While you’re standing at the press, reverse the input gear
process above. Press the input shaft back into the stock bearing
making sure the original shims stay in place by using grease to
retain them. Install the new LoMax input gear onto the splines
of the input shaft and secure with the new retaining snap ring
provided in the kit.
the gap below the retaining ring with a feeler gauge. It should
be no more that 0.003”. If more, it will be necessary to
add shims to correct. Spec is 0.000” to 0.003”. Next,
install the special double-lipped seal into the input housing.
the new shift rails into the front output bearing retainer housing,
mount the housing in a padded clamp or vise to avoid damage to
the aluminum surfaces. First, pry out the old shift rail seals
and use a small hammer to tap in the new seals until they are
flush with the face of the housing.
the 2 new heavier detent springs (if you choose to do so –
read Road Testing comments first!) in the bores on top of the
housing. Place a detent ball on top of the spring in the left
bore, and insert the slotted end of the new shift rail, with the
slot vertical, (the rail with the large area removed for gear
clearance) into the bore on the back side of the housing. Push
the rail in until it contacts the ball and, while using a small
punch to push down on the ball, continue to push the rail forward
until exactly 4 11/16” is left sticking out of the housing.
Remember not to rotate the rail while doing this. Follow this
by inserting the shift interlock pills into the side bores as
far as they will go. Check to make sure they will not obstruct
installation of the second shift rail.
second detent ball on top of the remaining detent spring, and
with the second shift rail positioned with the slot vertical and
the detent slots towards the inside, push down on the ball as
before end push or tap the second rail until exactly 5 5/16”
remain out of the housing. Again, do not rotate the rails during
with a punch or similar object, rotate the second rail 90 degrees
counter-clockwise. You will feel the detent ball pop into place.
Then, rotate the first rail 90 degrees clockwise and tap it slightly
towards the rear. You should feel the detent ball pop into place.
Tap the first rail rearward one more
notch until it is even with the other rail. I used RTV to seal
the shift interlock bores in the side of the housing, or you can
use insert plugs if you bought a rebuild kit. I also know some
folks who use pipeplugs threaded into the aluminum housing. The
choice is yours. Set the housing aside for later.
Now, back to the press. Place one of the two 27 tooth LoMax gears
inside the case and insert the rear output shaft through it, making
certain you install the stock thrust washer on the shaft above
the gear. Support the shaft inside the case as shown in the photo
and press the bearing (#25880) onto the shaft until it contacts
the thrust washer. Make sure the gear can turn freely.
Put the remaining
27 tooth LoMax gear inside the case with the front output shaft
passing through it, place the bearing (#86649) under the gear
and press it on until it contacts the ridge on the shaft. Make
certain you support the bearing inner race so you don’t
damage the cage. Note: this is very difficult to do! Get some
help here holding everything while you do this or, if you’re
very careful, do what I did and use a punch and small hammer to
carefully tap this bearing onto the shaft. It took awhile, but
since you can’t see the bearing during the pressing operation,
I felt better using the punch.
new slider ring, 18-tooth LoMax gear and bearing (another #86649)
onto the front output shaft and press it until the bearing hits
the ridge of the shaft. Again, be careful not to press on the
cage of the bearing - just the inner race. Make sure the gear
will turn freely after installation.
the last slider ring over the clutch teeth of the rear output
shaft and install the front input gear assembly into the front
of the case, using RTV to seal it to the case. Install the 6 Allen
bolts, pulling the input assembly down evenly. Torque these down
to 10 Ft Lbs.
the rear output housing to the case after installing the original
bearing shims. Torque to 35 Ft Lbs. Then install the bearing (#15117),
install the new seal and then the output driveshaft yoke, torque
it to 100 Ft Lbs and verify end play of 0.002” to 0.005”.
If you use your old bearings, this measurement will probably be
correct, assuming it was right in the first place. If it is incorrect,
you will need to remove the housing and re-shim accordingly.
Install the bearing race (#M86610) into the rear bore (supporting
the rear of the front output shaft) of the case. Then install
the retainer plate and original shims. Don’t seal it now,
as we’ll need to check end play later and may have to re-shim
the shift forks in the case, big one first. Install the front
output housing, inserting the shift rails through the forks as
you go. Put some oil on the forks/rails to help facilitate this
process. Bolt the housing in place, and torque it to 35 Ft Lbs,
using RTV to seal it to the case. Install the 2 set screws for
the shift forks. Use a thread locking compound, such as Loctite,
to secure these screws and torque to 14 Ft Lbs. Now, you can verify
front output shaft end play using a dial indicator. It should
be between 0.003” to 0.006”. If you used your old
bearings, you’ll probably be OK, again assuming everything
was OK to begin with! With new bearings, you may need to re-shim
the retainer plate to gain the desired end play. When you get
it right, don’t forget to seal the retainer plate to the
housing using RTV and torque it to 35 Ft Lbs. Install the new
front output shaft seal and yoke and torque the nut to 100 Ft
Use wheel bearing grease or Vaseline
to install the needle bearings in the new LoMax idler gear. Don’t
be afraid to use as much as needed to hold the needles in place.
It’ll mix with the gear lube and not hurt a thing. Remember
to install the 3 spacers, with the thick one in the middle, and
make sure you install all the needles. Place the cross shaft into
the back of the case and, using grease or Vaseline coat one of
the thrust washers to hold it in place as shown in the photo.
Again using grease, place the other thrust washer on the opposite
side of the case, using your finger to keep it lined up as you
roll the idler gear into place. Line up the flat on the rear of
the cross shaft with the retainer and push the cross shaft through
the thrust washers and idler gear, making certain that all needle
bearings stay in place. If you used enough grease, this should
be fairly easy. Then, install the retainer and bolt to lock the
cross shaft in place, torquing it to 23 Ft Lbs.
Install the inspection cover, using the supplied gasket and RTV
to seal it, and install the speedometer gear assembly into the
rear output housing in the same orientation as originally. Torque
both inspection cover and speedo assembly bolts to 15 Ft Lbs.
it! With the exception of re-installing the transfer case and
filling it with the gear lube of your choice, you’re done!
Externally, it doesn’t look any different, but you’ve
just successfully installed your new LoMax 4:1 gears!
the road test and then the real fun; the off-road test!
THE TESTING --->>>