<%@LANGUAGE="VBSCRIPT"%> ROCKCRAWLER.com - teralow for Isuzu

ROCKCRAWLER.com
teralow 3.07 for Isuzu

By Dr. Sean Michael

Discuss This Article Send this article to a friend!

Installation Process:
Preparation (1.5hr)
1. Disconnect battery
2. Elevate truck
3. Spray cross-member and skid plate bolts with rust breaker
4. Disconnect rear drive shaft at third member
5. Remove the transmission skid plate [see Skidplates on]
6. Drain transfer case fluid & transmission fluid, replacing both plugs. Check the magnet on the drain plug for any metal particles. [see Oil draining]
7. Disconnect speedometer cable
8. Remove rear driveshaft
9. Disconnect both shift levers
10. Disconnect front drive shaft (drop both ends to fully remove)
11. Remove the nuts from the transmission mount cross-member
NOTE: on the v6 equipped Troopers the starter doesn't bolt to the bell housing. Owners of 4cyl Troopers and other models should check for this.
12. Attach the transmission jack
13. Remove cross-member frame bolts
14. Remove catalytic converter and crossover Y pipe
15. Disconnect transfer case indicator & reverse sensors
16. Disconnect slave cylinder (see photo)

Removal (30min)
17. Remove bell housing bolts except top one (watch for hidden bolt on driver's side for dust shield-this one uses front access)
18. Attach chain from transmission lift
19. Remove final bell housing bolt
20. Carefully lower the transmission/transfer case assembly [see Removal 2]
NOTE: For late automatics with electronic four-wheel drive shifters, remove the front wheel drive electric shift. (See the Isuzu shop manual for the removal procedure.)

Disassembly (4hr)
21. Clean exterior thoroughly (it is critical to avoid introducing gunk into the transfer case assembly), plugging the output shaft hole.

teralow

22. Remove the nine bolts and the two stud bolts from the housing.
NOTE: Mark the location where the two stud bolts were removed for assembly later.
23. Use a small ball peen hammer on flanges at the seal to crack sealant and separate the transfer case from the transmission case (6-12 gentle to medium hard blows per side may be necessary). Tera recommends prying, however the latter method was sufficient to allow only very easy prying for the final separation.
NOTE: The two locating dowel pins and all the internal shafts (except the rear wheel drive shaft) stay with the front half of the housing. There will be no changes made on the rear half of the housing.

teralowteralow

24. Remove the snap ring on the input shaft.

teralowteralow

25. Pull spring & ball with magnetic rod from transfer shifter cavity
NOTE: Use caution as the hi-lo sync gear can fall off at this point.
26. Use a 3/16" wide by 3/32" thick tool to pry out the hammered-in portion of the nut at the key slot. Remove the nut.
27. Remove the high-low speed ball detent unit. (This is a 3/4" hex. fitting that is located on the outside of the housing inline with the shift rail shaft) Remove the hex, fitting, spring and ball. DO NOT leave the ball in the hole, as it will fall into the rail shaft hole when the shaft is removed.
NOTE: Do not remove the ball detent unit for the front wheel engagement shaft.
28. Pull main shaft ball bearing.

teralow

29. Relieve stake on end lock nut.
30. Remove end lock nut
31. Remove front outer (large) nut on front output shaft (exterior of case).

teralow

32. Remove hi-lo synchronizer assembly.
NOTE: The above requires a rather odd puller combination-in our case it meant purchasing just the right one for reach, spread and tip ends.

teralow

33. Release the snap ring that is under the gear on the idler shaft. This is the snap ring that holds the idler shaft to the housing. (This snap ring will remain loose around the idler shaft but will allow the idler shaft to move outward.)
34. NOTE: keys may fall out at this point
35. Place puller around (6) and NOT the syncro, which can be damaged.

teralow

36. NOTE: snap ring (11) may bind the shaft (24) from coming out enough to remove (6)
NOTE: The idler shaft may have to be pulled up slightly to clear the yoke's removal. If the roller bearing and the inner bearing sleeve pull up with the assembly, make sure that you do not loose the inner bearing sleeve's drive ball that is located in the input shaft.
37. Remove the idler shaft. Pull up by hand. [see Main shaft alone]
38. Remove the snap ring on the idler shaft.
39. Remove the ball bearings from the idler shaft.

