Build The Dirt Squirrel 3.0

[DirtSquirrel]

Such a sexy wheel and tire combo. I love the simplicity of the Trailready HDs. Backspacing is 5.5".

Added two wraps of gorilla tape to help the inner bead. I had some issues on my last buggy with this same wheel/tire combo where i lost inner beads. Added these two wraps and it solved all those problems. Since i should be ~1k lbs lighter this time, im hoping it wont be an issue.

 

[Blitz]

Looks damn good. Close to the color I went with on mine.

 

[whiterhino]

Wow! That's an attention grabbing color.

 

[Broski]

Such a sexy wheel and tire combo. I love the simplicity of the Trailready HDs. Backspacing is 5.5".

Added two wraps of gorilla tape to help the inner bead. I had some issues on my last buggy with this same wheel/tire combo where i lost inner beads. Added these two wraps and it solved all those problems. Since i should be ~1k lbs lighter this time, im hoping it wont be an issue.

I didn't think I like them when they were sitting on the pallet, But damn they look great mounted up !! I LIKE

 

[DirtSquirrel]

Floors are now 100% mocked up and bolted down. Knocked out both sides front to back and finished the doghouse on the passenger side. Lots of welding left to do on them, but im overall happy. Foot area is expanded metal so i can see through it at extreme angles.

On the drivers side i created a little heel pocket. Under the seats is aluminum.

Some sketchy shit getting the buggy off the table. Went pretty well.

And off the table for the first time ever. Started mocking up the engine on the table Mid-Dec, so about 7 months in at this point.

 

[DirtSquirrel]

Yesterday i did some flexing to confirm what i was afraid of, which is the shocks up front making contact with the frame at full articulation. Going to have to modify the upper mounts. Its needed anyways as the upper links touch the frame as well at full pump. So im moving the upper mounts down ~0.5" and out 0.75" to see if that helps. This will also get the upper eyes of the shocks away from the radiator some as its super tight in that area as well.

The shock is about 15.75" extended out of 16". If the axle moves any more to the drivers side, making the passenger shock more vertical, the body will definitely kiss the frame rail. I thought about sectioning the frame about 1/2" here but didnt want to weaken anything. Also though about welding in an "X" in this area and cutting out a pocket essentially for the shock to swing into, but ultimately decided on moving the upper mounts out and down some. Hopefully that is enough to do it.

 

[DirtSquirrel]

Fixed the clearance issues i had up front. Moving the upper mounts out and down solved that. It still close but doesnt hit.

Tire lifted off the ground and overexaggerated full stuff on the drivers side and still no contact. About 1/4" clearance. Full bump, the belly is now at 15".

Ride height. Belly at 20". Top of chassis is ~71".

The fix for the upper mount. It improved clearances in every way.

Overall, im about 4" lower overall height than my last buggy with the body on it. Biggest improvement is the extra 4" of belly height (16" v. 20"). My kidneys will thank me.

 

[DirtSquirrel]

started on the door bars yesterday and got the vent window tubes in. Now i have to crawl my fat ass over the bars to work on the interior. i went with this style to keep the entry/exit easier, especially on my Dad who has a bum knee. Ill try to finish them up tonight.

 

[DirtSquirrel]

Mas updates from over the weekend. The last tubes were welded in to the chassis. These include; the door bars for both sides, some side support for the rear upper part of the chassis in front of the upper shock mounts, a couple tubes to support the cooler, gussets at the windshield and at the B-pillars, and added some lower link mount support tubes to the belly. Now to finish everything else in the next couple weeks before it gets blown apart for weld out, sandblast, and paint.

Also started on the belly skid out of AR400 plate. It will be bolted on to the sides of the chassis. Front portion under the engine will be removable and bolt to the belly skid with those 3 holes.

Also picked up this DOT approved helmet for those hard lines.

 

[DirtSquirrel]

Cut out some panels on the table last night. Figured i would have at least one good set before they are destroyed.

Might have went a little crazy with the fasteners, but at least it doesnt rattle when i hit it.

Roof panel. Im taking it to a buddy's shop today to use his big press to make the curve.

Had to throw the fender on to see what it looked like.

Hope to get it torn down here pretty soon for final weld out and paint.

 

[DirtSquirrel]

I took my roof panel to a friends shop with a large press and we shaped the front bend. Came out pretty good. I still need to add some bolts to the middle section and sides to keep the vibration down.

Also going to make some of the milwaukee packout plates. One for a light weight basket to use when my passenger seat is out. One out of 1/8" for the rear cooler mount, and another light basket to go above the cooler for a tool bag.

 

[woody]

Don't forget to line the inside of that roof panel....helps with heat and noise from vibration.

Amazon product ASIN B07CR15YLK

 

[DirtSquirrel]

Don't forget to line the inside of that roof panel....helps with heat and noise from vibration.

Amazon product ASIN B07CR15YLK

Oh for sure. I have a few saved on amazon. These are the boat decking stuff. Stick on. Trying to find the right color and pattern. Ill be using it on the door panels and ruf.

 

[woody]

Oh for sure. I have a few saved on amazon. These are the boat decking stuff. Stick on. Trying to find the right color and pattern. Ill be using it on the door panels and ruf.

We looked at that too, the thickness and weight turned me away. And I have given up on door panels, they get destroyed too quickly. I've been impressed with how well the vinyl quilt stuff has held up over two years.

 

[DirtSquirrel]

We looked at that too, the thickness and weight turned me away. And I have given up on door panels, they get destroyed too quickly. I've been impressed with how well the vinyl quilt stuff has held up over two years.

What is the weight difference? Cant be too much i woulnt think for this small of area.

I figured id make it look all pretty for one pic and then the side panels will get destroyed.

