Looks awesome. Keep up the good work!
Build Portal Buggy revamp
- Thread starter JarrodBrazil
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- #32
JarrodBrazil
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Finally finished the exhaust. All welded out the crossover didn’t fit exactly sooo I had to cut it in two places
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- #33
JarrodBrazil
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Mounted the ECM and harness relays on the inside of fire wall. The switch pro and distribution blocks mounted inside right side engine cover with Dzus fasteners. Top cover mounted with Dzus fasteners also. The blue can is remote master cylinder idea from SHO
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- #34
JarrodBrazil
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Seats mounted on quick pins. Seat belts anchors from Armada are super nice idea from Jeff Clibon. Built a nice little hood to finish off rig Had a small crack in the frame near rear upper link mount so I fabbed a a gusset to tie belly to link to outside chassis bar
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- #35
JarrodBrazil
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Radiator and fan were mounted poorly so I extended the fan shroud and built a nice upper radiator mount that will receive some holes for looks. Chassis is done and being powder coated at CAPS in Fresno,CA. They did an amazing job coating the headers inside and out with ceramic chrome inside and out for a heat barrier.
Broski
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Nice work 
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- #37
JarrodBrazil
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I’m goin at it. Got the oil pickup tube installed with a homemade tool THANK YOU TO STEER N STUFF FOR ADVICE!! I really tried to let some of the boogerwelds stay, but damn it I’ve changed to building a show car. This Dupli-Color rattle can impresses people. Always Prep extra and tape and or tin foil it up.
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- #39
JarrodBrazil
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SteerAndStuff
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Looking good, Keep up with the progress and updates!
I’m gathering parts and working on axles currently. Not much that makes a good write up! But I’m working on it!Hey thanks. I hope my build inspires you to get after it
Have you actually put a belt on this yet? I bought the same Eversen bracket and with a 90 inch belt the tension is great but the belt hits right below the throttle body. Just wondering if it’s me or if I need to change something. Thanks in advance!RULE #1. KEEP IT SIMPLE!!
Transfer case is remounted in original location which keeps driveshafts and seat mounts!
My first real tech was flipping the intake. I have seen the normal move all the front water jackets to the rear like Mnorby who did a great build! And has the JHF advantage of coolant traveling through the chassis tubes
I decided to cut the ball sack off the intake and flip it after cutting off stock power steering mount which keeps the Eversen belt routing
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I figured out my problem. I just needed to clearance about another 1/4 inch off the upper intake. Right as rain now!
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- #44
JarrodBrazil
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That’s great!!! I was having transmission guy problems… after a heated discussion he finished it and I now find out the torque converter doesn’t fit My trans has a 27 spline small input and a 27 large spline input. My new TC has a small 26 and large 27. Also the TC contacts the flywheel before threaded pads touch by about a flat washer. I cannot check end play until I get the right 27 splines on converter
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- #45
JarrodBrazil
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We’ve got progress. Florida torque converter resplined that converter and it fits with no spacers!!! I’m so excited to hear this thing. Got the bulk of shit together. Need Couple steering lines changed and a all new wiring. Back on trail 2027
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- #46
JarrodBrazil
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I did remove the 4:1 gear set in the Dana 300 if anyone needs that
I always love how spotless and clean everything looks when new....if only that would last 
Wheeling weather is upon us!!
Wheeling weather is upon us!!
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- #49
JarrodBrazil
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Yes the differentials are Toyota 8” and they are flipped because the Hummer portals are Two gear drive so the axles actually spin backwards to spin tire forwards hahahaha
Water neck was too close to drivers side upper link so I made a 90* neck out of a chunk of aluminum
Right...I get why they are flipped due to the 2 gear portal. Sorry for not being more clear in my question: What I was asking specifically was why a Toyota FJ80 HP in the rear.....was it to get the gears to drive on the correct "drive" side? Obviously a flipped LP Toyota 3rd would have given a higher driveline so I'm assuming you went HP in the rear to get on the drive side of the gear and get more strength.
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- #51
JarrodBrazil
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Bought this car used I do not even know the answer. I will say the 8” housing is very thin in the center where the 3rd member studs strip easily. I would get 9” next time
I’ve barely driven this car and have lost 2 CV boots already. So maybe u joints next time
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You do "eliminate" pinion oiling issues by running the HP8 pinion down. That is the big downside to the LP8 being run upside down. Being on the correct side of the gear doesn't hurt either. Clearance suffers tho, my pinion flanges are beat up and both are upside down LP8's
Yes, those two studs suck, Trail Gear makes bolts that you can thread in from the back, but they only suck less.
I have torn 3 boots in 18 months (maybe 4), if the boots you are ordering are snug on the inner axle then do not run a clamp there....just on the bell.
Boots on the D10609 are notorious for tearing, the slightly smaller CVJ3899 boots seem to survive better.
