STEP 7

Go ahead and unbolt the rear output bearing housing and the two halves of the transfer case housing. You don't have to worry about it falling apart. That silicone they used from the factory is strong stuff. I don't know why they bothered bolting it.

STEP 7 CONTINUED

Yet another picture of the unbolted transfer case assembly to further milk STEP 7. Take note that unbolting it didn't do anything. See what I mean about that seal? Kinda makes ya wonder why all 10 year old 231s are wet.

STEP 7 CONTINUED STILL

Here we go. The rear output housing is off and the rear cover seperates with ease after some gentle prying. Keep in mind that your transfer case housing is cast aluminum, so don't beat the crap out of it if the seal doesn't break right away. One of the most common problems with 231s are cracked housings, so be careful.

STEP 8

Here is the detached rear cover of the 231 transfer case assembly. On the right hole is a mechanical pump that keeps the inside of the transfer case clean and lubricated. Be careful with it because it is flimsy. You should be able to leave it in place.

STEP 9

Here is the inside of the dismantled transfer case. The 231 is a chain driven transfer case while many common transfer cases like the Dana 300 and the Atlas are gear driven. Check out the length of the mainshaft in this picture! The object of this modification is to replace this long mainshaft with a much shorter one.

STEP 10

Go ahead and remove the original mainshaft and chain. These items should just slide out of the case with ease. Put them someplace safe and keep the chain clean until you are ready to reinstall. The "synchro-hub assembly" (the large gears) will still be on the mainshaft at this point.

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