Build Thread JHF Trail Chassis

OldRocDoc

Spotter Required
Dec 26, 2016
43
Progress...

It runs!! Major unknown, since it was a 2nd hand engine....bit it appears to run smooth. TPS is likely on the new sensor list tho.

AND it steers! Still a bit of wiring to finish up, but the "hotwire" test passed.


View attachment 15563

And we have cooling fans and relays and stuff! With both fans next to the battery, running stand-alone for each made sense...the green wire is the negative switch for the radiator, and the trans is 100% standalone. Easy access if something needs to be bypassed too.

View attachment 15564


Chasing some cooling oddities yet....guessing I simply need to get the system 100% air free to solve it....but it ran for about :30 yesterday with no issues, and the cooling fan switched on at 220 (which is the factory setting...need to change that)
Great to see and hear it run on FB
 

woody

eternal noobie
Staff member
Oct 12, 2010
1,369
54
Toquerville UT
T-case installed....letting sealant cure a bit before filling.

PXL_20210813_213808779.jpg


Brake line plans are set...that's next up...and yes, that's a pressure switch for brake lights 😎

PXL_20210813_214037577.jpg
 

OldRocDoc

Spotter Required
Dec 26, 2016
43
May I ask what happened with the Midnight Metalworks T-case? I have one good friend who has some issues with the shifters....just curious🤓
 
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MNorby

Spotter Required
Dec 31, 2016
110
What brand brake kit you using? I had 2 different kits on my old buggy and one had thicker wall tubing. I had the thinner wall ones blow out a few times, easy to splice. I need to dig out a few pieces of the kits, it was just a Parker tube they used.

Also I am doing a mechanical brake switch on this rig. Old buggy had pressure like that and it failed and changing is easy but bleeding brakes again sucks. Mechanical seems much easier.

20210619_201312.jpg
 

woody

eternal noobie
Staff member
Oct 12, 2010
1,369
54
Toquerville UT
May I ask what happened with the Midnight Metalworks T-case? I have one good friend who has some issues with the shifters....just curious🤓
Short answer: there were supposed to be 3 prototype cases....mine, Rich's, Jesse's...and they are way wrong....AND MM jumped the gun badly on production. So....
 

MNorby

Spotter Required
Dec 31, 2016
110
This was the better stuff if I remember right:
Parker parflex N 3/16 OD x .046 Wall UL94HB 0015210514

The other tubing that I had a failure with was:
Newage Industries nylotube - 12 .117 x .187 70655/12

Both came in those lightweight brake line kits.

20210813_202414.jpg
 
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woody

eternal noobie
Staff member
Oct 12, 2010
1,369
54
Toquerville UT
great idea on the res cap :cool:
Stolen from Dave Wong :)

Simply used the bandsaw to trim off the mounting ears, then some silicone-soaked sandpaper on the 1" bench sander/finisher to "smooth"....then a 1/8" brass shorty fitting to connect the two. Viola! With it being so close to the "windshield" area, it should be spared damage.

"should"
 

woody

eternal noobie
Staff member
Oct 12, 2010
1,369
54
Toquerville UT
Moving forward, moving back...


First, finally figured out routing and all that for the throttle pedal....not sure why this was so hard for me, but I purchased a few, made a few, and finally combined a couple ideas into one simple one. Just need to mount the bracket and cut the cable and it should be set.

PXL_20210817_230459893.jpg



Also, pro tip: when you make power steering hoses, be SURE the hose, the fittings, and the crimp machine are compatible....ideally, the same brand. My hose/fittings matched, but the professional crimp machine I used was not compatible...so, new Aeroquip reusable fittings and hose were ordered today from hosewarehouse.com

I decided one failed crimp meant I didn't trust any of them...$350ish later and they match AND are a product I've used without issue in the past.

PXL_20210817_181405934.jpg


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MNorby

Spotter Required
Dec 31, 2016
110
I've always used field serviceable fittings with never a problem. Be sure to get 2 wire fittings for 2 wire hose. I have heard people have problems with them and thought about just doing crimps this time around but you have me thinking to just go with what I'm used to.
 

1tfrot

Loves Light Bars
Nov 9, 2020
13
AZ
Stolen from Dave Wong :)

Simply used the bandsaw to trim off the mounting ears, then some silicone-soaked sandpaper on the 1" bench sander/finisher to "smooth"....then a 1/8" brass shorty fitting to connect the two. Viola! With it being so close to the "windshield" area, it should be spared damage.

"should"
definitely gonna see if I have the room to do that. frees up a little space as well
 

woody

eternal noobie
Staff member
Oct 12, 2010
1,369
54
Toquerville UT
Factor55 UTV fairlead ready...small and simple, and with the 50' of JM Rigging 5/16 line, the perfect fit.

PXL_20210910_234445078.jpg



ARB compressor and rear winch solenoid mocked...would like to get the compressor a "bit" further from the muffler, so playing with ideas still. 2" gap is cozy.

PXL_20210910_234456395.jpg



T-case shifters and cutting brake line plans...tee fitting to split between front/rear.

PXL_20210910_234534712.jpg



And the front line lock is mocked up, resides below the passenger floor pan, easy routing for lines and wires.

PXL_20210910_234930020.jpg
 
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woody

eternal noobie
Staff member
Oct 12, 2010
1,369
54
Toquerville UT
Rear winch solenoid plus the ARB compressor was too cozy...so relocated the winch solenoid box further forward, under the drivers feet. Power will come from the starter. Great spot for it.

PXL_20210911_174401833.jpg



Which means the ARB compressor could move up/back and have plenty of room and air.