I'm pretty sure I'm going 9" (with Toyota conversion flanges) at this point. I'm a Toyota guy so while I'd really love to run them, the 9" just gives me a little extra peace of mind since it's stronger and cost is basically a wash. Granted, I'm giving up a good 1/2" of ground clearance though...which is a big deal, not to mention a good exchange of weight....kind of anathema to what these portal buggy builds are all about. I need to be really careful not to bring my overkill mindset to these builds (building the wife one at the same time) or these are going to end up really heavy pigs.
Overfilling; good, sticky gear oil; and pre-soaking the bearings are the fixes (or preventative steps) for pinion oiling correct?
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Correct. I have "heard" of people running a pinion oil slinger, but I haven't tracked down much on it. I run Amsoil Severe Gear in my diffs, portal boxes and t-case. No issues. I HAVE heard that Redline Shock Proof (red) doesn't play well with ARB's in D60, but I ran that in my FToy ARB and had no problems.
Apparently (on the 9" anyway) the slinger is optional since in LP configuration, the pinion's so low that the front pinion bearing is always in oil. Now, I've seen some seriously turned up 9" rear ends to get the driveline to mate to the rear output on Jeeps for example....and I'd think on those it would be good to have so I'd be surprised if places selling thirds mostly to 4wd vehicles (like ECGS) would probably include it in their complete 3rd builds.
Thanks for the tip on the Amsoil. I can't remember what higher end gear oil I've been using in various things...but it's good to know the ASG is working well for you. I wonder if Jesse's new portal boxes use the standard capacity 1 pint of fluid or if they take more. Guess I'll need to clarify with him.
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- #56
JarrodBrazil
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Hey thanks Woody!!! I’m gonna get some of those boots!!
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- #57
JarrodBrazil
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Getting really close on this!!!!!!
Billet cardboard waterneck (no thermostat) installed
SHO 3/4” wilwood single master cylinder with a braided flex to a manifold (internet buy) mounted with a brake light switch all plastic lines from there to calipers. Brakes are good
Got the air locker switches mounted (plastic air switches from a Peterbilt).
Billet cardboard waterneck (no thermostat) installed
SHO 3/4” wilwood single master cylinder with a braided flex to a manifold (internet buy) mounted with a brake light switch all plastic lines from there to calipers. Brakes are good
Got the air locker switches mounted (plastic air switches from a Peterbilt).
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- #58
JarrodBrazil
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Fired right up. Idled at 1500rpm and then after a minute and a half it idled up to 2100rpm. I realized with HP tuners that I had a faulty new GM O2 sensor. New Napa O2 sensor and we are in business
Stock D300 gears seem perfect ratio with the portals. The Buick 3.9l is surprisingly peppy a couple small things left
Very happy with the duetch (whatever) connector kit from Amazon. Also bought the crimpers and extra terminals that were not split down the middle which I like these only work for 14 gauge wire so I used a weather pack for the 12 gauge fan wires
Stock D300 gears seem perfect ratio with the portals. The Buick 3.9l is surprisingly peppy a couple small things left
Very happy with the duetch (whatever) connector kit from Amazon. Also bought the crimpers and extra terminals that were not split down the middle which I like these only work for 14 gauge wire so I used a weather pack for the 12 gauge fan wires
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- #59
JarrodBrazil
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This buggy came with a switch pro’s 8 switch
It is magical. Internally digital circuit breakers. The Brain will Bluetooth to your phone
You can program 4 switches to 35amp (these have two 14 gauge outputs)
4 switches are 17 amp max.
Individually programmable momentary on/off
Can turn certain switches on automatically with key switch
One switch can trigger another. Light bar was set at 7 amps and after 3 seconds on they would flash and turn off. It can dim stuff by lowering voltage.
I have a key switch that turns the pro on.
ARB is automatically on
Ignition button then starter
This bracket is made by WEHR’s Racing. Fits 1-1/2 DOM (fits PSC steering shaft). and has a 1/2” hole in the end to mount a hood pin for a drag car. I drilled and tapped a 1/4” hole for ram phone mount
It is magical. Internally digital circuit breakers. The Brain will Bluetooth to your phone
You can program 4 switches to 35amp (these have two 14 gauge outputs)
4 switches are 17 amp max.
Individually programmable momentary on/off
Can turn certain switches on automatically with key switch
One switch can trigger another. Light bar was set at 7 amps and after 3 seconds on they would flash and turn off. It can dim stuff by lowering voltage.
I have a key switch that turns the pro on.
ARB is automatically on
Ignition button then starter
This bracket is made by WEHR’s Racing. Fits 1-1/2 DOM (fits PSC steering shaft). and has a 1/2” hole in the end to mount a hood pin for a drag car. I drilled and tapped a 1/4” hole for ram phone mount
SteerAndStuff
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That's a good looking mount, keeps them in easy reach.