Build JHF Trail Chassis

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Lakeside Blade said:
Hey Woody any idea when the 42inch Patagonia's will be available
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42" MT02 DOT's are scheduled to arrive end of July 2022 (confirmed recently, but who knows these days....). I hope to be testing a new 40" MT02 sticky/black label around then too.

I arguably wheel 3x a week and have worn 6/32" off the 19/32" they came with...for the terrain I wheel, just broke in :)
 
I read a comment somewhere that you added oil to your airshocks. Do you remember how many ccs you added front and rear?

Edit…nevermind. Was able to find it in here!
 
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Made another small tweak yesterday... cause radiators are hot...

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And more prep for WE Rock Unlimited....5 point harnesses and window nets - mount bars in place, need to stop by InStitches to get the custom nets measured and made.

Top bar is from GForce and is a GM clip style, bottom is 3/8 rod, slip into the back and thread into the front. (Idea stolen from SHO)

BTW, I shoulda ordered 5 points with the 2" lap....between the seats and my body size, 3" laps aren't too comfy....fortunately, they pop in/out easy enough so I can return to my PRP 4.2s for normal trail work.

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I know mud won't be an issue for you, but we had problems with the seatbelt latches not functioning great after a handful of races. I would imagine it would take a lot of dust to make them bad. We went to the duckbill latches and no worries.
 
JohnnyJ said:
I know mud won't be an issue for you, but we had problems with the seatbelt latches not functioning great after a handful of races. I would imagine it would take a lot of dust to make them bad. We went to the duckbill latches and no worries.
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80 wheeling minutes a weekend for 4-6 weekends a year....should be good, I hope... 😎
 
JohnnyJ said:
I know mud won't be an issue for you, but we had problems with the seatbelt latches not functioning great after a handful of races. I would imagine it would take a lot of dust to make them bad. We went to the duckbill latches and no worries.
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use to live and wheel in the midwest all the time. cam locks suck for that reason. never had a single issue with the latch style

Woody, I like that splash guard, thinking about adding one to mine as well
 
No video unfortunately....or, fortunately ;) I'm told the rig was completely in the air at least once....not sure I'd want to know ;)

We were on a new route called Bad Betty...the bypass/right side has been done by one other rig (Brent Jolley), but the left/crack side hadn't...two Red Dot's failed to even get TO the rock, so I made my attempt. I've got quite a bit of E coast loose boulder experience, so knowing how to land on a rock and then gently relocate it to where I wanted it helped....I changed the trail, but barely. Got the fronts up on the rocks (right bolder, left wall) and it started to hook and climb...and then the right rear plunged.


This is a pic of the cage on the drivers side above my head. One dent and 1/4" of deflection. Picking up a porta-power tomorrow and will get er straight.


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This is the center of the V-supported bar a the front/middle of the cage. Just a ding here. Entire roof is scarred from sliding, unsure if that was from the first or the 2nd flip. Either way, no other cage damage.

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This is a terrible pic of the motor mount drivers side where it attaches to the main chassis rail....which doubles as the water passage. It started "drooling" at the top of this weld point on Sunday after we finished a HARD boulder trail, and is already cleaned up and ready to be re-welded. Tricky spot since the header is right behind it.

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This is the NEW tiny front soft shackle...the one that was there broke. IF that broke on the initial climb, then it helped cause the flip. It may have also broke during. Unsure, but it's been replaced (and will be redone with a new pin-type setup in a few days)

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Ding on the passenger front "bumper" ahead of the winch.

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All that and a bent drivers front wheel (brakes are soft, but no rotor wobble or brake pulsing, so the mounting is likely still straight)

CRAZY that a roll this hard only caused this minimal damage. And luck that it stopped after two, there was easily room for two more before the bottom.

YES, I had my Axel helmet and PRP harnesses on...just like I always do, parking lot to parking lot without fail. Another wheeler did a simple front endo earlier in the day and wound up with 5 staples in his head. His Axel helmets were neatly strapped to his roll cage.

If you won't wear them parking lot to parking lot, then don't buy them. NO ONE says "hey, this might get dumb, lets stop and put on our harnesses and helmets"....NO ONE.

Sorry....rant over...helmets tied to the cage and shoulder harnesses laying loose behind the seats are quickly becoming a pet peeve....
 
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You definitely had a hard roll (or 2). I have seen your pics on FB and keep thinking about the person standing behind you. NOT a good place to be standing, but I chose not to say anything on FB. (don't want to be a drama queen)

I am a fan of wearing my helmet but can't say I ALWAYS wear it. But, I have been very good about stopping to put it on. Definitely a good practice to do.
 
