but, pvc and hose clamps outta work 
I clearly need to look at Jake's builds closer, great mount setup
I clearly need to look at Jake's builds closer, great mount setup
Build The Dirt Squirrel 3.0
- Thread starter DirtSquirrel
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #62
DirtSquirrel
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Well, they are schedule 40 PVC, so plenty strong.
Ghetto Fab
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Those mounts are slick!
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- #64
DirtSquirrel
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Link mount mockup complete. Now to build the lower frame rails and finish out front tube work. Atlas supposedly shipped on Friday so it should be in this week. Starting to take shape.
What's the wheelbase set at now?
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- #66
DirtSquirrel
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114"
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- #67
DirtSquirrel
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Lower fame rails mocked up front and rear. Started to play with the front tubework a little with some scrap tubing. It will be 1.75. Lowers are 1.5.
this bad boy came in last week
Also bought one of these China warn RC knockoff winches yesterday. A ~1/4 the price of new, i will buy 4 of them if i need to.
this bad boy came in last week
Also bought one of these China warn RC knockoff winches yesterday. A ~1/4 the price of new, i will buy 4 of them if i need to.
whiterhino
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Never heard of that winch before. That's a damn good price for 9500.
I had a Runva for a backup NIB, my spotter bought it off me month to finish his build. The handful of people I know with it have had zero issues. Available from Home Depot for $530 shipped (when I bought it a year ago).
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- #70
DirtSquirrel
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Yep. I heard you talking about it this weekend at K2. Figured id give it a shot at the price point. Current pricing is ~$540-$599 plus taxes and shipping.
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- #71
DirtSquirrel
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What castor angle is good for the front? Im set at ~4-5 degrees in front and 0 in the rear at full bump. According to the calculator this is what the pinion change will be through the suspension's range of motion.
- Thread starter
- #72
DirtSquirrel
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Its starting to look like something. front of the chassis is bent up and tacked on. Rear is also tacked up now. No more ratchet straps holding tubes in place.
The Runva winch came in and i whipped up some mounts and put it in its place.
Made a little stinger to protect it. It will tie in to the top tubes on the chassis with some vertical tubes up front to act as a fairlead for the synthetic rope.
Other than the door bars, this should be the last bent piece of tube. The rest will be straight support tubes tying everything together in 1.5/1.25" diameter.
Next up is figuring out the shock placement and getting the drivetrain mounted up. I printed a 16" mockup up radflo shock on the table to use. Its coming along.
The Runva winch came in and i whipped up some mounts and put it in its place.
Made a little stinger to protect it. It will tie in to the top tubes on the chassis with some vertical tubes up front to act as a fairlead for the synthetic rope.
Other than the door bars, this should be the last bent piece of tube. The rest will be straight support tubes tying everything together in 1.5/1.25" diameter.
Next up is figuring out the shock placement and getting the drivetrain mounted up. I printed a 16" mockup up radflo shock on the table to use. Its coming along.
Looking good!
Caster.... my front is +5 degrees. I HAD the rear set at about +2, but later angled the upper ahead of the lower, so it's about -1 right now. My lower links are all RH thread, and uppers are LH/RH mixed, so it's "easy" to change if necessary.
Caster.... my front is +5 degrees. I HAD the rear set at about +2, but later angled the upper ahead of the lower, so it's about -1 right now. My lower links are all RH thread, and uppers are LH/RH mixed, so it's "easy" to change if necessary.
- Thread starter
- #74
DirtSquirrel
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Out with the old and in with the new. The mockup case served me well. I am going to have to delete the oil site tube to get the case to clear my subframe tube. I deleted on my last atlas with no ill effects.
The seat is as low as possible and basically resting on top of the case. I have plenty of headroom though even with a new not broken-in seat. so im happy there.
Front lower shock mounts at the axle. Due to limited space i decided to weld them to the C itself. They will be boxed inside and out for additional strength. A bonus is that i can still remove the lower link bolt.
Id really like to keep the upper shock mount inboard of the chassis and hopefully below the hood line. I hope they dont occupy the same space as the front radiator.
The seat is as low as possible and basically resting on top of the case. I have plenty of headroom though even with a new not broken-in seat. so im happy there.
