take a pic of the ecu # and let me know. I may have one on the shelf.
 
I did not put oil in the cylinders but there was fuel in them I could see on top the pistons from trying to start it.

I did pull the ECM and look at it. Its all sealed up. Non of the connectors were corroded but the outer case has some rust. Had a bunch of leaves all packed around it that held moisture. I'll get a picture of it tonight and post it.
 
I wonder if all the cranking then finally getting the injectors working has washed all the oil from the cylinders. I'd try putting some oil on the tops of the pistons then redoing your compression test. Do you know if your getting spark?
 
I did not put oil in the cylinders but there was fuel in them I could see on top the pistons from trying to start it.

I did pull the ECM and look at it. Its all sealed up. Non of the connectors were corroded but the outer case has some rust. Had a bunch of leaves all packed around it that held moisture. I'll get a picture of it tonight and post it.
Pop the seal on the ecu and see if water got inside. One less thing to rule out.
 
I wonder if all the cranking then finally getting the injectors working has washed all the oil from the cylinders. I'd try putting some oil on the tops of the pistons then redoing your compression test. Do you know if your getting spark?
Yes It has very good spark. I'm going to soak all cylinders with marvel Mystery oil and try again after T-Day.
Pop the seal on the ecu and see if water got inside. One less thing to rule out.
I pulled the harness plugs and they were clean. I'll get some pictures of the ECU but it seems sealed shut.
 
Pull the plugs, add Marvel Mystery Oil to re-wet the rings. Let it soak for a few eays. Then compression test, wet.

I love that I was mid-type with the exact same plan you already have :)
 
Hmmm thats odd. Did you drop some oil in each cylinder before you did the compression test, or were they dry? I dont a good running engine will lose compression after sitting for a few years. Something else doesnt seem right.

I had a 3rz ecu try to run a tacoma but wouldnt ever start it. Cracked open the ecu and found water had gotten in and ruined one of the boards. Id pull the ecu just to check and rule that out. If you see any corrosion or blown capacitors inside, take a pic of the ecu # and let me know. I may have one on the shelf.
What i thought was the ECM was the ABS module. I'll have to go digging to find the ECM. The ABS was where the internet said the ECM would be.

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If its a factory dash, the ecm is behind the glove box. You need to pull the plastic box out and its up high against the bottom of the dash. At least thats where they are on the tacomas and 4runners of that generation.
 
I'm 99.9% that the issue is the timing is far enough off that it won't run or make compression. With it apart I can see that the cam timing is over 1/4 turn off. I've got all the parts to replace the timing belt, idlers, tensioner and water pump (timing belt rides on the water pump).

Issue I'm running into now is I a can't get the crank bolt out:mad:. I tried 4 different impacts(battery and air), the "strap trick" (wrapped around the crank pull to the frame) and Tried making a tool (flat bar and two bolts) like the interweb suggested. None of those worked.

So I soaked the bolt best I could and ordered a tool that's got more beef to it. If it doesn't come off with that and a long breaker bar (like 6') I'll have to get even more creative.

I did dig around and found the ECU behind/ above the glove box like you said. I didn't pull it yet to get any numbers. I want to get the timing right before possibly making more issues. Thanks for asking!! Glad you figured out your issues. TCI does suck these days it seems.
 
Try putting a 1/2" ratchet (or larger) on the bolt with a cheater pipe extension on the frame rail, then bump it with the starter. That should remove the bolt if a long cheater wont.
 
Issue I'm running into now is I a can't get the crank bolt out:mad:. I tried 4 different impacts(battery and air), the "strap trick" (wrapped around the crank pull to the frame) and Tried making a tool (flat bar and two bolts) like the interweb suggested. None of those worked.
Did you triple check the thread for the bolt, ie: LH or RH? The breaker-bar trick has worked for me, and "guarantees" that you are loosening the right way :)
 
Did you triple check the thread for the bolt, ie: LH or RH? The breaker-bar trick has worked for me, and "guarantees" that you are loosening the right way :)
I have goggled that multiple times Woody and read a number of articles threads. No one has given the size of the bolt or thread direction. The u tube video I watched he didn't say it was LH either so I feel like if it was LH that would have come up somewhere.

I'm super limited on time I get to work on it right now but I hope to have it running this weekend.
 
I was able to spend some time over the holidays working on the buggy and its now a runner. Timing was the issue. I guess from siting for a couple years dirt and such caked up the crank drive pulley and when I went to start it jumped timing causing all the issues I listed above.

While it is running its still got a couple issues that I could use some help with. :confused:

1st) I have to run it with the MAF (directly behind the air box) unplugged. If I plug it in it will start and run for MAYBE 5 seconds. Even once its warmed up and running if I plug it in it dies immediately.

2nd) its hard to start. Have to give it just the right amount of fuel. too little it won't stay running. To much it will pop and sputter and die.

3rd) its got a hesitation right off idle and takes a while to rev. (I assume this is because the MAF is unplugged).

I haven't gone back and checked compression now that its timed right. I also haven't checked the codes now that its running. :shaking::homer:

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