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More adjustments...

Brakes have always been "ok" but never great....so decided to try out a Wilwood 2# residual valve to see if that makes a difference. Garage impressions are good, and the brakes don't hang either.

Amazon product ASIN B01GVIM8G8
Also, the master bore is 1-1/8" and the brakes would be better with a 1"....so if any brake changes happen down the road, I'll have a 1" bore master on hand to swap out.

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I'm a fan of swapping tires around, keeping the forward edge feathering the same but allowing the "new" sidewall to get some abuse too. I've got 3 months and 45ish days of wheeling on these Milestar MT02 42's, and they were due. The BeadBuster XB-550 was $250 on Amazon and allowed me to break inner beads in 5 minutes ea....did have to rotate around to 4-5 positions, but the effort level was minimal. HIGHLY recommended shop tool.

Amazon product ASIN B01ERQ68BC
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Took an aluminum disc to the rings too, cleaned up the inner edge....and look at those new sidewalls! Time to beat them....

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woody said:
More adjustments...

Brakes have always been "ok" but never great....so decided to try out a Wilwood 2# residual valve to see if that makes a difference. Garage impressions are good, and the brakes don't hang either.

Amazon product ASIN B01GVIM8G8
Also, the master bore is 1-1/8" and the brakes would be better with a 1"....so if any brake changes happen down the road, I'll have a 1" bore master on hand to swap out.

View attachment 16065


I'm a fan of swapping tires around, keeping the forward edge feathering the same but allowing the "new" sidewall to get some abuse too. I've got 3 months and 45ish days of wheeling on these Milestar MT02 42's, and they were due. The BeadBuster XB-550 was $250 on Amazon and allowed me to break inner beads in 5 minutes ea....did have to rotate around to 4-5 positions, but the effort level was minimal. HIGHLY recommended shop tool.

Amazon product ASIN B01ERQ68BC
View attachment 16066


Took an aluminum disc to the rings too, cleaned up the inner edge....and look at those new sidewalls! Time to beat them....

View attachment 16067
Click to expand...
Here is less expensive option for the bead breaking tool. I have used it extensively and have had absolutely no issues. Just throwing out another option:

Amazon.com: Esco 70160 Manual Bead Breaker : Automotive

Buy Esco 70160 Manual Bead Breaker: Tire Bead Breakers - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com
 
My hood and side panels are thick, so .650 Speedway #910-07114

I might use .550 on the hood....need to see what I have laying around.

My thin alum skins use the standard .400 length (I think.... LOL)
 
Damn....... went from (my use of embolden):
the Mityvac MV6840 is a damn beast, and made short work of getting the brakes perfect. Even the rear cutters are firm...HIGHLY recommended tool, every shop (or addicted enthusiast) should own one.
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to
Brakes have always been "ok" but never great....
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I need to learn how to not be so gullible;)🤣 But shoot, what is another tool added to an already crowded shop.
 
OldRocDoc said:
Damn....... went from (my use of embolden):

to

I need to learn how to not be so gullible;)🤣 But shoot, what is another tool added to an already crowded shop.
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Oh, I used the tool....again....pressure bleeding is the only way.

Brakes were awesome initially, but I suspect I had somewhere that was allowing air to intrude (likely the cutting brakes, but unsure)...did a full tighten of all fittings and did find a couple that weren't snug enough. Definitely better now, but will be doing re-bleeds anytime I do the tire rotations :)
 
MNorby said:
I used a 2 psi residual valve on mine and brakes feel pretty good. Did you have duct tape on your inner bead with that tool?
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No tape needed, the Milestar 42's are plenty tight on the inner beads of the 20" Raceline Avengers. I was surprised at how tight they were.
 
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Residual valve definitely helped me BEFORE I pressure bled the brakes. Now I don't know if I need it or not but it's there at the moment.

RE breaking beads, duramax driving up a board works pretty good for me.
 
whiterhino said:
Residual valve definitely helped me BEFORE I pressure bled the brakes. Now I don't know if I need it or not but it's there at the moment.

RE breaking beads, duramax driving up a board works pretty good for me.
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If I'm travelling, I prefer to be self-sufficient...and breaking beads with a 40' diesel pusher seems like a poor idea ;)
 
I've seen engine vacuum work wonders at breaking beads. Piece of vacuum hose around the valve stem to the intake manifold and just let the engine idle. Its not quick, but it eventually sucks the tire off the bead.

Nice to hear you didn't have any sidewall issues at KOH!
 
Ghetto Fab said:
I've seen engine vacuum work wonders at breaking beads. Piece of vacuum hose around the valve stem to the intake manifold and just let the engine idle. Its not quick, but it eventually sucks the tire off the bead.

Nice to hear you didn't have any sidewall issues at KOH!
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I've done it, including a video on FB. Worked perfectly with the wheel/tire combo on a friends rig....she was also burping air on the inner beads. A tighter inner bead will still beat the vacuum process (been there tried that)

Pretty cool to see a 40" tire turn into an airless cube tho :)
 
woody said:
Weighed the wheel/tire combo's....