Front lower shock mounts at the axle. Due to limited space i decided to weld them to the C itself. They will be boxed inside and out for additional strength. A bonus is that i can still remove the lower link bolt.
Id really like to keep the upper shock mount inboard of the chassis and hopefully below the hood line. I hope they dont occupy the same space as the front radiator.
That shock angle is pretty aggressive....IMO, you'll get better damping and control with it outside the tube. That far inboard will cause issues on sidehills with stability.
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- #76
DirtSquirrel
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Its definitely an aggressive angle.
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- #77
DirtSquirrel
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Found this on the internet.
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- #78
DirtSquirrel
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Woody, with the shocks mounted on the outside of the chassis on the JHF trail cars, have you had any issues with them being unprotected and bashing on some rocks? Thats my only hesitation.
I double back flipped mine, tweaked one front upper mount slightly. Zero issues otherwise.
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- #80
DirtSquirrel
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Welp, front shocks are tacked in inboard of the chassis rails. They are at a 33* angle and are close to 90* to the lower link from the side. I chatted with a few who have had shocks at this angle and they experienced no awkward side loading or weird stability issues. If it doesnt work, i can always mount them outside of the chassis. It only changed the angle about ~8-9* and would still be in the 24-25* range. So we will see what happens.
I lowered the axle mount about 1.5" on the C to where its at the bottom of the axle tube. I also moved it closer about 1/2" as whats shown below.
Im going to gusset them similar to how a buddy has his on his portal car. Similar concept.
Racecar shit
Ill still have plenty of room to fit a 20-22" wide radiator up front in between the mounts.
Going to get some of these stickers made for the china wench.
Moving on to the rear shock mounts next.
I lowered the axle mount about 1.5" on the C to where its at the bottom of the axle tube. I also moved it closer about 1/2" as whats shown below.
Im going to gusset them similar to how a buddy has his on his portal car. Similar concept.
Racecar shit
Ill still have plenty of room to fit a 20-22" wide radiator up front in between the mounts.
Going to get some of these stickers made for the china wench.
Moving on to the rear shock mounts next.
Blitz
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Looking good Alex.
- Thread starter
- #82
DirtSquirrel
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Started working on the rear upper shock mounts. Playing around with the design of these. They are close to fittting 100%, a little tweak here and there, but the overall concept will remain. The window may be changed to something else.
Ghetto Fab
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What length airshocks? I'd be worried about them hitting the lower frame rail on droop, but at least its an airshock and not a coilover. This is why I keep playing with CAD models, to see what hits and what fits.
Looking good!
Looking good!
- Thread starter
- #84
DirtSquirrel
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16s front and rear. They are a good way from the frame rails. I’ll keep them tacked and flex it out before finish welding just in case.
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- #85
DirtSquirrel
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a few more tubes added over the weekend. Front end is almost done with the exception of the tubes to tie-in the windshield bars.
Made a filler plate for the upper shock mounts in the back. Shreddy.
ill be headed offshore today for 5 weeks-ish so updates will be minimal. May order the gearworks 10s and hope they are in by the time i get back.
Made a filler plate for the upper shock mounts in the back. Shreddy.
ill be headed offshore today for 5 weeks-ish so updates will be minimal. May order the gearworks 10s and hope they are in by the time i get back.
Hopefully you can find an available ratio for Gearworks....read recently that 5.43's are backordered for more than a year.
Love the Shreddy!
Love the Shreddy!
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- #87
DirtSquirrel
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I read that about the 5.43s too. The quote i received from them said they would be available in 2 weeks, 3 weeks ago. Im afraid to go any lower to 5.83.Hopefully you can find an available ratio for Gearworks....read recently that 5.43's are backordered for more than a year.
Love the Shreddy!
- Thread starter
- #88
DirtSquirrel
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Found a set of 5.83 geared GW thirds NIB from a gentleman selling them. One less thing to buy and have to worry about being in stock.
pennsylvaniaboy
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- Mar 6, 2017
- 52
Are you modeling all this in bendtech or just sending it?
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- #90
DirtSquirrel
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I created a model in bend tech to start with and have been tweaking it as i go.