Build JHF Trail Chassis

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Now that I've watched the vid the switch makes sense.

Kinda curious, was the front always locked and the rear open for that whole run? I didn't see you messing with locker switches, but might have missed it.
 
Ghetto Fab said:
Now that I've watched the vid the switch makes sense.

Kinda curious, was the front always locked and the rear open for that whole run? I didn't see you messing with locker switches, but might have missed it.
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Front is a spool...lol

Rear was locked twice for short sections, otherwise open. 99% of the time it's unlocked.
 
Any reason you went with a spool besides cost? Do you think your loosing any advantage by not being able to unlock it? Sorry, I guess I'm gathering info for a future buggy build.

I like the fact that my toyota seems more nimble with its selectable lockers, but honestly the jeeps issue is mainly the welded rear. I don't notice the welded front at all and most of the time I noticed at sand hollow it steered better when I had the front engaged, even on the sections between obstacles. If a selectable front isn't needed then that saves a good chunk of money.
 
Ghetto Fab said:
Any reason you went with a spool besides cost? Do you think your loosing any advantage by not being able to unlock it? Sorry, I guess I'm gathering info for a future buggy build.

I like the fact that my toyota seems more nimble with its selectable lockers, but honestly the jeeps issue is mainly the welded rear. I don't notice the welded front at all and most of the time I noticed at sand hollow it steered better when I had the front engaged, even on the sections between obstacles. If a selectable front isn't needed then that saves a good chunk of money.
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I had selectable lockers front and rear on the FToy...with 8" diffs and 30 spline stuff, the ability to unlock the front was a necessity in a few situations to prevent binding and breakage. That is a MUCH smaller concern with the strength of the portals. Even with a selectable front, I likely unlocked it less than 1% of the time.

A locked rear is guaranteed to push you off lines (front locked OR open), especially if you cannot steer the rear. The spool is bulletproof and simple, and in 99% of situations I'd rather have NO rear locker at all (but use the cutting brakes). I learned the tricks with the FToy and it worked awesome. The FToy also didn't have front dig, so using 3WD (front locked, rear open) was very common, and you learned to position the front to pull you up obstacles.

If you watch the video close, you can see my right hand "disappear" to the dark spot left of the shifter (by my knee) to lock/unlock. Lock to push the entire car up then immediately unlock once everything started moving.

A selectable front IS nice for comps, offering even more options for running both unlocked, using the cutters to "lock" one side, turning both axles completely and effectively moving sideways to avoid a cone.

Now add in a pinion brake...front wheel drive, rear unlocked and disconnected, pinion locked....on a hard turn the rear tires actually spin opposite directions :)
'
The options are endless...simplicity for the win in a trail car :)

BTW: if the front tires are spinning at 1x and you are in 3wd with one rear tire "locked" using the cutting brakes, the opposite rear tire spins at 2x (cause that's how spider gears work) and even with high traction, the slower/locked side will help pivot the car as the opposite side tries to push harder :)
 
I've played quite a bit with my rear open and using the cutting brakes. I find that for Michigan wheeling with slippery conditions it works sometimes and others I would be better with the rear locked. It's kind of a crap shoot. On dry good traction features, open rear with cutting brakes works awesome.

With as much as I have talked with Woody about him using the cutting brakes all the time I was really excited to see the bird's eye view and watch him use them - which he didn't. LOL
So Woody, the challenge is on for you to get some video of cutting brake manipulation. :)
 
whiterhino said:
I've played quite a bit with my rear open and using the cutting brakes. I find that for Michigan wheeling with slippery conditions it works sometimes and others I would be better with the rear locked. It's kind of a crap shoot. On dry good traction features, open rear with cutting brakes works awesome.

With as much as I have talked with Woody about him using the cutting brakes all the time I was really excited to see the bird's eye view and watch him use them - which he didn't. LOL
So Woody, the challenge is on for you to get some video of cutting brake manipulation. :)
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That camera position works great, as soon as I get the lexan panels cut for both sides (or not installed at all) I'll get out and hit a few more that work with the cutters :)

That and the 12v is torn down for a heater core replacement....oh the joy....
 
Weighed the wheel/tire combo's....

148#: 42" MT02 on a 20" Raceline
428#: 42" MT02 on a 20" Raceline with water (valve stem 12:00)

So, that's 280# of water...560# total, which "drops" the car weight to 3440#....more in line with my estimates.

Also means I may drop some water/weight closer to 250# or less per tire....hmmm
 
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Did a short run up lower Chain Reaction yesterday....rain earlier in the week plus temps in the 40's (and shaded slopes) added to the challenge...

This climb is the "warmup" to Broken Chain...when it's less slick, you don't need to bump the drivers front up that additional foot-tall ledge at the top...but it helps :)

 
Still amazed at how stable this chassis is....ran the 2021 SuperCrawl Shootout lines, the 2021 TrailBreaker LCQ and the 2019 RedDot TrailBreaker course yesterday....this drop is part of RedDot, a full 10' undercut fall line for the drivers front. Cinched the rear winch down, dropped the line and then posed for a landing pic. I have SO much to learn on what this car can really do!

TrailBreaker2019.webp
 
woody said:
Still amazed at how stable this chassis is....ran the 2021 SuperCrawl Shootout lines, the 2021 TrailBreaker LCQ and the 2019 RedDot TrailBreaker course yesterday....this drop is part of RedDot, a full 10' undercut fall line for the drivers front. Cinched the rear winch down, dropped the line and then posed for a landing pic. I have SO much to learn on what this car can really do!

View attachment 15850
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Again the pictures just don't do justice !!!

It's funny how the 40&42" tires just look normal now 😜

The drop does not look that big inless you know those tires are 42s !!
 