148#: 42" MT02 on a 20" Raceline
428#: 42" MT02 on a 20" Raceline with water (valve stem 12:00)

So, that's 280# of water...560# total, which "drops" the car weight to 3440#....more in line with my estimates.

Also means I may drop some water/weight closer to 250# or less per tire....hmmm
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Did a "inside-out" tire rotation a couple weeks ago, and decided I'd needed corner scales enough times to just order a set.

OLD water was valve stem 12:00. NEW water was valve stem 10:00. Total weight on the fronts is now 370# ea (yes, I weighed them individually, they were only 8# difference so I added a little water to one)

Between that and the lighter Midnight 300 case, ready-to-run weight should be in the 3850# range now.
 
whiterhino said:
Having a discussion on another forum, with the gear reduction of the portals, why use CV joints? Packaging?
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Hummers came stock with CV's, so originally people simply used a stock CV. RCV already made an upgrade, so an easy swap. Now RCV makes a big-bell RCV (which is what I have). The latest is the D60-type RCV which offers 50 degree steering and still more strength (and cost too). Branik is now offering a u-joint solution for those who prefer that (at more cost).

Also, there is no "stuttering" when turning with a CV. U-joints speed/slow when at anything other than straight ahead. Some wheelers don't mind that (it's what every Jeep, Chevy, Dodge, etc all does) but as a Toyota owner who is used to to the consistent rotation of a CV, I'll stick to those.
 
I'd way rather have CVs over u-joints. The phasing issue is annoying. I have noticed my spooled u-joint front ends don't seem to do that though.

I thought the big bell RCV stuff was bigger than the normal D60 sized RCV cv joints? I can't imagine you'd need the strength with portals though? What steer angle do you get out of your curent CVs Woody?
 
Yeah the phasing makes sense but when I already have good axles and joints, I don't see the justification to change.
I broke an axle shaft a few years back and was ready to make a change to 300m RCV's but a lot of the guys on the rock crawler fb page were not too fond of them. I'd say 50/50 or 60/40. I went Branik instead.
 
Ghetto Fab said:
I thought the big bell RCV stuff was bigger than the normal D60 sized RCV cv joints? I can't imagine you'd need the strength with portals though? What steer angle do you get out of your curent CVs Woody?
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The standard D10609 CV's are good to 45 degrees. The D60 version (with orange boot) is 50 degrees. There ARE people breaking the D10609's and I know quite a few have broken the stock RCV replacement Hummer size (with 4340 guts, unsure on who has the 300M upgrade or how available it is)

Saw a pic the other day of a seriously bent Branik long side u-joint inner shaft.

Wheeled with a rig running the D60 RCV's with 50 degree steering....those click loudly from day one. I was shocked at how noisy they were...mine click, but not nearly that bad.

Jesse is no longer "supporting" the D10609 RCV's on his builds, which means there is also zero stock out there. So, since I'd like a spare, I ordered 30. 20 week lead time...and clearly I won't need all 30 of them. Hoping for June availability. RCV has obviously had material cost increases and their run minimums changed too. Talking them into only 30 took some convincing....
 
Minor adjustments.....

I had been using the ECU switching for the fan....however, it's a 5v ground circuit....when used with a 12v relay (wired for ground switching) it will eventually burn up those terminals (oops)

So my quick-fix was a $10 Amazon cheapo fan control sensor...claimed to turn on at 185 and off at 175....actually, on at 190-195 (gauge would climb to 210) and back off about 185-190. Dumb.

Upgraded today to a better quality Derale 16730 fan switch controller. Advertised at 180/165 and it actually came on around 185. Trail testing tomorrow, but the shop temp test worked perfectly. Also added a dash switch immediately next the ING toggle so I can turn it off (and actually hear people speaking without the fan running.....)
Amazon product ASIN B008VQGZAY
Have also ordered a pair of Carling 12v 20a switches to replace the two cheapo's I have installed now. And rubber booties too :)
Amazon product ASIN B07J5TLSD3
 
Running a 1" jama master with my jhf brakes and have been very happy with them once I got the stroke right. I've also had decent success reducing pedal travel with those in line pressure valves on my previous Toyota with cutting brakes. Looking good woody! I want to also change my fan control off the ecu.
 
I did the Spal+ brushless fan setup on mine. Completely stand alone and super quiet since it only ramps up fan speed to what is needed. I hear my small trans cooler fan but never the engine fan. Expensive but well worth it with the radiator directly behind you.
 
I like the fan switch idea. I wonder if there is a way to make an override at say, 210* just in case you forgot to flip the switch back on.

Maybe another temp sensor with separate power and a diode? 🤔
 
MNorby said:
I did the Spal+ brushless fan setup on mine. Completely stand alone and super quiet since it only ramps up fan speed to what is needed. I hear my small trans cooler fan but never the engine fan. Expensive but well worth it with the radiator directly behind you.
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What exact fan? Got a p/n?

My Google-foo isn't working today.....lol
 
ASTAR said:
I like the fan switch idea. I wonder if there is a way to make an override at say, 210* just in case you forgot to flip the switch back on.

Maybe another temp sensor with separate power and a diode? 🤔
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My IGN and FAN switches are less than 1" apart, so I'd like to think I won't forget...lol

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