24' Aluminum trailer

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woody

eternal noobie
Staff member
Oct 12, 2010
1,846
56
Toquerville UT
So, I blinged out this fall with a new 24' aluminum 10,000# car hauler...should be perfect for the FZJ80 and the Teryx4 (barely) and plenty of room for the FZJ80 and the RZR.

Unfortunately, a combination of communication problems and design issues meant changes were due...simply put, the trailer balance is WAY off (I can lift the tongue when empty with one hand), the tires contact the fenders with only a 6000# load, and the the axles aren't even close to centered in the openings.

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Following a trip from WI to Vegas and back, it was time to dig in and start modifying...today's project was primarily sawzall work with a LONG blade...cutting off the fenders. Also pulled the existing steel coupler to install a more HD and longer version.

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The plan? Relocate the forward axle behind the current rear axle...should allow the wagon/rear load to be nearly centered over the axles and the forward weight to provide enough tongue weight for easy towing. Last thing tomorrow is cutting off the spare tire carrier and prepping the wiring to transport the trailer to a friends to have the new axle mounts tig'd on (I'll spool-gun the fenders)

ah, the joy...
 
Looking forward to the way this turns out. Curious, you do the math on how much more weight will be on the tougne after the axle is leap frogged?
 
I haven't done the math, just used a tape measure to determine position.

With the wagon close to centered over the trailer axles and the T4 on the front, it should balance out nicely.
 
A trailer thread... from YOU. Really!!??? Oh the humanity of it all.

38,000 miles has to take it's toll... at least you're not shipping the rig to events and flying in.
 
More progress done...first, the new coupler is on...

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Next, some tongue weight calculations...at the setback jack, 500# (180x3) or so...at the coupler, 380-400# (130x3)...perfect for a 1600# trailer
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I would like to see more pics of the finished trailer. I am curious to see what you did to fill in where the front axle used to be .
Looks good :cool:

Howie
 
I would like to see more pics of the finished trailer. I am curious to see what you did to fill in where the front axle used to be .
Looks good :cool:

Howie
Haven't set a final plan quite yet...but the spacing is PERFECT to mount two 5-gallon jerry cans on each side...I need to weld up mounts for the fenders this week, plus get the weight dist hitch mods done...time to practice with the alum spool gun :)
 
A spool gun is on the list of next tools. I've wanted to be able to weld aluminum for a while now!
 
The Curt Manufacturing weight distributing hitch brackets are rounded...and the aluminum rails are quite square...so some 1/4" thick alum plate was welded to the top of all three tongue rails (middle too, since I'm planning a alum diamondplate platform in the future)

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All things considered, I was pleased with my aluminum spool gun work...the Miller 185 was "just" enought power to burn it in nicely...

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Next up, removable fenders...the quick/dirty option was two 1-1/2" angles welded to the existing fenders, and two thru-drilled 1/2" holes with bolts/nylocks for holding them down...surprisingly sturdy, tho more bracing will happen down the road...

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And finally, the new 15,000# Curt dist hitch and sway control installed...still need to determine the exact height, but the 18" weight distribution shank combined with the longer coupler should extend everything sufficiently for camper clearance. (shank rated for 14,000#, factory hitch rated for 12,000#, trailer will only be 10,000# or less gross weight)

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Last up tomorrow is wiring the fender marker lights and brake wiring to the "new" rear axle...easy enuf :)
 
So, just because, I pulled the trailer out of the shop using the wagon...tongue weight dropped the rear about 1"...perfect :) Will be nice for light/short hauls at events.

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First step is hook everything, and then try a FULL turn with the pickup/camper/trailer....MAGICALLY, everything clears (tho, just barely). Obviously, u-turns are not on my short-list with this setup, but it's nice to know mistakes on my part shouldn't be expensive.

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Hooked and ready...trailer is level, everything lines up as it should. Curt weight dist setup is not yet hooked up, so this would be final ride.

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The stock camper steps have GOT to go...simply, a pain in the butt...they are so tight when backing up to connect the trailer that the coupler latch has to be down, and then trailer height still needs to be messed with to align it up...plus, the only way to hook everything is laying on the ground (which given today is +2, that's not a great idea)...so, camper steps will be gone and I'll modify up my set of aluminum ones to be the right height and they'll be removable/storable easily enough.

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Trailer ideas are not quite done...I'm searching now for an aluminum tool box that will be positioned in the now vacant wheel well area on the drivers side...I've found one that is 8" deep and 18" high, but it's only 19" long...would like something in the 24" range if I can find one.

