Build Thread Ibex remodeled

MNorby

Addicted Member
Dec 31, 2016
60
Here is my latest build on my original 2 seat Goat Built Ibex based buggy. I built the rig in 2013/2014 and have wheeled it 3 years but with the addition of a little on decided to add a back seat. Here is the rig from before:

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MNorby

Addicted Member
Dec 31, 2016
60
Cut the rig in half and redo the tubing from behind the B pillar. Still leaving the suspension and 110" wheelbase. The new rear bumper tube is 1" back farther and 1.5" lower than the previous setup.
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Started with some basic tube to get the overall shape. This is a 36" PRP seat that is 3" shorter on the butt cushion for extra leg room and has the mud option that has a couple inches of mesh at the base of the seat pad for water and dirt to fall through instead of pooling up.
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Changed mind on frame rails and put a small bent to make under the fuel tank flat. Fuel tank is a 18 gal Goat Built tank. Switched to it from my Jaz tank for shorter front to back dimension to allow the rear seat to sit back as far as possible.
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To mount the seat lower for maximu head room I made the rear mounts go through the frame tube
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MNorby

Addicted Member
Dec 31, 2016
60
Built the floor and under seat panels out of some old road signs. Stripping the sticker part off sucks on them but free aluminium. I mounted the foot panel flush on top of the existing chassis tube to match up with the original interior but mounted it low on the crossmember tube in fron t of seat to get the foot bed flatter and as low as possible. Also mounted the transmission cooler under the seat. In the original version I had it under the gas tank in the similar location. I like that since it is out of the way and you don't hear the fan as much. Only time I have had transmission temperature issues was during a couple races but I really don't intend to race anymore.
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Transmission cooler at ride height and at full bump
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Also put a notch in the crossmember behind the seat that is directly above the axle. Plumbing and wiring should clear without but with this notch give a bunch more room to route fuel and wiring. Seat frame clears crossmember by 1/4" (the seat fabric rests on crossmember lightly) and the axle clears crossmember by 1/4" at full bump.
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MNorby

Addicted Member
Dec 31, 2016
60
For the back seat shoulder harnesses I used some threaded weld washers. Thought they looked cleaner than a tab on the shock tower crossmember.
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Test fit a tire to check clearances for side interior panels. Was originally thinking of one big panel that would have 4 bends but thinking of adding a couple brace tubes that I can incorporate my interior into instead now.
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Thats about where it is now. Got the roof made and waiting for vinyl to wrap it. Started plumbing tranny cooler and fuel back in to weld those mounts in. Put a little paint on it last weekend since I use my shop at work but pull it out everyday. Try to prevent rust issues on the majority of the tube that is all done now.
 

woody

eternal noobie
Staff member
Oct 12, 2010
968
52
Toquerville UT
Looking good!

Have to laugh at the road sign panels....PO of my rig did the same, but left the colors/text on them...my hood and roof skin are a bit obnoxious from the underside ;)

How have you liked the ORI's? Long term, I'm linking the rear of my FToy and I've heard a ton of positives on them over the years. Seems like a great setup (just not cheap)
 

MNorby

Addicted Member
Dec 31, 2016
60
rear interior panels built. Trying to decide if I want to sneak a panel in behind the seat or not

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woody

eternal noobie
Staff member
Oct 12, 2010
968
52
Toquerville UT
What drops into the opening behind that rear seat? IMO, I wouldn't bother with another panel, it will simply be a hard spot to get to for cleanup

What spacing did you use for your panel tabs? Those are on my short-list for my FToy....looks to be about 12" apart?
 

MNorby

Addicted Member
Dec 31, 2016
60
The dirty aspect is the negative for sure. Only real reason for it would be a firewall between seat and tank.
 

MNorby

Addicted Member
Dec 31, 2016
60
What spacing did you use for your panel tabs? Those are on my short-list for my FToy....looks to be about 12" apart?
On the rear panel about 7" across the top, basically put a tab on each end then made the other 2 equal distances. On the main body skin I think they are about 8" spacing. Probably overkill but I wanted equal spacing and that's what fit without having a mounting tab land on a tube or something and getting the symmetry off. I also figure the more mounting tabs the less chance of vibration rattles.


I was originally going to put my compressor between the seat and fuel tank but the viair didn't fit so sold it and got an ARB compressor and it could fit but is small enough it fits nice behind the oil accumulator in the belly so now nothing is going between seat and fuel tank.
 

MNorby

Addicted Member
Dec 31, 2016
60
She runs and moves again. Sitting a little tall here but only a few gallons of fuel and no gear in it yet so will address that shortly. Hope to test it out this weekend or next if it quits snowing sometime. Moved the cutting brake in front of t-case shifters to give more rear seat foot room between the front seats and it feels better there too. Working on a new hood still now. Also added turn signals and waiting for a high/low beam headlight to show still to make a little more road worthy along with some 41.5 PBR radials.

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woody

eternal noobie
Staff member
Oct 12, 2010
968
52
Toquerville UT
Looking good!

I'm toying with cutting brakes in the future....whose setup did you go with?
 

MNorby

Addicted Member
Dec 31, 2016
60
It is a CNC angled handle 3/4 bore cutting brake. Used to have it mounted between the seats so you reached down and pulled handle upward.

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MNorby

Addicted Member
Dec 31, 2016
60
Note: I did have to use soft lines to the cutting brake in this orientation so I can unbolt the cutting brake and lay it flat so I can bleed the rear brakes
 

woody

eternal noobie
Staff member
Oct 12, 2010
968
52
Toquerville UT
thanks...been looking at options for the future....have heard of that brand at least :)

My old 700r ran the Art Carr shifter too, but with a standard manual valve body....wish I had done reverse, but cutting out the gates worked good enough :)
 

MNorby

Addicted Member
Dec 31, 2016
60
The reverse valve body and gate shifter is nice but if I were to do it again I would do a basic tranny with maybe a shift kit or something at most and that new shifter from Moab 4x4 Outpost. We are going to EJS this year and thinking I might see if they have some of those shifters and just pick one up for the future.
 

woody

eternal noobie
Staff member
Oct 12, 2010
968
52
Toquerville UT
I'll check the rig out at EJS then - we'll be there for the week+...likely just bringing the 80 out tho, leave the FToy at home for that trip
 

MNorby

Addicted Member
Dec 31, 2016
60
Will be great to meet you. We plan on being there all week as well.
 

MNorby

Addicted Member
Dec 31, 2016
60
Buddy helped me build the new hood. It has more visibility through the side of the chassis and only weighs 7lbs vs 35 on the old hood. Had to be about an inch higher than the chassis tubes as the engines sticks up through.

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MNorby

Addicted Member
Dec 31, 2016
60
The rig worked good in moab. Initially had the ride height a little low and was hitting belly hard a lot but adjusted that easy enough one evening.