I pulled the motor from a still running wreck of a car. Pulling up to the office with this on the trailer turned a few heads.
There are a few companies that make adapters to turn these transverse mounted diesels longitudinal, but none that adapt this year to the 4L60E, so I took it upon myself to design an adapter. Using verified engine dimensions and models found online I designed the adapter using Inventor.
I utilized two 1/2" thick steel plates for the main adapter plates to allow me to use sendcutsend's laser cutting services. The crank and starter adapter where both machined out of 4140 by pcbway. By far, pcbway is the cheapest rapid prototyping service around.
3D printing the adapters allowed me to check my design and tolerances.
Here's the laser cut and machined parts all bolted up. I did hit a snag with the location of the starter. The starter centerline was 0.9mm too close to the centerline of the crank. That resulted in the bendix hitting the back of the flexplate, so a quick redesign was in order and a new set of plates.
Here's the current dilemma. I've been collecting parts for a few years now, so they're kind of a hodgepodge. The toy axles have 4.10's in them and the motor puts out 124hp/227tq. So the 10.3:1 atlas I had on the shelf made sense. Now that I've made the expensive decision to switch to portals I run the risk of having more gear than I need or never using the crawlbox. I do have options though.
Portal x R&P x 1st gear x tcase
4L60E first gear
1.92 x 2.5 x 3.06 x 10.3 = 151.29
4L60E second gear
1.92 x 2.5 x 1.625 x 10.3 = 80.34
So if I keep the 4speed and go with a high ring and pinion ratio I will have gearing options that put me in the normal final crawl ratio window. Is running second gear for the majority of climbs an issue and then using first gear if there's something dumb? I'm coming from a manual trans rig with 235:1 low, lol.
So far the consensus is to put a lower gear in the R&P and sell off the 4spd, but I like options. What do you guys think?
I guess I need more info.
What's the ratio of the crawl box and the atlas? meaning 2.62:1 for the crawl box and 3.8:1 for the atlas? as stated combined they are 10.3:1 but you don't have to run both in low.
I guess I need more info.
What's the ratio of the crawl box and the atlas? meaning 2.62:1 for the crawl box and 3.8:1 for the atlas? as stated combined they are 10.3:1 but you don't have to run both in low.
You're correct, 2.62:1 for the crawl box and 3.8:1 for the atlas. I contacted Advanced Adapters to see if it was possible to just pull the crawl box off, but the cases are different, so that's a no go.
So, yes I can run just the 3.8 and put something like 4.11's in the axles and achieve a final crawl ratio of 91:1 in first. I'll just have extra weight from the 4spd that won't be used.
Here's some interesting information when it comes to Jesse's 17" brake rotors. There aren't many wheels that fit. This is the official list of verified wheel fitment with the 17" rotors.
Wheels verified to fit without spacers:
Battleborn Crawl Spec Forged
Battleborn Sierra Flow Formed 5.5" backspacing (verbal confirmation)
Seats are next. I am running a +2 wide and tall seat for myself and a standard seat on the passenger side. Both are easily removed via mcmaster slam latches.
I only have video of the mcmaster slam latches working. I'll have to get a still photo of them later.
The radiator is meant for a VW Scirocco with both the inlet and outlet on the passenger side. My motor needs both on the driver side so I flipped this one upside down. I added a fill port, drain bung, and mounting punks and found a home for her. I designed the shroud and sent it over to SCS for cutting and bending.
To minimize metal cutting waste I made up a set of 1.25" mockup pieces and ran what I think will be the coolant lines. I'll leave these in place till a few other components find their home.
That u-joint at the transfer case isn't going to be happy for long with that angle. You might consider a slip in there before it causes issues. ...well, unless the angles match between both joints...hhhmm....curious to how that will end up.
Looking great tho, love the detail with the mounts and such!
That u-joint at the transfer case isn't going to be happy for long with that angle. You might consider a slip in there before it causes issues. ...well, unless the angles match between both joints...hhhmm....curious to how that will end up.
Looking great tho, love the detail with the mounts and such!
I worked on turning my 3D printed tubing jigs into metal this weekend. The red bends are 1D and the white are 1.5D. Your typical mandrel bends are 1.5D, so no pie cuts are necessary. Getting from the IC to the intake took the tight 1D bends and pie cuts.
Turbo to IC - 1.5D bends
Only one weld for this tube.
The IC to intake was too tight for the 1.5D bends, so pie cuts had to happen.
This is my current plan for the exhaust. I'm waiting on my budget back purge setup to arrive before going further with the stainless welds. The few that I did sugared on the backside, like everyone said they would.
I'm curious on the DS as well. I was always told that it would not work.....but if it spins free and you don't feel any tight spots seems like it will be ok!! My interest in it is personnel as mine is going to be a challenge too!!
With the fuel economy of the TDI I decided a smaller fuel cell would be safe. This is a five gallon cell with an extra gallon and a half sump. I cut the bottom of the cell out and added a flat plate baffle with a single hole. The thought is that on inclines I'll always have fuel covering the outlet.
I made some progress on some parts for @Boom 's rig. These charge tubes were originally going to be aluminum pie cuts, but I got a wild hair and decided carbon fiber would be more fun. So I figured out how to make hollow carbon fiber tubes with bends. If you search the internet you'll only find solutions for straight tubes.
I've been using Send Cut Send for a while now, and they continue to impress me with their prices and precision. This is my hydraulic fluid reservoir that SCS cut and bent for me. The parts fit exactly how I had them laid out in Inventor, which made life easy for welding them out.
I managed to find a spot for my comically large hydraulic fluid reservoir this weekend. The Scott's Offroad pump needs a one gallon reservoir. This tank is 1.6 gallons, so with a 2" air gap I will have 1.2 gallons of fluid.
SCS hardware makes live easy. I'll probably add a stopper nut on these bolts for safety.
The remote oil filter mount has built in studs as well.
I also added the MAP sensor bung to the intake tube.
I'm still waiting on my gas pedal to show up, but I started mocking up the brake pedal. I didn't find a reverse swing single master mount that I liked, so I'll build my own. I printed out a mockup unit to see how things line up.
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