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A friend of mine started to build a chassis for a guy and he backed out. So I went and looked at it and took some measurements and decided for the price it would work for my set up. originally set up for a Toyota drivetrain. Mix of 1.75”and 1.5” dom and herew. Pulled the trigger in august of 2021.
The yota stuff got pulled for my set up.
2012 2.4 ecotec
904
Atlas 3.8
Yota axles f/r
4link f/r
39 reds.
The start of motor mounts.
JHFab came through with the adapter for the 904.
Bolted to the mock-up trans to start placement.
I believe at this point it’s all going to work out.
Got shocks and links started. Running 14” fox racing coil overs f/r.
Setting the wheelbase around 108,109” ordered links from wide open design. Started on a swaybar tube.
Tank mounted in, starting to dig it.
Finished up the front end mock up. Through the tires on it for last looks. Wide open designs again for aluminum links.
2” lowers 1.5” uppers all around.
We tore it down for finish welds and a little primer to keep the rust off it. It’s humid in Georgia. Took it home to start the next phase of everything.
Cbm power steering bracket installed with tc style 1600psi pump. Clearance is clearance right
, really don’t like the 90* fitting on the supply side so looking for different options.
To keep moving today I started making the trans tunnel best I knew how. Some 3/4” angle ftw here. Then arts and crafts with cardboard and templet paper to transfer onto some 1/8” aluminum. Playing with shifter location and switch panel. Nice little switch panned but bulky and more switches than I need. Had it laying around. Probably won’t use it.
Ran into a little issue with the rear end.
Coil cups hit the chassis at full droop. So out came the porta ban and made some plates to fill in the corners. Hard to believe that was missed before final weld. Again my first build. Still learning.
The rear mounted rad was huge. Basically a Cherokee sitting behind me. Pulled it out cut out the mounts and sold that huge thing. Went with a much smaller rad behind the driver seat. Wow at the visibility that created.
Finished up the lower mount for the radiator, now to tig on some aluminum brackets to the rad for the top mount.
Decided I didn’t like the dash bar and wanted to add some bracing behind the seat. Playing with arts and crafts again. Trying to get an idea of a firewall/ footwell.
Went with the 1320 ram style as header. Cut the flange off and welded on vbands. Exhaust is fully mocked in. 2.5 collector to 2”ss exhaust all the way out.
Wanted to keep the Sami hood off the little Sami that could. It had seen better days so one bored afternoon a fixed it. I’m no body man or dent wizard but I think it came out ok for a block of wood and a few hammers and some heat.
So the hood didn’t fit like I wanted it to. Didn’t want to add a cowl and I thought the front end was to long. Portaban to the rescue again. A few hrs later and redid the front to fit the hood
. Yes I know the hood is going to get smashed. But for know it works.
Went from arts and crafts to the aluminum interior panels. We do not have a metal brake in the shop so the welding table, clamps and a thick piece of aluminum to sandwich my material to the table. Dead blow, and brute force got all of them done. Compound angles are a pita but with my great buddy Kremer he walked me through it and knocked it out together. Not bad for some boys from Lilburn Georgia.
Going to try something different with the lightbar on the ram clevises. We always light up the trees when climbing. Lights never where you want it. Might get smashed, might not. I like the idea the old tucker cars had. Light moves in the direction you are steering.
Trying out a Sherpa 4500lb winch for suck down duties. It will hide behind the light bar.
Finally got to the point of tear down again. Needed to weld in tabs and nuts for the ar skid plates. Not fun to drill through or counter sink by hand. But a long two days and they are finished. Even put it back to a roller.
Made the call to Steve Humphrey for one of his super clean harnesses. He does top notch work and customer service is amazing. Zero issues. Started finish assembly.
The list is getting smaller and smaller. Weighed it and made the call to wizzo for some springs. Was afraid I wasn’t going to get springs because it’s so light. But magnitude had the ones on the shelf I needed. Getting closer.
Finally drove it on the trailer on 3-11-22. Waiting on the rain to stop for the first test ride I got bored and painted the hood.
Turned out pretty good to get beat to death lol.
I know I’ve missed a lot of the build with explanations and pics but yall will get over it. This was my first ever buggy build and I had a great group of friends help me and teach me along the way. I can’t thank everyone enough through this journey. Tomorrow it goes on it’s maiden voyage.
Happy wheeling gals and guys. Stay safe this saint Patrick’s day.
Cool build. Maybe one of these tube elbows for your pump? Hard to tell if it would clear or not but would be better than the hard 90 if so
JIC AN Fittings are crafted from robust carbon steel and feature a zinc-trivalent coating for enhanced wear and corrosion resistance These fittings are designed for high-pressure applications and utilize a 37° flare connection that complies with the SAE J514 standard making them suitable for a
www.hydraulicsdirect.com
Nice project. Re where you had to clear the chassis for your coil springs, I've found that things on the trail flex way more than in the barn. Places where it has plenty of clearance in the barn will rub on the trail.
Cool build. Maybe one of these tube elbows for your pump? Hard to tell if it would clear or not but would be better than the hard 90 if so
JIC AN Fittings are crafted from robust carbon steel and feature a zinc-trivalent coating for enhanced wear and corrosion resistance These fittings are designed for high-pressure applications and utilize a 37° flare connection that complies with the SAE J514 standard making them suitable for a
www.hydraulicsdirect.com
I wound up using a 45* jic fitting to give me more clearance on the upper link. I used on like you shared on the upper fitting. Had to clearance the bottom of the alternator mount. Works like a charm.
Looks good. What did you use for coolant lines to the radiator?
-16 nylon braided
Looks good. What did you use for coolant lines to the radiator?
First ride out in the buggy this past weekend to AOP in Tennessee. Was a wet muddy mess with muddy slick rocks. It did great for the first ride. No major issues to speak of really. 39’s and Toyota hubs don’t work so well. Broke both hubs in one day. Going with rcv drive flanges for the front. The 5:29’s now I believe are going to be the next week link, already have 300m rcv axles. Would 4:88 be a better option to put in my spare thirds? 3.8 tcase and 904 auto.
eternal noobie
Staff member
Someone told me recently that 4.88 Toy diffs are the strongest...
Someone told me recently that 4.88 Toy diffs are the strongest...
Guess it depends on who you ask woody. I’d trust your opinion over others. I’ve heard that 4:30 where but don’t wanna give up the crawlability. Looks like new 300m stubs are in order as well. Stripped and broke splines on both sides stubs.
Started to install the rcv flanges and noticed the splines damaged.
Would like to drill and tap for larger hardware. What’s recommended bolt and thread pitch on this upgrade?
eternal noobie
Staff member
what hardware are you upgrading?
IMO, the strongest knuckle/steering setup is Front Range keyed stuff. I had zero issues with it on my FToy. The balance of all the hardware was from Front Range too, their ARP knuckle/hub kits.
The yota stuff got pulled for my set up.
The start of motor mounts. 
Bolted to the mock-up trans to start placement.
