So revisiting the injection on the 4.3 after chatting a bit with @matzell this morning. I took the intake apart to see if it's the cpi or the true mpfi. Looks like it's the mpfi version. I have a lot of the stuff to do a tbi setup, but if the mpfi is really that much better. I'll stick with the stock 2004 4.3 setup. (Which woody reccommemded years ago lol)
Because Christmas is coming I picked up a set of gauge pods for the Scout.
Speedhut Custom gauges (yes I know 160 is a bit excessive..)
Here is what the dash looks like (pic pulled from the internets)
The main problem is that the opening in the scout dash is about 4.437" and the gauges are 4.15" bezel OD.
I have two choices, grab a couple 5" aluminum disks and make "halos" that can center the gauges (like this)
Or weld up the dash and drill new holes.
The "adapters" will likely look like adapters. But the dash is perfect and I hesitate to modify it. It is just a flat piece of steel, so it's at least easier to make look clean..
Thinking about wiring.. I picked up the ecm for the 2004 mpfi 4.3. I'm now trying to figure out if the $600 it costs for a new harness is that much better than just reworking a stock harness. The cost savings will be high with a reworked harness, but having everything new to start with seems wise..
I redid the original TBI harness for mine....worked for a few years, then had an issue i never traced out....gave up and ordered a new harness, much preferred...
I got a couple leads from friends and can get a complete harness for $470. MUCH better.. Now, I guess the MPFI is back on the table. To go TBI I'd have to pick up a $300 Edelbrock intake manifold and adapt it to a TBI unit. And then buy a harness and reflash the computer lol. Ever feel like a ping pong ball???
Rear suspension is in and truck is sitting on it's own (in the rear). Next weekend is the radius arm suspension for the front and possibly motor/transmission placement.
The suspension arms I'm using are essentially recycled from a 80 series Land Cruiser. The suspension bolt diameter is 18mm. The frame side of the radius arm is going to pass through the frame and then through the suspension link. This makes the bolt significantly longer than is readily available. Finding a 18mm bolt that is about 170mm (6.69") long is not easy, and they cost quite a bit individually.
I can drill the suspension bushings out to 3/4" (19mm) and get a 6.5 or 7" long, grade 8 bolt a lot easier, but it'll add another step when I replace the bushings.
Course, finding a 18mm sleeve for the frame may make this all a moot point..
Gotta go look to see if I can rent a magnetic drill press to drill the draw for the frame side suspension. I think united rentals or sheen has them. I don’t trust myself in making the sleeve straight for some reason.
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