Fixes today....
  • picked up a porta power and the cage above my head is straight (well, other than the dent...lol)
  • Took the TIG to the tube/leak and corrected that issue (new radiator pressure tester too)
  • Swapped front tires, determined that the $650 wheel is nearly perfect, but the $250 spindle is tweaked. Have one on order. Per Jesse, you need a spindle from a CTIS vehicle, has a clear radius by the splines. Spindle p/n 5715160
  • Updated hose clamps and some other misc stuff.
Rig is still wheelable, even with the bent spindle. Just need to put washers behind the wheel to keep it clear of the caliper (good short-term fix)

Fixing ANOTHER torn boot tmrw....yay! Trying a 4th option this time, see if they survive better (or worse....)
 
woody said:
Fixes today....
  • picked up a porta power and the cage above my head is straight (well, other than the dent...lol)
  • Took the TIG to the tube/leak and corrected that issue (new radiator pressure tester too)
  • Swapped front tires, determined that the $650 wheel is nearly perfect, but the $250 spindle is tweaked. Have one on order. Per Jesse, you need a spindle from a CTIS vehicle, has a clear radius by the splines. Spindle p/n 5715160
  • Updated hose clamps and some other misc stuff.
Rig is still wheelable, even with the bent spindle. Just need to put washers behind the wheel to keep it clear of the caliper (good short-term fix)

Fixing ANOTHER torn boot tmrw....yay! Trying a 4th option this time, see if they survive better (or worse....)
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glad to hear you're ok and the buggy took minimal damage. it's amazing how well a properly built cage works. I can't believe that I only had minimal damage with my backflip (broke a couple things, but chassis took it like a champ). 4600# being airborne and landing on the roof is a ton of force!
 
woody said:
No video unfortunately....or, fortunately ;) I'm told the rig was completely in the air at least once....not sure I'd want to know ;)

We were on a new route called Bad Betty...the bypass/right side has been done by one other rig (Brent Jolley), but the left/crack side hadn't...two Red Dot's failed to even get TO the rock, so I made my attempt. I've got quite a bit of E coast loose boulder experience, so knowing how to land on a rock and then gently relocate it to where I wanted it helped....I changed the trail, but barely. Got the fronts up on the rocks (right bolder, left wall) and it started to hook and climb...and then the right rear plunged.


This is a pic of the cage on the drivers side above my head. One dent and 1/4" of deflection. Picking up a porta-power tomorrow and will get er straight.


View attachment 16341


This is the center of the V-supported bar a the front/middle of the cage. Just a ding here. Entire roof is scarred from sliding, unsure if that was from the first or the 2nd flip. Either way, no other cage damage.

View attachment 16342


This is a terrible pic of the motor mount drivers side where it attaches to the main chassis rail....which doubles as the water passage. It started "drooling" at the top of this weld point on Sunday after we finished a HARD boulder trail, and is already cleaned up and ready to be re-welded. Tricky spot since the header is right behind it.

View attachment 16343


This is the NEW tiny front soft shackle...the one that was there broke. IF that broke on the initial climb, then it helped cause the flip. It may have also broke during. Unsure, but it's been replaced (and will be redone with a new pin-type setup in a few days)

View attachment 16344


Ding on the passenger front "bumper" ahead of the winch.

View attachment 16345


All that and a bent drivers front wheel (brakes are soft, but no rotor wobble or brake pulsing, so the mounting is likely still straight)

CRAZY that a roll this hard only caused this minimal damage. And luck that it stopped after two, there was easily room for two more before the bottom.

YES, I had my Axel helmet and PRP harnesses on...just like I always do, parking lot to parking lot without fail. Another wheeler did a simple front endo earlier in the day and wound up with 5 staples in his head. His Axel helmets were neatly strapped to his roll cage.

If you won't wear them parking lot to parking lot, then don't buy them. NO ONE says "hey, this might get dumb, lets stop and put on our harnesses and helmets"....NO ONE.

Sorry....rant over...helmets tied to the cage and shoulder harnesses laying loose behind the seats are quickly becoming a pet peeve....
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My axle helmet saved my skull from cracking. Still took 7 stitches through the helmet deflection. I spoke with Axle right after it happened and he sent me a new model asap. The new design seems to have better padding and with the ratchet adjustment it fits tighter.
Don’t think they are snell/dot certified though.
 
chaplinfj60 said:
how is this valve working ,

i am fighting the issue of puking fluid and i have the same thing, only happen on side hills
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I quickly tired of the misting oil.....ended up capping it off entirely, no venting. Fluid just barely covers the bolt-head that holds the filter in the reservoir. Haven't had any issues since.
 
thats my latest attempt to quit the puking i will find out this weekend. so that cap is a solid alum. so i drilled and tapped for 1/8 npt and threaded this air line 90 in, but i only drilled a super tiny hole at the base so it restricts the fluid but lets it the pressure bleed off. i have my psc valve on the opposite side of engine bay but mounted low i will mount it higher tonight.

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Woody, you should thread a pressure gauge in your lid just to see what the thermal expansion gets too. Would be interesting to know.

Here is my setup with a 10 psi pressure relief and a check valve to prevent vacuum after cool down. Can tell my steering quiets down after a few minutes fter it builds some pressure from cold. Mounted low so if it burps it doesn't make such a mess.


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