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Broski said:
The drop does not look that big in less you know those tires are 42s !!
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TrailBreaker LCQ 2021 Stage 2 is a BACK in of similar height....dropping into the crack in reverse, then burning around to square up and drive thru :) No pics of mine, but THAT was sketchy. (pic of Michael Brassanini) - the drop in is above his drivers front tire... You can see where his drivers-side tires slid on the ledge that's 5' ABOVE his front tire....

brassanini.jpg
 
How's the lexan panel working? I had a piece of lexan 24" x 48" and it's like 4" too short to fit nicely. It's turning into a snow wheeling windshield though.
 
Just cut/bent the driver's side yesterday, and need more dzus fasteners to attach. Want to come up with a sticker/backer option too, still experimenting.

They look awesome tho 😎

20211216_093611.webp
 
MNorby said:
How's the lexan panel working? I had a piece of lexan 24" x 48" and it's like 4" too short to fit nicely. It's turning into a snow wheeling windshield though.
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Off topic, I got my hands on a UTV windshield that fit my cowl to roofline exactly perfect and I just had to cut it to match the A pillar taper. The nice part is that it has 90* bends top and bottom that make it stiff and creates a rain gutter. On top of that, it gives me a hand hold opening for climbing in and out. I'm a happy camper. :)
windshield.webp


windshield1.webp
 
MNorby said:
How's the lexan panel working? I had a piece of lexan 24" x 48" and it's like 4" too short to fit nicely. It's turning into a snow wheeling windshield though.
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BTW: I blame Jesse and his poor design for not allowing a 48" panel to work on the side....50" is dumb #engineeringfail 🤣

I've got my 5/16" lexan installed and am looking at ideas for doing a graphics panel behind the lexan (ie: Glen/Kimberly Plake style) Have a .030 24x48 roll of plastic ordered, will use that for partial wrapped/logo'd panels on each side. Passenger will "mimic" the seat area, drivers will "mimic" the driver silhouette, giving good visibility thru the panel on both sides from the drivers viewpoint, but offering some real estate for a few supporting companies.

CAD mockup on the drivers side ;)


20211216_161245.jpg
 
Has anyone tried using a wrap on the inside? It would be neat if you could just design up a wrap, print in mirror image then just apply to your lexan and be done.
 
Ghetto Fab said:
Has anyone tried using a wrap on the inside? It would be neat if you could just design up a wrap, print in mirror image then just apply to your lexan and be done.
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I considered that....still might. Does get a bit trickier when you aren't wrapping the entire panel tho. If I opt to do the hood, I'll definitely just do an inside-wrap

Those are usually screen printed graphics AND the vinyl has perforations so you can see thru it. That adds to the cost. I "think" those perforated graphics must be installed on the outside of the panel however in order to see thru them due to the white color of the backing material. Not positive however (I did have a custom pickup rear window screen for a while, could see right thru it)

Vinyl on a separate thin inside panel means the vinyl won't rub on the cage bars....betting it wouldn't last a month with the occasional cage contacts. Plus it means I could change inside graphics easily (or rotate thru a few options) and not need to modify the outside panel.
 
If it fits, it sits!

Yes, the Midnight just clears the seat, with sufficient skid clearance and "similar" clocking to the stock D300.

I'll start a new thread on assembling.... I got more updated pieces today, so a set of online instructions (or, "hey, you missed this step...) will be helpful.

20211229_153135.webp
 
woody said:
If it fits, it sits!

Yes, the Midnight just clears the seat, with sufficient skid clearance and "similar" clocking to the stock D300.

I'll start a new thread on assembling.... I got more updated pieces today, so a set of online instructions (or, "hey, you missed this step...) will be helpful.

View attachment 15934
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My next rig will definitely have one of their cases
 
Midnight Metalworks D300 installed....now to finish up shift linkages.

www.rockcrawler.com

Midnight Metalworks D300 Transfer Case

https://midnightmetalworks.com/ https://www.facebook.com/MidnightMetalworksUSA The stock Dana 300 works decently enough....but mine has always been a bear to shift, and even with the portals reducing the load to the case, they aren't known for strength. So, in comes the Midnight Metalworks...
www.rockcrawler.com www.rockcrawler.com

I DID have to oversize the two bolt holes for the 2-piece driveshaft pillow block...it was VERY close, but needed some massaging for line up. Tough to get clocking exactly identical to what came out.

20220105_121822.jpg
 
I took an opportunity today to show off my skid plates....

flop1.jpg


This happened at the gatekeeper for Skyscraper, the year 2 Trail Breaker. Rear needed to be a bit more right to catch the wall on that side, and it went over VERY quick. I hit reverse, but not fast enough. Had it shut off immediately after it landed in the soft sand. Spun it, winched it over, and it fired up easily with minimal smoke....despite being upside down for more than 5 minutes. Near-zero fluid loss (hood had a little on the underside....zero drips)

Turned around and hit it again, successfully.

Also had success on the ClusterF^ck obstacle, finally. In-car video later this week :)
 
woody said:
I took an opportunity today to show off my skid plates....

View attachment 16012

This happened at the gatekeeper for Skyscraper, the year 2 Trail Breaker. Rear needed to be a bit more right to catch the wall on that side, and it went over VERY quick. I hit reverse, but not fast enough. Had it shut off immediately after it landed in the soft sand. Spun it, winched it over, and it fired up easily with minimal smoke....despite being upside down for more than 5 minutes. Near-zero fluid loss (hood had a little on the underside....zero drips)

Turned around and hit it again, successfully.

Also had success on the ClusterF^ck obstacle, finally. In-car video later this week :)
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I was bummed I missed that 😎
 
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