Inspection (.5hr)
40. Check for wear on brass syncro ring (5)
41. Check all of the ball bearings for wear and smooth running.
42. Check low speed gear's roller bearing for pits and wear.
43. Check the inner bearing sleeve for pits and wear.
44. Make sure that all the gasket material is removed and remove all nicks and burrs on the mating surfaces of all the parts.
45. Press bearings off of the counter gear

Reassembly (4hr)
46. Screw the OEM nut on the input shaft and torque to 60 foot lbs. Stake the flange on the nut into the slot.
47. Press the #6305 ball bearing on the input shaft and assemble the snap ring.
48. Assemble the high-low ball detent unit. (Ball, spring and 3/4" hex fitting)
49. Check all shifting action and gear rotation.
50. Apply a minimal layer of gray silicone sealant on both parts of the housing [see Adding Sealant]. Assemble the housings and screw in the 11 bolts, torque to 50 foot lbs.
51. Lubricate the bearing surfaces on the idler shaft and press # 83 A4600 ball bearing and # 6306 ball bearing on the shaft to the shoulders.
NOTE: NO groove is provided for the rear of the shaft (i.e., 27).
52. Install the OEM snap ring on the idler shaft. (# 6306 Bearing).
53. Insert the assembled idler shaft in the front half of the housing.
54. If the inner roller bearing sleeve and drive ball has been removed, put some grease around the drive ball and place the drive ball in the hole in the input shaft that was made for it. Slide the inner roller bearing sleeve on the input shaft making sure that the drive ball is in its slot.
55. Assemble the roller bearing and the low speed gear on the roller bearing sleeve. Rotate the gear train to make sure that it turns free.
56. Tap out the roll pins (One inside the other) from the yoke and the OEM shift rail shaft. Assemble the OEM yoke on the shift rail TL 307-3 shaft
NOTE: The rotation of the yoke to centerlines of the ball detent must be the

teralow

57. Assemble the yoke and shift rail assembly into its hole, making sure that the vacuum activated shift shaft is correctly installed. Check to see if this assembly moves up and down freely.
Lift the yoke assembly up enough so that you can slide the shift ring on the yoke, drop the yoke so that the shift ring will engage with the gear.
58. Using snap-ring pliers or long needle-nose pliers, put the snap ring in its groove in the housing.
59. Press the splined drive shaft part onto the input shaft until it seats on the inner roller bearing sleeve. Rotate the gear train to make sure that it turns free.
60. Replace assembly on main shaft
NOTE: Be sure that the keys line up
61. Reattach "C" clip on front output shaft (11)
62. Reattach new main shaft nut at approximately 100 pounds of torque [see Reassembly]
63. Reattach snap ring (25) [see Wrestling C clip]
NOTE: The latter proved to be very tricky due to access issues resulting from the new large gear and how it precluded reaching the snap ring. This proved to be the most challenging part of the installation.
64. Assemble cases by gently tapping on flanges. Use caution regarding movement in the vent slide shield, which can move and impede the case's seal. This may require a few tries to get the shift rail to line up if you do not align it with the pin angle back in the case's hole (tunnel) for the same rail. [see Tapping cases together]
65. Until the detent spring/ball and 4x4 sensor are back in the assembly may not shift smoothly
66. Replace output shaft seal.
NOTE: Stud bolts to be installed where marked,
67. Bolt on the high-low shift unit.
68. Mount the front wheel drive shift unit. (See the Isuzu shop manual on how to install and to set the gear timing.)
69. Screw in the oil plugs.
70. Assemble in vehicle, add oil. torque all components to specifications.
NOTE: If boot on slave cylinder is torn this will be a good time to replace it.

Parts used:
Isuzu oil seal #8-97046-701-2
Isuzu transmission oil seal #8-94422-387-0
Isuzu front output shaft nut #8-94422-073-0
Isuzu main shaft lock nut #8-94422-072-1

 

TESTING AND CONCLUSION --->>>

 

 
Help spread the ROCKCRAWLER world!           Share on Facebook





©1997-2013 ROCKCRAWLER 4x4 and Off-Road Magazine. All Rights Reserved.

RockCrawler.com   -   IH8MUD.com