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Had a few customers remind me that not everyone is on social media and those that aren’t might want to check out some of the builds that are going on in the Hulse Engineering shop. I’ll try to check in on here from time to time and share some of my personal and customer cars.
Here’s a roller that went out to a customer at the beginning of the year. Hulse Engineering 3 Seat Trail Chassis, Spider 9/JHF Portals, 16” King 2.5 Air Shocks, 42” BFG’s
3 Seat Trail chassis fully welded out for a customer. This one got link tabs, shock tabs, winch mount, and fuel cell
Customer built car. I supplied Matt with a welded and tabbed out chassis and he built this amazing car in just a few months and has been wheeling it multiple days week all year long in Sand Hollow.
This is the 3 Seat Trail chassis, 8” JHF Portals, 3.9/700r4/d300, 16” ADS Air Shocks, 42” BFG’s
Matt kills it in this car, check him out on IG @__matty.j__
eternal noobie
Staff member
I always drool over Matty's build and how well it works. Plus, he actually keeps up with cleaning and touchups
Love the chassis and all your builder parts!
What a GREAT looking chassis and parts! Truly works of art.
In the below photo, where the lower front links mount to the chassis. Is this done so the trans can be removed out the bottom? VERY VERY cool if that's finished. All the other pictures have a traditional tube all the way across so I thought id ask.
What a GREAT looking chassis and parts! Truly works of art.
In the below photo, where the lower front links mount to the chassis. Is this done so the trans can be removed out the bottom? VERY VERY cool if that's finished. All the other pictures have a traditional tube all the way across so I thought id ask.
The front lower link cross tube starts as a full tube all the way across on every chassis, this ensures it's perfectly straight and true. After the chassis is fully welded and tab'ed out I recommend cutting the section out between the tabs which allows the entire drivetrain to drop 1.75" lower and have a lower COG, this allows the option of the trans to drop out the bottom also. There's a bunch more support tube and a trans crossmember that aren't pictured in that picture that add a ton of structure back to the front link mounts in every direction once everything is in.
Another customer built car. Jeremy purchased a DIY 2 Seat Trail Chassis kit and some DIY tab kits and built this sick car.
Some insight into how much work is put into designing these chassis in CAD, having full Jigs designed and built, and how each chassis is fixtured and assembled, then pulled off the jig and fully welded out. The nice thing about having these all CNC cut, bent, and etched with part numbers and tube junction outlines is that even without a jig they are incredibly easy to assemble like legos with just a flat surface to build off of and stay square and true. These pics are of the v1 chassis which had the longer (uglier, lol) nose, they all have the shorter much sleeker nose now.
Laser cut and CNC bent panels, makes life so much easier when you smash a body panel and a fresh one is just a click away
I got tired of the PSC clamps for the 3” rams that are way too tall and have no positive stops for side to side movement along with relying on just the shear strength of the long mounting bolts to hold the ram on.
I designed these clamps that lower the ram 7/8” lower than the PSC clamps, have integrated stops for side to side movement to remove all shear stress off the clamps, and have steel bases so the can be directly welded to your truss or frenched into the housing for maximum clearance. They also use 1/2” studs and ARP 12pt nuts instead of cheaper bolts.
Ram mount/truss/skid I designed for Trail Gear 9” housings and JHF Portals. Designed to use my 3” slammed ram clamps for maximum clearance and to tuck the ram as close to the housing as possible.
Love your innovation
Please keep it up!!
I want to build a Hulse car
Love your innovation
Please keep it up!!
I want to build a Hulse car
Thanks!
is this clamp cut into the housing? Can you post a picture of what the inside of the diff looks like?
is this clamp cut into the housing? Can you post a picture of what the inside of the diff looks like?
View attachment 17418
Yes, the clamp is recessed into the housing, then you cut the clamp 1/8" past the inside of the housing and weld it in inside and out. I don't have a pic of the inside.