 

[woody]

What is the weight difference? Cant be too much i woulnt think for this small of area.

I figured id make it look all pretty for one pic and then the side panels will get destroyed.

probably not....but the padded vinyl is a pound, maybe. And agreed, that one photo moment will be awesome, then they disappear

Alum skins on mine survived about an hour. The acrylic held up FAR better (well, the wrap still suffered, but at least I wasn't straightening them constantly) I did inset alum panels on my old FToy and loved it....but that look isn't for everyone. They held up well since the tubes were still 1/2"ish outside the alum.

 

[chaplinfj60]

i have 1/8" thick AL skins and my thinking is when the body does hit a rock or whatever the AL can help disperse the load to the cage/ tubes. maybe keep them from denting as much. plus my AL was crazy cheap.

 

[whiterhino]

I never thought about putting foam on my roof for heat. I have thin strips where it contacts the cage to reduce vibration. Maybe because we don't have the intense sun that you have. My tunnel panels get super hot & the 3/8 stuff might help there.

My skins are around .090" and they have taken a beating. I hammer them back out, hit em with a DA sander and spray bomb them again. They continue to pass the 30' rule. I'm about one more bad crush away from trying poly skins.

 

[DirtSquirrel]

Some updates.
Seat tabs are in.

Cup holders are in (priority). Other side is just the tip.

Interior structure pulled for weld out and trans/t-case removal. I was able to sneak it out of the side in one piece. 0% chance it bolts back up as easily as it came out after welding.

So much room for activities.

Engine made it out the top. Had my doubts.

Racecar shit.

And a blank chassis ready for final weldout. I spent about 20 hours this weekend welding away. Not fun and still not done.

Nap time. Wont be the last time on its side.

And thats where it sits. Mucho welding left to do, but should be able to get it done before the sand blaster comes on Thursday to get rid of all the surface rust on the chassis and axle housings. A good friend is welding up the axles for me while i focus my booger welding on the chassis. less than 3 weeks for a scheduled trip to Sand Hollow. 5% chance i make it, but we are trying. Transmission getting rebuilt is going to be the deciding factor. Im having a hard time finding someone competent to take my money and have it done in my abbreviated timeframe.

 

[woody]

Looking good!

Crazy how engine/trans removal become such a big part of the design process....and that last second hope that the plan works I've added a couple minor things to mine since the initial removal/reinstall and am now unsure they'll ever come out.

 

[vogelj]

Buggy is coming out awesome! I have gone through PTC for my transmissions and have had great luck. Not sure how fast they are on a rebuild, though.

 

[DirtSquirrel]

Driveshafts came in last week from Tom Woods. 2-1/8" OD x 0.188 wall shafts front and rear. They are damn near the same length at 28-28.5" long. The slip yokes will need some mill/flap work to not bind up. These slip yokes are definitely not high clearance units. Ill fix that. They are 100% above the lower links at all times, so thats good.

So go fast parts and some whoa parts came in as well.

Truck Norris Jr. cam and DOD/afm kit from BTR for the 4.3.

The whoa are 14" ultralight brakes from Branik for the front.

 

[DirtSquirrel]

When your friends help you try to make a wheeling trip so they weld up your housings for you, you get this. Lets see how long it lasts in the granite.

 

[whiterhino]

Friends be friends.

 

[DirtSquirrel]

Ready for blast

Post blast

And painted. Massey-Ferguson grey. Im finally coming down off the high. 3 cans of primer. 8 cans of paint.

Axles painted as well.

 

[DirtSquirrel]

tarted on some reassembly over the weekend and started to tear down the engine for inspection and cam swap.

Some DI goodness for my records. High pressure fuel lines and pump.

Pretty sure this was the DOD lifter failure the FB seller was talking about. The rest were nice and smooth. All are getting replaced with non-DOD LS7 lifters.

Slight carbon buildup on the cylinders. These DI engines apparently have this problem. I cleaned the deck and pistons best i could in preparation for the new head gaskets.

Transmission was dropped off at the rebuilder last week and he sent me this pic. Looks like the core i bought spent some time in the water.

I buddy welded up the chopped up engine oil pan with a plate i made. No leaks.

Started to reassemble the chassis a little yesterday. Got the upper links painted and all bolted up.

Used the soap trick on the links to spice them up a little.

Hope to get the cam installed this evening and get the short block painted before the heads go back on. 11 days left before a trip to Sand Hollow.

 

[woody]

That trans looks rough!

Love the upper link bling....saw those pics on FB and I immediately thought "that won't last 10 seconds"....but I was thinking lowers, not uppers. Slick

 

[DirtSquirrel]

That trans looks rough!

Love the upper link bling....saw those pics on FB and I immediately thought "that won't last 10 seconds"....but I was thinking lowers, not uppers. Slick

Yep, if there ever was a picture you could smell, that would be a good one. Burnt trans fluid mixed with water. I knew that going in, that it was just a core. Its all getting replaced anyways with some bling bling stuff.

I got the idea from a bud who used the technique on the hood of his wife's Ultimate Adventure Ramcharger. Figured, what the hell. If i didnt like it, i could always paint over it.

 

[vogelj]

The colors came out awesome! This is my favorite part of the build. I love watching everything come together.

 

[DirtSquirrel]

Cam swap complete in the 4.3. New cam, LS7 lifters, valve springs, valve seals, timing chain and tensioners, seals/head gaskets, etc. I need to modify the oil pan pickup and then it can go back in the chassis.

Some gold VHT paint.

Balance shaft. I left it in. Didnt want to feel it any more than i have to with my solid motor mounts.

Trans rebuilder sent me these pics. Its ready to be picked up.

Im picking it up today. With any luck, i should have the drivetrain back in the chassis in the next few days.