Shrockworks Jeep TJ ShrockBars

By Shawn Pagan

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Installation on a '98 Jeep TJ:
Now comes the fun part. OK, the fun part will actually be testing them, so let me rephrase. Now comes the work part. In reality, other than drilling a few holes in the body (ok I heard a gulp from a number of you), the installation is fairly basic and simple.

The following recommended basic tools are needed for this installation:
  • Drill Motor
  • 5/16” drill bit
  • Eye protection
  • Gloves
  • 5/16” hex key
  • 1/2” open end, box end or socket with a drive
  • 5/16” open end or box end wrench (an 8mm can be used here)
  • Floor Jack with a long extension or block of wood (depending on how high your rig is)

Optional equipment

Thick shop towel or a heavy piece of cardboard for padding against the jack
Angle or die grinder

And while this installation can be done by one person, having a friend around to hold or balance things can make it go a little smoother.

First things first, we need to remove the factory flare extension (on Sahara / Renegade models you will also need to remove the plastic rocker panel cover). On my '98 this was done by loosening the three bolts and sliding the extension rearward and then pulling outward. The extensions will then pop off. Be sure to remove the three bolts. As a side note, I will tell you that I have also seen that some TJ flare extensions must have the bolt completely removed in order to remove the extension itself.

Kilby Steering Skid Plate
Stock "Sport" extension removed

Now take some time to clean the rocker panel area as thoroughly as you can. I would suggest using a mix of vinegar and water which will remove any adhesive and road tar, as well as any other debris that may have accumulated over the years. If you don’t have any vinegar handy you can use a glass cleaner.

Now position the sliders against the Jeep by having a friend or two hold them in place. OK, seriously, place the slider on your floor jack (use an extension if needed). Position the jack in the middle of the slider (front to rear) and just inside the outside lip. Keep in mind that the Shrockworks logo goes toward the front of the vehicle.

Here’s where a friend or two can help out. Using the jack, lift the slider into place. Be careful not to scratch the paint on the Jeep while getting the rocker properly positioned. I actually scratched my paint a little during the installation. Mine was an early set and Shrockworks has begun rounding off the edges of their current design, which should help to keep this from happening.

Kilby Steering Skid Plate
Kilby Steering Skid Plate

Using a jack and extension to hold the slider in place

Notice the white marks above the Sliders. These are actually scratches in the paint from my own carelessness during installation

Once you have the slider positioned perfectly to your liking, check to make sure the bottom is flush up against the lower part of the Jeep. There will be a slight gap at the very outside edge and it shouldn’t be able to move up at all.

Using holes # 2 and # 6 (one hole inside from the front and the rear of the sliders) as guides, drill two holes completely thru your rocker panels.

Insert 1” cap screws through these holes and place a fender washer then a lock washer and nut over the bolt from inside the Jeep. Hand tighten the nuts so that they help to hold but don’t lock them down tight yet.

Kilby Steering Skid Plate
Kilby Steering Skid Plate
Install the 1" cap screws from the outside
Use a ratchet on the inside nut to tighten

Go ahead and drill out the other 5 holes and insert the bolts along that side. When you have them all in and snuged down go ahead and tighten all the bolts along that side. It seems to work best if you tighten the nut on the inside with a socket or wrench while simply holding the hex bolt on the outside.

Note: On my installation we had to mount the sliders and then remove them in order to drill holes for my roll cage bolts to pass thru.

Kilby Steering Skid Plate
Kilby Steering Skid Plate
Drill out the front and rear side holes. Install bolts to hold the sliders in place.
Mark any special holes needed, remove the sliders and drill these out now.

Next, move your carpet or floor liners back (or take them out). Then lie under the Jeep and locate the six holes that you will use to guide you as you drill the holes for the interior plates. It is highly advised that you wear eye protection (or better yet, a face shield) and gloves during the entire installation, but especially here, as you will be lying on your back drilling holes straight above your head.

Using the six holes in the bottom of the slider as a guide, drill 5/16” holes completely through both walls of the double-walled floor. When you’re done be sure that you can see the ground through each hole from the inside of the vehicle.

Kilby Steering Skid Plate
Kilby Steering Skid Plate
Starting in the back, we drilled up through both floor panels

Continue toward the front

Place the backing plates inside the vehicle so that they line up with the six holes you just drilled. The smallest plate goes over the front two holes, the medium sized plate goes in the middle and the larger plate goes toward the rear.

Note: on the newer design the two rear plates are both “medium sized” – due to changes in the tub in ’03 and up Wrangler models. However, the plates are now laser=etched with F, M and B to signify “Front”, “Middle” and “Back.”

Insert the 2 ½” cap screws through the bottom of the slider and through the backing plate. Place a lock washer and nut over the screws and tighten them down. Repeat the process on the other side.

Kilby Steering Skid Plate
Kilby Steering Skid Plate
The middle plate laid in place
Notice the cap screws are installed from the bottom up


Kilby Steering Skid Plate
Kilby Steering Skid Plate
Passenger side installation
Drivers side installation
Kilby Steering Skid Plate
Kilby Steering Skid Plate
Notice how smooth the underside is. All the bolts (except for the temporary ones holding my rollcage in place) are either recessed or use cap screws.

That’s it. You are done with the basic installation. However, there are still a few things to consider.

1) As the sheet metal on most rigs is not entirely straight, if you have gaps you can seal the top with a bead of silicon. However, keep in mind that these sliders do extend slightly below the body so there is plenty of room to wash out any junk that may get collected behind them and they should not build up water or rust because of this “air gap.”

(2) If you value your carpet then I would highly suggest you use a grinder to cut off any bolt that sticks up into your passenger compartment. Make sure that the surface is smooth before you put your carpet or mats back down. You might even check with a local hardware store for plastic caps that you can put over the nuts themselves.

We made one final installation check - the all-telling jack test! Notice we have no problems lifting the TJ from the sliders.

Note: since we are not on the trail, we did use a pad between the Hi-Lift and the paint.

Kilby Steering Skid Plate
Kilby Steering Skid Plate
Full weight on the Hi-Lift
(the sway bars are connected)
Notice that the jack is actually on the slider bar

Now put your carpet back in and enjoy never having to worry about your rocker panels again!


On To The Real World Testing PAGE 3 --->>>

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