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Rock-Light
Installation
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Step
14
You have to
run one lonely wire through your firewall to get to your dash for
the rock-light switch. I started by checking behind my glove compartment.
That was a dead end. Then I noticed large rubber plugs in the firewall
above the bellhousing. I popped one of 'em out, and looked into
the other side... sure enough, an unobstructed means of running
a wire to the other side. From inside the tub, the port is up and
to the right of your steering column. If you pop out the plug from
the engine-side and poke your head around under the dash, you can't
miss it.
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Step
15
Its not like
you can just not use the plug. The manufacturers put that there
for a reason! So with my knife, I made two perpendicular slits in
the big rubber plug, fed the single wire through these slits and
in through the firewall, and put the plug back into place.
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Step
15 - Continued...
Pull the switch
wire through and let it dangle on your driver side floor-mat for
now. You have other things to contend with.
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Step
16
If you haven't
done so already, plug your switch wire into the relay and close
your hood once and for all! This was a beautiful moment for me,
primarily because I didn't have a relay diagram to work off of.
I've got a bald spot on my scalp from where I spent hours scratching
my head that night.
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Step
17
Prepare your
switch. Dashboard aesthetics mean alot to me, and I chose to use
an IPF light switch that comes with an unknown set of IPF lights.
The switch mounts to any dash surface using tape, and is a push-button
toggle. Its a pretty nice switch. I didn't have to use it and could've
made things alot easier, but... naaaah. You can pick one of these
switches up at your favorite ARB dealer for a few bucks.
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Step
17 - Continued...
The switch comes
prepared to plug into some wiring harness assembly made especially
for some particular IPF light.
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Step
17 - Continued...
<snip!>
We don't have an IPF light.
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Step
17 - Continued some more...
Strip your wires
and seperate them so that they look like this. That is of course,
if you are using this switch... most light switches that you can
get on a Calterm rack, or at Radio Shack come ready to go.
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Part
17 - Continued one more time...
After a little
bit of testing, I figured out which wire was which. The red wire
is your positive lead. This is the wire that is going to get connected
to the yellow wire that I ran through my firewall. The white wire
gets grounded, and the black wire is for a LED indicator contained
inside the switch. I did not implement this indicator, so I am grounding
this wire as well. As it turns out, doing so causes a green light
to come on in the switch to indicate that the rock light is off.
Alright, thats kinda backwards, but thats okay.
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Part
18
Connect the
red switch wire to the wire that you ran through the firewall. Twist
the white and the black wires together and connect them to another
wire which you are going to run to a grounding point. Use small
connectors, and don't forget to wrap individual connections in electric
tape. I speak from personal experience - dash shorts are scary.
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Part
19
Here is that
ground location I was telling you about for the switch. As it turns
out there is a legitimate grounding point across the pedals and
steering column, however I did not want my wire running across all
of those moving parts. I put a connector at the end of the ground
wire and bolted it down to the gas-pedal pivot bracket. This was
unobtrusive with any moving parts and I could easily conceal it
from that point and run it to the switch. Your switch is now wired!
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ON
TO PAGE 6
Mounting the switch and testing your new rock light...
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