LS no TSTAT RAD in rear why?

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chaplinfj60

Spotter Required
Sep 22, 2020
45
marshalltown iowa
good morning all,

i saw last night on a group message that people were not using Tstat if the RAD was in the rear of the buggy and woodie you said the same thing. this seems like a good place to capture that info. and why it works.

and go. hahahah
 
I guarantee it varies with every vehicle....the recommendation I got was from Steve at SHO, and specific to the L67 motor. Thus far, I've experienced zero temp issues (outside of a fan relay that quit yesterday)

The key is experimenting with what works for your setup....line routing, in-tube coolant, distance, fan capability, location of thermostat, etc. Variables all over :)

Water pumps move water, but not fast. Steve's reasoning was the distance, and getting the cooler water from the rad into the engine "quicker" than it would if it was waiting for the t-stat to open.
 
and i also read about number of passes in the RAD make a different too, like LS was designed for 2 pass max and more passes the water pump wont keep up. ideally i want to keep it up front but willing to move to the rear. so i need to be prepared for sure.
 
I haven't tried no thermostat but I drilled six 1/8" holes around permitter of my thermostat to allow for air somewhere to go when bleeding and keeps a little flow going but still has the basic thermostat action. I haven't winter wheeled the rig yet so will see this winter if the extra flow is too much.
 
💯 agree with Woody. Variables. I am starting my 3.9l rear radiator with no T stat. If it doesn’t heat up to operating temperature I will add a restriction washer where the t stat goes—-If you could push the water through the radiator too fast it will run hot. Remember a rear radiator will only get fan speed air. Like 18mph. Power builds heat
 

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