Rear steer build.

[JPhillips]

Who can school me on a rear steer axle. It’ll be for a 63 scout with a supercharged 5.3,th400,atlas and 42s. The rig will definitely be on the heavier side of things. I’m wondering if a 60 would hold up or if I should do a 14 bolt instead? I don’t wanna have to worry about breaking it every trip out. Any help would be awesome.

 

[woody]

Are you planning to rear steer a full body/full frame rig? Space is a premium, and modifying the frame/body to allow clearance will be a challenge....

Bigger the better when it comes to a full body rig....14b definitely.

 

[JPhillips]

Are you planning to rear steer a full body/full frame rig? Space is a premium, and modifying the frame/body to allow clearance will be a challenge....

Bigger the better when it comes to a full body rig....14b definitely.

Yeah it’ll be full body with the stock ih frame just modified. Want to keep a body and cab because of Washington weather and snow wheeling. I’ll narrow the back end if I need for clearance. Think it’s worth building a housing or just buy one?

 

[woody]

Yeah it’ll be full body with the stock ih frame just modified. Want to keep a body and cab because of Washington weather and snow wheeling. I’ll narrow the back end if I need for clearance. Think it’s worth building a housing or just buy one?

Run the numbers to see if it's worth it....I chose to purchase.

You'll need to narrow the frame rails and body to match the front....lots of work....and you still have all the trail-limits of a full body rig.

 

[Ghetto Fab]

14bolt or 70, best to keep it low pinion. The better question is what are you doing for shafts, joints and knuckles? It seems a 14bolt/70 with 05+ F550 outers would probably solve most of your issues.

 

[JPhillips]

14bolt or 70, best to keep it low pinion. The better question is what are you doing for shafts, joints and knuckles? It seems a 14bolt/70 with 05+ F550 outers would probably solve most of your issues.

Plan was to do either superduty outer or king pin and branik shafts.

 

[JPhillips]

Run the numbers to see if it's worth it....I chose to purchase.

You'll need to narrow the frame rails and body to match the front....lots of work....and you still have all the trail-limits of a full body rig.

I’d love to do a buggy but with how much bad weather we have here it’d suck to wheel anytime except summer and even then it gets super dusty. I probably will buy a housing because the cost isn’t much more then buying all the parts and doing it myself

 

[whiterhino]

I still wonder how you seal the axles at the dif on a 14bolt. I tried some of those push in seals on my 9" without success.

 

[JPhillips]

I still wonder how you seal the axles at the dif on a 14bolt. I tried some of those push in seals on my 9" without success.

Crane makes seals that replace the preload adjusters with a seal. Revolution 30/35 Spline 14 Bolt Inner Seal Kit

 

[Ghetto Fab]

Crane makes seals that replace the preload adjusters with a seal. Revolution 30/35 Spline 14 Bolt Inner Seal Kit

Thats pretty neat! I would think you'd still need to seal the threads of the adjuster somehow(RTV?). It would be interesting to see how well it worked.

I know a lot of people use the seals it seals, but I keep hearing mixed feedback on how well they work.

I always imagined just machining a slug that slipped in that would accept a standard 35 spline seal. Maybe tack the slug in and RTV the rest.

Kevin

 

[woody]

I know a lot of people use the seals it seals, but I keep hearing mixed feedback on how well they work.

The SealsIt stuff is what's used on the portal housings....I had one install failure (two of three big o-rings pinched on one seal) but have had zero issues otherwise. I think the key is properly prepping the housing tube so nothing can catch a seal on install (burrs and such), and properly lubricating the axle shaft splines to minimize chances of a seal tear when they get installed. I failed on housing prep.

 

[Ghetto Fab]

The SealsIt stuff is what's used on the portal housings....I had one install failure (two of three big o-rings pinched on one seal) but have had zero issues otherwise. I think the key is properly prepping the housing tube so nothing can catch a seal on install (burrs and such), and properly lubricating the axle shaft splines to minimize chances of a seal tear when they get installed. I failed on housing prep.

Are those installed from the inside, diff side, or the outside, cv joint side? I've seen people install the seals it seals from the axle end and I can't imagine that working with u-joints.

 

[woody]

Are those installed from the inside, diff side, or the outside, cv joint side? I've seen people install the seals it seals from the axle end and I can't imagine that working with u-joints.

Diff side, since the 8" or 9" center drops out easily. D44/60s require outside install since the carrier doesn't remove separately.

9" setups have had issue with the axle catching the seal during install since it resides SO close to the side gears....gets pinched. Hence the greased splines and being very careful

 

[SteerAndStuff]

I used the Crane carrier adjuster seals on my last rig I built a rear steer 14 bolt for. Never leaked any and the seals do some with a thread sealant you smear on prior to your backlash setup. I setup for only just over 30 degrees and some ackerman rear steer since I had a rear bench seat to clear as well. 30 degrees is still much better than 0 degrees.