Build #SteerAndStuff Buggy

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woody said:
How badly do your tires rub shocks and links? I'm shining all of mine, at least a little...
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Fronts the tires just barely shine up the shocks at full flex/turn, rears none. I spent a fair amount playing with shock tab position and mostly clears tires and axle knuckle by minute amounts.
 
SteerAndStuff said:
Little things, picked up a Terapump XL to fit in my 5 gallon fuel jug. So much easier that balancing on rear axle filling the gas tank with the Fuelworx can. Be sure to get the XL version that has the jug cap adapter and longer suction and fill hose.

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Well I poured gas on my shoulder again and promptly went in and added this pump to my Christmas list.
 
4Low Magazine did a subscriber spotlight on my buggy in this months issue. I do have to correct that I do not own Midnight Metalworks or invent the Rockbox 300, I think they got confused as Rob was supposed to have one of his chassis at that event they initially took clean shots and specs of my rig, although mine does have one of his cases in it. Also my tan color body is to be less seen from a distance. ;)

Be sure to check out the current issue and/or subscribe.

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SteerAndStuff said:
4Low Magazine did a subscriber spotlight on my buggy in this months issue. I do have to correct that I do not own Midnight Metalworks or invent the Rockbox 300, I think they got confused as Rob was supposed to have one of his chassis at that event they initially took clean shots and specs of my rig, although mine does have one of his cases in it. Also my tan color body is to be less seen from a distance. ;)

Be sure to check out the current issue and/or subscribe.

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Very cool!

Someday I'll build a rig that's magazine worthy...in the meantime, more scratches!
 
I'm glad the poly panels were new when the magazine took the shots. The Canyons since have scratched and cracked then up pretty good. Been drilling the ends of the cracks to prevent them getting worse and peeling the wrap pieces off as they get bunched up.
 
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Nice build up , cool to see some details on your rig. Any regrets putting your battery under your seat and so close to the muffler?
 
tomosborne32 said:
Nice build up , cool to see some details on your rig. Any regrets putting your battery under your seat and so close to the muffler?
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Thank you. So far haven't had any problems with it there. I do have the heat shield on the exhaust and used some flashing tape on the battery to try to reflect any heat from it.
 
I see you are using the Switch Pro RCR -Force 12 for all your switchs. Im getting ready to wire a new buggy. Do you like that system and for starting the buggy is it easy to wire.
 
68Rockhorse said:
I see you are using the Switch Pro RCR -Force 12 for all your switchs. Im getting ready to wire a new buggy. Do you like that system and for starting the buggy is it easy to wire.
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Yes, love that system, everything on the buggy is ran thru it except the rear suck down winch. Super easy to wire and program, unless something better come out in the future I would always use one again going forward.
 
Finally decided to add an oil accumulator like I had on the last buggy. After an outing a few weeks ago trying good summer wheeling notch line in 30 degree weather with a skim of snow and on my winter PBR tires I slid in and had to get pullout of sideways and backward. With my 3.4 Camaro oil pickup on the 3.9 I have great oil pressure pointing up but not so much when steep down. By the time I would start and assist with my recovery I had ran for a fair amount with little to 0 oil pressure and some loud lifters. I'm using Schaeffers 9000 engine oil that is high in moly that I feel helps with residual protection when no oil being pumped.

I used a Moroso 23676 oil accumulator filter adapter on the engine that is 1.25" thick. To compensate for the adapter I switch from the factory Napa 1522 filter to a Napa 1042 that is 1.125" shorter so the total setup is only 0.125" longer than original filter alone. The adapter has a -10 oring fitting so adapted to -8AN hose so to use same Aeroquip AQP -8 hose as I use for transmission cooler as well as firesleeve over it for heat and abrasion protection. Used a 3qt accusump accumulator with a solenoid valve tied into my fuel pump circuit so when I hit ignition the engine pre-oils when the fuel pump primes then is open when engine is running and closes when engine is off to lock in the full accumulator till next startup.

Because of the size of the accumulator the only spot in belly to fit it is where I originally has the ARB compressor so it got relocated forward more where it could just nest in the boatside in front of the driveshaft carrier bearing. The accumulator is a snug fit to the seat mount tube, t-case, skid, and passenger seat but she fits. Since I had to rewire and replumb the compressor I took the opportunity to change the fittings to allow me to use easy off the shelf 1/4" air line instead of the 5mm stuff from the Yukon Zip locker. The locker bulkhead and the air solenoid use 1/8 BSPT so sourced 1/8 BSPT to 1/4 air line push lock fittings.

Now just need the weather to get back above 0 and get it out and test the new setup.

