Build #SteerAndStuff Buggy

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SteerAndStuff

Spotter Required
Dec 31, 2016
206
Wyoming
Time to start getting back onto the the forums more. Here is my build thread on the new buggy after selling my old GoatBuilt Ibex that I had cut in half twice and remodeled to make more inline with what I was doing. I first built it with the idea of doing a little of the local racing but after racing twice I decided racing just isn't my thing and retired out with a 100% win ratio. So then making a larger chassis do more rock crawler things was the thing with adding a back seat that rarely got used, redoing the front end for better visibility and aesthetics, and adding rear steer.

So after seeing the other JHF builds I really liked the style of the chassis and with only a one car garage building a chassis at home didn't sound appealing. So got the chassis and axles ordered from JHF and started the parts gathering. Here is a rundown of the parts list so far:

  • Chassis: JHF Trail chassis
  • Engine: GM 3.9L LGD from 2009 Impala
    • 250 Llamathrusts of power
  • Transmission: 700R4 (60° bellhousing from 1984 2.8 S10)
    • TCI Full manual reverse valve body w/ braking along with other pump and internal modifications
  • Transfer case: Dana 300 (27spline input, 32 spline rear output)
    • Midnight Metalwork Rock Box housing
  • Axles: JHF portal axles using Toyota 8" 3rds
    • 4.88 gears. Yukon Grizzly locker front/Yukon zip locker rear

*I should preface the name. Years ago in Moab on Escalator a friend got jammed in and couldn't move. He asked for a spot and at that point I told him to just "steer and stuff" since he was stuck. After that it became a colloquial term and now I'm just running with it. I'll see if I can add a clip of the video sometime.
 
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After a marathon trip to western Nevada and back doing 1,974 miles in 35.5 hours I got home with the chassis and axles components from JHF. I had build a temporary wooden table to build on and be able to roll around if needed in anticipation of getting the chassis. Got home and slid onto the table and had no time to wait and went ahead and mocked in the engine, transmission, and transfer case.

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First thing I had to change was the transfer case adapter. I originally planned on using a factory GM th350-np208 adapter which pilots and bolts up but problem was for my custom clocking the support ribs and casting of the adapter wouldn't allow redrilling for the clocking I desired. Ended up getting an adapter from Novak and was able to redrill the front of the transfer case to get the perfect clocking.

Also got seat mounts built using either double sheer or a bushing on the single sheer tabs to facilitate using pins to mount seats for tool-less removal.

Transmission crossmember ended up using 1.5" square tube since stronger moment of inertial in the direction of hits it would take. I notched one side of the crossmember and half notched the other so it engages the chassis then used some formed shock brackets to retain it and also locks the crossmember in place.

Started building headers. Wasn't as hard as I expected but at least easier to learn how to build headers on a V6. Waiting on backordered muffler to finish building exhaust for now.

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Started working with the interior panels and thinking of layout for the controls.

Also got a radiator mounted. Wanted small enough to not obstruct visibility, simple to mount, and an off-the-shelf option. The dimensions of a 64-66 Mustang radiator fit pretty decent out of all the options I could find without doing something custom. Could have mounted it over the upper control arm mount but sat the tank higher than I liked so moved it inboard just next to the mount but lower. Mounted using grommet/bushings used on Harley tank mounts.

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You'll have yours done before me at this rate! Looking awesome!

I looked at a similar double-shear mount for the seats....getting that inside/back pin installed is impossible, so opted for one longer rod for each seat the pulls out via a hole in the side skids. Might have those skids mocked this weekend.

What muffler did you go with? I've got a couple already purchased that I don't plan to use, but the Flowmaster HP2 is what I wanted....and shipping in June....uugh.

I need to redo my trans mount....did you go bushings or hard mount?
 
You'll have yours done before me at this rate! Looking awesome!

I looked at a similar double-shear mount for the seats....getting that inside/back pin installed is impossible, so opted for one longer rod for each seat the pulls out via a hole in the side skids. Might have those skids mocked this weekend.

What muffler did you go with? I've got a couple already purchased that I don't plan to use, but the Flowmaster HP2 is what I wanted....and shipping in June....uugh.

