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Double post!

I don't have an LTG but I have friends that are building buggies with them and a lot has to do with how they are set up. What converter, gearing, axle ratio, portals? I think the LTG Ecotec has around 250 HP and I would be willing to bet my junkyard 5.3 is close to that!

It should be a roller very soon.

lol, I strongly considered building a Hulse chassis! I am definitely building the Ironman car. I have several friends building Hulse cars right now though.

This is the info that is given for the Hulse Cars.

I have no idea what that graph means! I think you might be overthinking it though. When I bought my portals from Jesse he gave me the advice listed below. I would start there and adjust it to fit your chassis. - Typically 8° combined Caster and Pinion Angle -Front: 6° Caster, 2°...

You have made good progress, but those bars at the B pillar look like you are just asking to knock yourself out. I would look at those again.

Yes, those are awesome! I ordered his original with the easy entry doors.

I have an Ironman chassis on order. It should be here by June.

That ended up fitting pretty well. Nice work.

Yes, I do not want to cut the front frame to fit the portals. I figured I could sell the chassis now. I was afraid that I would cut it up and then not be happy with it, and the chassis would be junk at that point. I put a deposit on a chassis built for portals, so I will start a new thread...

Looks like a great build! Im in for the 3.9 700R4 tech. Did you do anything to refresh the engine?

A few portal buggies are using this chassis. Paul raised the frame rail around 3" or so for most of them. I planned on using my old axles, so I didn't bother having him change anything.

@woody, I agree! The way this is set up is also pretty close to the skid place. I can add some angle to the engine to raise it some, but I believe it's around 4 degree's already.

Mine does look a little lower! If you have a measurement, that would be great. How many inches is your transmission pan off the skid plate?

This picture is a bad example of what I am talking about. When I set both axles in place, there is around a 3.5" difference between front and back. Since the front can't go as high, the shock placement goes from the middle of the lower C to around the middle to get the shock where it needs to...

I have been working on the packaging for the portals. The rear will fit, no problem, but the front doesn't go high enough at full stuff. I will probably cut out the front frame and raise it around 3"-4" unless someone else has a great idea.

Thanks! It's a pain to package some of these parts in the chassis. It looks like you did a great job of getting yours to work. I plan to run AN lines for the coolant. I don't want to fight leaks. I have the same setup as yours in my current buggy. It would be a lot easier to package. The...

Awesome! Paul is great to work with. You will have to post a thread once you get started.

That could be an option as well. How wide are your front frame rails? Do you know what the separation of the upper links is?

Then, I started looking at axle placement and measuring for shocks and link placement. It looks like the front frame section is not high enough to get the portals to sit high enough at full stuff to get the shocks to sit where I want them without makeing it a monster truck. I was hoping there...

I have been working on getting the Drivetrain mounted. Paul at Bent Fab has a nice new cross-member with a new Atlas adapter. It's a super nice piece. After that, I mounted the engine, and we were on to the next thing.

I finished up welding the chassis. That took way longer than expected. It's pretty typical for builds. The table we have is too big to mount the drivetrain and suspension on. I bought a table from Busted Knuckle on Black Friday. It's a decent table for the price, but I had to modify the...

Awesome! We are thinking of stoping on the way to Trail Hero next year.

I want to check out RMR. Is it worth an 11-hour drive?

The chassis is about 50% welded. I couldn't resist putting an axle under it.

I finished up the chassis this weekend. I am purposely leaving out the door bars so I can get in and out easily while building the interior. I have lots of welding in my future, and we can start mounting the drivetrain. I am excited to move on to the next step!

Yes, I can add more separation at the axle end. I was running the numbers off the buggy I measured. It makes sense about the 25% rule. When I talked to Jesse when I bought the portals, he said they try for 8" of vertical separation. He said anything higher than that raises the roll center...

I am planning out the suspension on my buggy. I got a bunch of numbers of a SHO buggy in a Kalif chassis, and I put them in the 4-link calculator. I am unsure if the portals through off the calculator, but I don't think this should work well based on everything I have read. Are there any hard...

I am not sure. I will have to defer to Woody!