Metcalf Motorsports Flat Skidplate Kit
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By, CHAD CROWELL


Metcalf Motorsports Flat Skidplate Package

Motor Mounts

Metcalf's motor mounts are pure beef. We are talking U.S.D.A. Grade A! They are made of 3/16" steel, template cut and formed. Like the stock mounts, one mounting bolt is permanently welded into the mount, and another bolt is provided that screws into the welded nut on the bottom of the frame mount. All other necessary nuts, washers and bushings are also provided.

 

Metcalf raised motor mount.

 

 

 
Mount parts and hardware.

The mounts are essentially a piece of tube at the top that the bushing rides in. This tube is welded to two upright pieces of steel. Metcalf forms one longer piece of steel to create one of the sides as well as the bottom part of the mount.

What sets these motor mounts apart from those made by other companies is the center section. All other companies leave the center section open, while Metcalf welds one last piece of steel to the inside that bonds the two sides, the bottom, and the top tube. This will keep the weight and torque of the engine from eventually causing the two side pieces to bend outward. Excellent design.

 

 

 

The mounts are perfectly matched, heightwise. This is important to keep the engine balanced. The main bolt hole measured exactly 1.25" higher than the hole on the stock mounts. The welds were clean and consistent, and the black paint was well-applied. The polyurethane bushings (and metal bushing that rides inside of the poly) fit snugly.

You can see the height difference on the raised motor mount.

 

 

 

Installing the mounts was a piece of cake:

Securely support the engine with a floor jack.

Place a floor jack under the transmission. Be sure to use a flat block of wood atop the jack to spread the load a bit. Also chock the wheels for safety. Jack up until the jack is snug under the tranny.

Remove the large nut on the main bolt of the driver and passenger side motor mounts. Also loosen the four nuts that hold the transfer case to the transfer case skid plate. This will allow the drivetrain to move easier.

 

 

 
The stock motor mount.
Have a friend jack up the floor jack slowly until you feel the main bolts in the stock motor mounts loosen. They will slide right out with the jack at the right height. Remove the bolts.

Make sure the jack is secure. Remove the motor mount mounting bolts. For each mount there is one bolt that threads into a nut welded to the frame, and one nut that threads onto a bolt on each motor mount.

 

 

 
No mount installed.

Remove the stock motor mounts. Place the Metcalf mounts onto the frame in the stock locations. Because the mounts have a bolt welded in permanently, like the stock mounts, its easy to tell which way they go.

Loosely install the mounting nuts and bolts provided. Again, one loose bolt threads into a nut welded to the frame, and one loose nut threads onto the bolt welded to the mount.

 

 

 
Metcalf motor mount installed (after dark!)
Jack up the engine until the main bolts slide into the taller mounts. Install the main nuts. Use Loktite or similar thread locking solution.

Tighten the mounting hardware very snugly and, again, use Loktite.

Retighten the four transfer case skid plate nuts and remove the jack. Check all bolts again in a week.

After the install, crawl under the Jeep and check all frame or engine to body connections for stretching. Check hoses, cables, brake and fuel lines. Relieve tension as necessary.

The installation is very easy and should take less than an hour with a friend. I have had them in for almost two months, and through daily driving and two 4x4 trips, they have held up perfectly.

As expected, there is some engine vibration transmitted to the body. Its really almost unnoticeable after a few days. After a week I didn't notice it unless I was specifically thinking about it. And, you'll only feel it when the vehicle is sitting still. Once you begin to move, it is absolutely transparent.

 

Flat Skidplate Install

 

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