I need to redo my trans mount....did you go bushings or hard mount?
I try to do at least a little something everyday. Adds up, even the short 15-30 minute days gets me thinking on next steps.

Hoping the seats aren't too bad with skids on but it's something normally don't take apart often I guess.

I ordered the 18" body Flowmaster HP2, it has taken 3 weeks or so to get.

Everything is solid mounted in the drivetrain. My first time trying that.
 
I have one throttle pedal I got for a deal to play with. I am going to re-work the drivers side dash side panel for ore foot room. Have to be able to drive with snow boots on.

Small update. Have the rear steer valve, transmission shifter, and transfer case shifters done. Wanted to keep the rear steer and transmission close and easy to access back and forth. Starting to mock up the rear cutting brakes as well.

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Started working with the interior panels and thinking of layout for the controls.

Also got a radiator mounted. Wanted small enough to not obstruct visibility, simple to mount, and an off-the-shelf option. The dimensions of a 64-66 Mustang radiator fit pretty decent out of all the options I could find without doing something custom. Could have mounted it over the upper control arm mount but sat the tank higher than I liked so moved it inboard just next to the mount but lower. Mounted using grommet/bushings used on Harley tank mounts.

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Curious to see hpw you route the radiator lines, looks like you have decent room in the front is it too narrow to lean one back up there?
 
Curious to see hpw you route the radiator lines, looks like you have decent room in the front is it too narrow to lean one back up there?
Not really enough room. Could fit a 18x14 radiator max up there and even that interferes with a ton of stuff.

Winch mount built today. Did similar mount on last rig and liked how easy it is to transition from front pull to suck down. Neet to build a tube fairlead to finish it off.

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Using the frame trails for coolant passage to the rear radiator. Since engine side is about under cab I welded in a self centering blind to keep the front 2' of frame from being hot.

Welded on nipples for the inlets and outlets.

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Used light bar tube mounts for headrest. Makes mount nob permanent if I need to redrill to adjust height. Simple and cheap. I tried a single mount and counter sunk screw but wasn't solid and not thick enough to fully counter sink so just using button head screws and thinking adding some foam about 1/2" thick to tighten up cover and cover screw heads more.
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Few updates. As of now it's all done minus getting engine calibration sorted out. Had a bunch of time consuming setbacks in the last month or 2. Axle shafts were wrong length and had to be modified, had to fix chassis welds because of coolant leaks, and the ecu tune problems. Here are a few update pictures.

All lights wired in.
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Belly configuration trying to keep and heat from sedative stuff.
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First time outside and near complete.
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Radiator heat shield to block fan noise and protect from cap or upper hose failure.
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Finished interior. Seen a few guys do the fabric and made sense to me to keep rattles and harmonic noise down and has to help with radiant heat pluse looks finished.
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Looks awesome :) How soon until you start scratching it?

Curious how you like the diamond work on the door skins....my panels are already a mess from wheeling, unsure if doing the upholstery work is worth it there.

Is it just me, or is your acc pedal REALLY close? Mine is actually set back/further than the brake....
 
If I can get ecu stuff sorted this week would like to take it out this weekend. To me side panels are consumable and usually changed ever year or two. This fabric is cheap though and after buying 3 yards I did ll these panels and have enough to do 1 or 2 more side panels. Will probably make a lexan passenger side panel next summer.

Here are pictures of the throttle during build. I have since adjusted the brake pedal back for my fit. The throttle at wfo is just off the panel. I used the cable to change the motion ratio so I have more granular throttle control. I plan on a little heel stop that will hit that panel mount screw in front of throttle as well.

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So many differences in the handful of JHF Trail builds...none of us having anyone else to compare to had kept us creative :)

I'm considering a lexan passenger side too....and I'll be shocked to get 6mo out of my alum panels, already planning a set of "show" skins soon.
 
These panels are just aluminum sheet rems from local machine shop so pretty cheap. One was .060 and other was .080 so I put the thicker on passenger side since in my experience they get destroyed quicker. Last buggy I started with .040 and .050 and had sharp holes in them in short order and I started duct taping them over with same color tape to keep people from getting cut on them. Last set ended up being .120 and they were great other than heavier but also free material.
 

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