Build First buggy build.

[badgeroo7]

what hardware are you upgrading?

IMO, the strongest knuckle/steering setup is Front Range keyed stuff. I had zero issues with it on my FToy. The balance of all the hardware was from Front Range too, their ARP knuckle/hub kits.

I have had good luck with the marlin 25mm upgrade and arp studs for the steering.

Now that the locking hubs are in the trash I want to install the rcv driveflanges.
I want to redrill the hubs and get rid of the hub studs and go with bolts. That’s what I want to upgrade.

 

[badgeroo7]

I have had good luck with the marlin 25mm upgrade and arp studs for the steering.

Now that the locking hubs are in the trash I want to install the rcv driveflanges.
I want to redrill the hubs and get rid of the hub studs and go with bolts. That’s what I want to upgrade.

what hardware are you upgrading?

IMO, the strongest knuckle/steering setup is Front Range keyed stuff. I had zero issues with it on my FToy. The balance of all the hardware was from Front Range too, their ARP knuckle/hub kits.

I read somewhere that you drill out to 3/8” and tap to 7/16-20 fine thread but not sure. Just needing some confirmation.

 

[Ghetto Fab]

Yes, drill and tap for 7/16-20 fine thread bolts. I just did this on my 4runner. I haven't heard of anyone having any issues after going with the 7/16 bolts. Plenty of meat to drill and tap in the hub. I went and just got 1 1/4" long hex head bolts from the hardware store, but you could use socket cap screws or spend the money on ARP bolts also.

There is the issue of the bolt head overlapping the wheel bore and making it hard to get the wheel on. I haven't had any issues with my steel rims. I did try to torque the bolts so that most of the bolt heads have a flat side flush with the side of the hub.

 

[badgeroo7]

Yes, drill and tap for 7/16-20 fine thread bolts. I just did this on my 4runner. I haven't heard of anyone having any issues after going with the 7/16 bolts. Plenty of meat to drill and tap in the hub. I went and just got 1 1/4" long hex head bolts from the hardware store, but you could use socket cap screws or spend the money on ARP bolts also.

There is the issue of the bolt head overlapping the wheel bore and making it hard to get the wheel on. I haven't had any issues with my steel rims. I did try to torque the bolts so that most of the bolt heads have a flat side flush with the side of the hub.

Sweet thank you man. I hope to have some time this week to get them done. I hit up a buddy that lives in Utah now about how he did his years ago and he recommended the same thing. He even drilled and tapped where the dowels went to the same as the rest. Not sure I need to go that far. I’ll drill out for a larger dowel pin that came with the flanges and do the 7/16-20.
Score for the day! Rcv got back to me and they are warrantying the stubs, should have those in a week or so.

 

[badgeroo7]

A clean buggy is a happy buggy. I said screw the rcv flanges and larger hardware after I completed them. Went with TG hubless hubs instead. Going to sell the hubs, hardware and flanges. I must say it’s a slight peace of mind. Been on a few rides ands really impressed with what I have built. More time in the seat is all I need. Only flopped it once so far.

 

[woody]

A clean buggy is a happy buggy. I said screw the rcv flanges and larger hardware after I completed them. Went with TG hubless hubs instead. Going to sell the hubs, hardware and flanges. I must say it’s a slight peace of mind. Been on a few rides ands really impressed with what I have built. More time in the seat is all I need. Only flopped it once so far.

Suspect you'll like the TG hubless setup, have heard good things about it

 

[chaplinfj60]

i was on a #4200 rig and ran the long field alxes, drive flanges and six shooters all from trail gear, on 38s and they never failed, 3 or 4 years running them and have been sold and the new owner is using them now. so i think you will like the flanges

 

[badgeroo7]

Suspect you'll like the TG hubless setup, have heard good things about it

the flanges are sweet. But now the weak link is the rcv 300m axles. I’ve broken more stubs, bells, stars, and an inner shaft! It’s been fun calling rcv every week. Rebuilt the axles back to new, yanked the engine,trans and case and sold it. Now building another chassis with the help of Kramer and Kevin. Done with yota stuff for now and 39 stickies

 

[woody]

the flanges are sweet. But now the weak link is the rcv 300m axles. I’ve broken more stubs, bells, stars, and an inner shaft! It’s been fun calling rcv every week. Rebuilt the axles back to new, yanked the engine,trans and case and sold it. Now building another chassis with the help of Kramer and Kevin. Done with yota stuff for now and 39 stickies

Yeah, keeping Toyota RCV's together with sticky's is a challenge. I usually cracked one every year. Even having Toyota's for 30 years and knowing their limits...just hard to avoid.

 

[badgeroo7]

Yeah, keeping Toyota RCV's together with sticky's is a challenge. I usually cracked one every year. Even having Toyota's for 30 years and knowing their limits...just hard to avoid.

Yes sir it is. Same here with Toyota’s, been on them for 20+years with a 1.3 and stickies. No power to break them. A tuned 2.4n/a and 39’s spit them out like a bad taste . Time for bigger parts.