Mini trailer build

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SteerAndStuff

Spotter Required
Dec 31, 2016
206
Wyoming
Have posted this on Pirate but will share here. Had a 18' 10k nice car hauler style trailer but it weighed 2800lbs alone with a 23" deck height. As I really only ever use the trailer for the rig I decided to build a smaller dedicated trailer. First I wanted it as low as possible and no wider than the rig with driver over fenders.

Initial cad drawing for some dimensions and visualization. Bugy is 110" WB and also drew a friends 124" rig to see if it would fit ok:
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I scored a pair of 7k axles with bent beams for cheap. I originally toyed with making the single axle but ended up going tandem for road redundancy. If I had a bearing/axle failure could easily jack up and chain one axle and run on the other without being overloaded. Since I wanted drop spindles the width I wanted was a custom size and to buy bare beams would be around $800. I ordered 7k drop spindles and a length of 3" DOM and built my own. I found the spec for the castor to be 1.5 degree per side. I ended up doing .7 degrees since I'm not running the weight they are designed for but my springs are inboard a little more than spec too, so have a little more leverage on them.

Here was building the axles:
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Start of the frame, installing spring hangers, ramp, and light provisions. Frame is 2x4x.120 rectangle tube:
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Scored six barely used 215/75R16 tires from a dually chevy. That tire is shorter than the typical 225R16 trailer tire so gain a little extra lowering there. Friend has some nice alcoa wheels so picked those up too.

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Build the fender frames from 2x1x.120 rectangle tube. They were about the hardest thing to build to keep all the same angle and flat. Use my big I-beam and some creative clamping to build a jig to do them.

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Skinned the fenders with 14ga and dropped the skins down 1/2" then added 1/2" angle cleats for traction.

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Used some expanded for the buggy deck

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Added an 8k drop leg jack, spare tire mount, and rear drop legs for loading without ramps. Painted hammered grey to mach buggy chassis.

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Weighed it at this point so I could start the homemade trailer title/license process with the state

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Built some small ramps in case have to load a disabled rig. Built them to be able to also make the fender climb more gradual if needed also. The stow inside the fender area and use a bolt with same size head as lug nuts to keep them tight/rattle free then a pin through bolt in case they come loose they can't come off.

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Shot with the rig with 43s on the trailer

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And a shot on the road to show the width and height.

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So far have around 1000 miles on the trailer and been working great. Is nice in small areas to jocky around nice and tight to the truck.
 
I have one I built out of an old Demco car trailer, like the ones rental companies use. Mine is a little heavier as well. 12' deck. 7k axles. 215-85-16 tires.
Tows great, I have several thousand miles on it now. I had MAC make me some basket straps that will hold up to a 39" tire for the front and use regualr straps to hold down the rear.
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Figured would update this with updated pictures. I have since added a large toolbox on tongue to carry spare parts, fluids, tools, etc. Also decked the center to make trailer more useable for other stuff. I used 2x10s on the front and rear section with a few crossmembers so strong enough can run a jack on that area is need to work on rig while on the trailer. I decked the center section with 3/4 plywood and crossmembers off bottom of frame so a 42" spare tires can rest there and not get bellied on by the buggy. Coated all the lumber in boiled linseed oil on all sides after cutting and before installing so should hold up for a long time.

A few years ago I had to winch my broken rig onto it, ramps worked great to get front tires up on rear deck, moved ramps to fenders to lessen the angle up them, then put ramps back on rear deck for rear tires to pull up. Was a few steps but made winching on no problem.

Considering selling/trading now since I bought the enclosed trailer and bought some land and will need to haul equipment and materials for that project.

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Nice and low. I went the lazy route and bought a 14' aluminum trailer with drop axles. I've never scaled it but the title says 900#. Funny how so many people think they need a 18-20' trailer to haul a rig that is usually 5-7' shorter. I destroyed the flimsy aluminum fenders so a buddy fabbed up some drive overs out of 2x2 square tubing. We intentionally dropped the top of the fender so that a squishy tire wouldn't crush the fender.

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Nice and low. I went the lazy route and bought a 14' aluminum trailer with drop axles. I've never scaled it but the title says 900#. Funny how so many people think they need a 18-20' trailer to haul a rig that is usually 5-7' shorter. I destroyed the flimsy aluminum fenders so a buddy fabbed up some drive overs out of 2x2 square tubing. We intentionally dropped the top of the fender so that a squishy tire wouldn't crush the fender.

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Everyone's need are deterrent. some want a longer trailer so they can use it for more than hauling there Buggy. A longer trailer is more stable at speed !!
There usually built stronger and have bigger axles and brakes.
The OP trailer looks really sweet built well with heavy duty axles wheels and brakes.
However that aluminum trailer looks like it is bending under the load and has the small 3500 Lb axles that are barely adequate for the job and do not inspire confidence for long hauls away for home. JMHO
 
Interesting observation on the flex in the trailer bed. Not sure if it's an optical illusion or not. I'll have to check it out but honestly that probably won't happen till spring now. And even if there is some deflection, I'm not sure it's anything to worry about. Everything deflects under load. The key is if it's plastically deflecting or not. I had a 26' Kaufman 15K gvw that with 2 jeeps on it had some frame bow. Again, over several years, never an issue.

RE length, this is a dedicated trailer and I wanted the shortest possible, as I double tow behind a 5th wheel and every foot counts. The only things that have been on it are one version or another of Jeep or buggy. 73' tip to tail.

Axle strength has been debated forever. This trailer scaled just under 6000# on the axles when hooked to the 5th wheel. (would have to dig up scale slip to be sure) So, assuming equal load (which it's not all the time) 3000/3500 = 85% loaded. Is that acceptable or not? That's where the debate comes in.

This trailer has been across the country and has never been an issue. Bearings are maintained as they should be. It's level and stable and watching it in the rearview camera, does not have any sway.

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Your trailer is huge compared to mine....12' deck, single 5200# axle, open design, etc. It tows amazingly behind our ClassA and behind the Sprinter.

I had a 14' cut-down 7k utility trailer back in the 90's, hauled my FJ40 around the country on it. Same super-light modifications, the rear of the trailer would bow to the ground when you loaded a rig. Used the straps to actually tighten/level the deck. I put a ridiculous number of miles on it (WI to CO, UT, SD, TX, AR, OK, TN, GA, MI, MN, IA, more), and the current/3rd owner still does. (passed around friends) Paid $750 for it new back in 1996.
 
Interesting observation on the flex in the trailer bed. Not sure if it's an optical illusion or not. I'll have to check it out but honestly that probably won't happen till spring now. And even if there is some deflection, I'm not sure it's anything to worry about. Everything deflects under load. The key is if it's plastically deflecting or not. I had a 26' Kaufman 15K gvw that with 2 jeeps on it had some frame bow. Again, over several years, never an issue.

RE length, this is a dedicated trailer and I wanted the shortest possible, as I double tow behind a 5th wheel and every foot counts. The only things that have been on it are one version or another of Jeep or buggy. 73' tip to tail.

Axle strength has been debated forever. This trailer scaled just under 6000# on the axles when hooked to the 5th wheel. (would have to dig up scale slip to be sure) So, assuming equal load (which it's not all the time) 3000/3500 = 85% loaded. Is that acceptable or not? That's where the debate comes in.

This trailer has been across the country and has never been an issue. Bearings are maintained as they should be. It's level and stable and watching it in the rearview camera, does not have any sway.

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For your intended purpose I can see why you wanted a small light trailer ;)
 

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