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Couple little updates, I got a set of the Radflo JHF spec bypass air shocks and the front were a straight swap but the rear I originally had swayaway shocks which are 3.325" shorter eye-to-eye than the radflos while both being 18" travel. Cut the mounts off the chassis and axle and reset for the new shock length. Also added some large tie-down tabs on the axle that make strapping down to the trailer much quicker and easier and allows for some unique recovery options asl well if needed. Also added a bushing on the steering arm that have seen reports of cracking at end of support right before the corner bolt. This bushing ties that support all the way to the bolt now.

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Some mini me action. Been into RC crawlers from the early days and put this rig together this summer. Is a Super Shafty Chupacapra chassis this has similar lines to the JHF trail chassis. Using Axial Capra portal axles, West Desert Wheeler cut and shut Krawler tires, and some import 2.2 beadlocks that look similar to my RBP beadlocks. The wheel were only offered in a few colors and not black so had a local guy cerakote them black. Using a Vanquish Products 3 gear transmission with a Hurtz dig that allows for 4wd, front only/rear neutral, or front only/rear locked stopped and powered by a Hobby Wing Fusion Pro motor/esc combo.

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Did some winterization maintenance and repairs today. The brake cantilever mount started to bend while at Sand Hollow and causing some resistance. Straightened it and slowly bent back either by use or I often push off on it while getting in/out of the buggy. Today I added a double sheer tab to reinforce it.

Had to replace a CV tore CV boot after Sand Hollow as well. Was an original rubber boot, been swapping in the more silicone feeling empi boots and feel they are lasting better.

Swapped back on the Pitbull Rockers for winter wheeling as well.

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Finally got around to installing my fire port in the dash. Its designed for an inboard boat and the idea could jam the element extinguisher thru it in case of an engine fire. It is possitions right behind the fuel rail fitting and near my rear steer hydraulic fittings. Also found a spot in the dash for the battery disconnect while I was at it. Never really liked it between the seats.

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Few little changes. Had to do some transmission work so while I was at it I moved the cooler to under the fuel tank and changed to a larger 40 row vs the old 25 row. This opened up more visibility to the rear passenger tire from between the seats.

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Also changed the throttle pedal setup. My original donor car throttle was plastic so did the remote cable operated pedal to adjust pedal ratio. Found later the metal pedal option for other applications with a 3900 so used that and extended the pedal 3.5" to get more throw for more analog input. Also added a Pedal Commander and run it in Eco-1 which changes the throttle curve so more low pedal control then ramps up near full throttle.

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Also picked up a passenger seat tray from Maker Offroad for those days wheeling solo. Had to modify the mounts a fair for my application to get to clear the dash and B pillar. Also modded to slip fit into my front seat mounts and pin into the rear for tool less install.

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Also while wheeling in Sand Hollow the day after I loaned my spare fuel pump to a friend my buggy started running weird and felt like a fuel issue. Wheeled a few days in Colorado as well and by the last day it was running worse consistently and I was getting a rich fuel odor and consuming fuel worse. I noted my fuel trims were very low and ecu was pulling a lot of fuel. Got home and found it running at 84psi fuel pressure at idle. Pulled fuel pump module and found a few things. First the regulator inlet screen was completely plugged with little thread looking fibers that I assume are from the hydramat. I ended up just leaving the screen off for now as I feel those little fibers would flow through the regulator instead of plugging up that fine screen. Also found the insulators for the butt connectors had swollen and slid down. Need to order some better fuel rated connectors and stagger the connections. For now zip tied the insulation back on and tied the ground to the pump frame to give separation to test. Now engine seems to run good and have 62 psi pressure and fuel trims are happy for the short test I ran.

Looking at ordering a handful of these unless anyone else has a good fuel safe wire connector suggestion?

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Personally, I would use solder connections and some fuel safe shrink hose.

Good updates :) I'm due for a few on mine....
 
Heat shrink is probably best if I can find a quality one that doesn't do weird stuff in fuel. I do want some butt connectors to leave in my spare parts for sure though if we have to change a pump in the field can do it remote easily. Steve lost his pump while we were on TNT in September so I ran back and grabbed my spare for him and ran to his house since he had some quality connectors so we could fix it once and done in the field. Maybe I should try some heat shrink and misc connectors and submerge in fuel over winter and see what they do.

I also tweaked the Midnight Metalwork shifter while had the transmission out. Rear low always felt like it was just barely engaged but at least never popped out. From reading others comments it sounds like there is some clearance/dimension problem internally on these housings. I did some quick measuring and split the difference on the rear shift rail engagement and flipped rail and drilled new countersunk hole for the shift fork .100" back so now rear low engaged deeper and rear high still feels good. Also polished up the rails where they go thru the case bushings and made shifting feel a lot smoother.

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