The passenger side wheel well area will get some alum angle welded in, sized to fit two 5gallon fuel cans :) Should fit perfectly, and it will be nice to have some available fuel on board without a custom deck/tank.
 
So I picked up a 24"l x 10"d deep tool box...turns out, I really need a 9" deep to keep it inside the trailer deck...10" works with the fenders, but would prefer it not stick out from the deck...believe I'll contact the company and see if they can make one that's 30"l x 9"d x 12"h

Today's short project was mounting the brackets for the Curt Mfg weight dist hitch and a treadplate tongue deck.

I opted to drill/tap the trailer frame for the brackets, tap thru the bracket to ensure the bolt would thread from the bracket into the frame, and then use a jam nut to lock it down. The .100 aluminum treadplate was then cut/notched and has been drilled to use 1/4"-20 stainless screws to mount it.

Outta work :)

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I have a r and r alum trailer, I was about to have a custom built one done locally and I found r and r just listed one on ebay with drive over fenders and full width deck. I love it. Its a 20'. I put a tool box on center front and had my local shop build me two boxes for each side and some short ramps that fit in my boxes so I dont have to mess with those long monsters mounted on the front.
 
So, just because, I pulled the trailer out of the shop using the wagon...tongue weight dropped the rear about 1"...perfect :) Will be nice for light/short hauls at events.

View attachment 3738

First step is hook everything, and then try a FULL turn with the pickup/camper/trailer....MAGICALLY, everything clears (tho, just barely). Obviously, u-turns are not on my short-list with this setup, but it's nice to know mistakes on my part shouldn't be expensive.

View attachment 3739
Hooked and ready...trailer is level, everything lines up as it should. Curt weight dist setup is not yet hooked up, so this would be final ride.

View attachment 3740

The stock camper steps have GOT to go...simply, a pain in the butt...they are so tight when backing up to connect the trailer that the coupler latch has to be down, and then trailer height still needs to be messed with to align it up...plus, the only way to hook everything is laying on the ground (which given today is +2, that's not a great idea)...so, camper steps will be gone and I'll modify up my set of aluminum ones to be the right height and they'll be removable/storable easily enough.

View attachment 3741

Trailer ideas are not quite done...I'm searching now for an aluminum tool box that will be positioned in the now vacant wheel well area on the drivers side...I've found one that is 8" deep and 18" high, but it's only 19" long...would like something in the 24" range if I can find one.

The passenger side wheel well area will get some alum angle welded in, sized to fit two 5gallon fuel cans :) Should fit perfectly, and it will be nice to have some available fuel on board without a custom deck/tank.
Nice setup, Host makes a big Camper. curious is the truck a 350 or a 450 ?
I have close to the same setup and did a lot of research to keep it safe/ legal My truck has a 14k GVWR with a10k RAWR.
Fully loaded wet my camper comes in at just under 5k leaving me about 1.5k for trailer tongue weight.
I don't use a weight distributing hitch, no sag, the ride is really solid and stable.
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Nice setup, Host makes a big Camper. curious is the truck a 350 or a 450 ?
I have close to the same setup and did a lot of research to keep it safe/ legal My truck has a 14k GVWR with a10k RAWR.
Fully loaded wet my camper comes in at just under 5k leaving me about 1.5k for trailer tongue weight.
I don't use a weight distributing hitch, no sag, the ride is really solid and stable.
The Ram was a 3500. Worked well for our needs for 5 years, but now we flat tow the 80 behind a 40' diesel pusher.
 
I entertained the idea of a diesel pusher, in the end I decided it was to big for a lot of the places we go and it's had to find them with a 10k or more tow rating.
10k towing is easy....but more isn't. We definitely limit ourselves somewhat with the size, but have put over 30k miles on it over two years, so it's getting used.
 
I should have said in the used market, to go diesel pusher I was in the used market. With the Truck I was able to buy a new truck and a used camper.
You know we all like Pictures, I would like to see pictures with the 80 in tow, How's it working out flat towing the 80 and what are the preparations for flat towing.
In all fairness, I have been a regular player over on Mud the last few years ( if you have not already figured that out ) It's a little different over here, I did not realize at first that this was a 10 year old thread 😉
But on the other hand I get to chat with celebrities🙂
 
Our 07 Phaeton was a great buy 👍🏽

Flat towing the 80 is easy....transfer case in neutral, turn the ignition key to run, then back and DO NOT remove....keeps the steering unlocked.
 

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