PXL_20210911_174409715.jpg



ARB line and rear winch power lines attached to the upper drivers side link. Need to shorten the yellow/blue winch wires slightly.

PXL_20210911_174414989.jpg



Left/Right brake lines and rear diff breather, zip tied to the rear steer lines on the upper passenger side link. Clear lines make it easy to see brake fluid OR see if any fluid exited the diff.

PXL_20210911_174426383.jpg



Single front brake line and clear diff breather line.

PXL_20210911_174446458.jpg
 
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woody

eternal noobie
Staff member
Oct 12, 2010
1,369
54
Toquerville UT
DOT4 has been gravity-bled into the brakes. Need an assistant to pressure bleed, and I know Clibon has some bling-bling bleeder that I need to use.

Front/rear 8" diffs each have about 2-1/2 quarts of 75w-90 lube.

Portal boxes also lubed....4 portals takes 3 quarts of 75w-90. EDIT: According to Jesse, the boxes required only a pint of fluid. So, mine are now overfilled.

I used some sintered bronze things on the portal boxes for breathers....I know some guys run nothing and let them weep at the seals, others run full lines, others run the rubber snowmobile boot bellows. We'll see how these work.

PXL_20210911_193305546.jpg



Rear winch needs to be wired... ARB compressor needs to be wired... Front line lock needs to be wired... Trans dipstick needs to get some sort of mount... Panels need to be re-test-fit and see what else needs tweaking... All tunnel panels need the insulation stuck on... Roof needs it's insulation/headliner stuck on... Muffler needs to be wrapped... Fairlead tabs for front winch needs to be welded on... Engine skid needs to be designed/installed... Need to do a bolt-check and see what I missed...

So close...
 
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woody

eternal noobie
Staff member
Oct 12, 2010
1,369
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Toquerville UT
So, HUGE props to Jeff Clibon for his assistance today with brake bleeding...the Mityvac MV6840 is a damn beast, and made short work of getting the brakes perfect. Even the rear cutters are firm...HIGHLY recommended tool, every shop (or addicted enthusiast) should own one. We DID have to make a custom cap setup for the Wilwood remote resi, but that only required a 6mm drill and some pipe sealant.

Also huge props to two local shops: Sasquatch Motorsports has a FULL set of Eaton hydraulic stuff and can make your lines on sight. VERY useful for anyone needing a replacement...I was their first victim...er, customer, and they turned out perfect :)

Steve with Sand Hollow Offroad has also been a huge help, little things and advice, and letting me wander thru his shop looking at ideas and trying to come up with something that works for my setup.

Next up, front axle inner seals....my drivers front leaked out $30 in synthetic to the shop floor...so yay me! That comes apart tomorrow....FML...and my apologies to @Lil Rich - I stole your seals :D
 

MNorby

Spotter Required
Dec 31, 2016
110
Did you do anything to your seals during install? I filled the void between the lips with grease and greased the o rings and the ramp for the shaft to help with install.
 

woody

eternal noobie
Staff member
Oct 12, 2010
1,369
54
Toquerville UT
This was the first one I put in....clearly, I f'd it up....lol

The tube on that side has a rough edge....I'm blaming that, but more likely operator error....ah well


Rumor has it, SealsIt has rebuild kits....has anyone used them and know the p/n?

PXL_20210914_013831301.jpg


PXL_20210914_013921818.PORTRAIT.jpg
 

MNorby

Spotter Required
Dec 31, 2016
110
So the actual shaft seals are ok, just cut the outer orings? Should be easy enough to find at a parts store or equipment dealer. I felt some rough spots on the inside of my axle tubes and used a half round bastard to smooth them out before installing seals on my rear axle. Hoping front is OK now since didn't feel in there prior to seal install first.
 

woody

eternal noobie
Staff member
Oct 12, 2010
1,369
54
Toquerville UT
So the actual shaft seals are ok, just cut the outer orings? Should be easy enough to find at a parts store or equipment dealer. I felt some rough spots on the inside of my axle tubes and used a half round bastard to smooth them out before installing seals on my rear axle. Hoping front is OK now since didn't feel in there prior to seal install first.
Correct, shaft seals were fine. I had greased the shaft seals AND the shaft with some moly, so I was "pretty sure" they were okay....I'd also moly'd the o-rings, but clearly I caught one...er, two. The outer was torn, and the middle was wedged and "offset" the seals just enough to drool the lube.


The fix is SUPER easy since I have already stolen two rings off Rich's that he hasn't installed....lol Hdwe store run tomorrow after a 9am breakfast with Jeff at StageCoach :D
 

whiterhino

Spotter Required
Nov 10, 2020
41
michigan
So, HUGE props to Jeff Clibon for his assistance today with brake bleeding...the Mityvac MV6840 is a damn beast, and made short work of getting the brakes perfect. Even the rear cutters are firm...HIGHLY recommended tool, every shop (or addicted enthusiast) should own one. We DID have to make a custom cap setup for the Wilwood remote resi, but that only required a 6mm drill and some pipe sealant.

Also huge props to two local shops: Sasquatch Motorsports has a FULL set of Eaton hydraulic stuff and can make your lines on sight. VERY useful for anyone needing a replacement...I was their first victim...er, customer, and they turned out perfect :)

Steve with Sand Hollow Offroad has also been a huge help, little things and advice, and letting me wander thru his shop looking at ideas and trying to come up with something that works for my setup.

Next up, front axle inner seals....my drivers front leaked out $30 in synthetic to the shop floor...so yay me! That comes apart tomorrow....FML...and my apologies to @Lil Rich - I stole your seals :D
I need to check out the Mityvac. My cheap Harbor Freight brake bleeder doesn't seem to be doing the trick on my cutting brakes. They work OK but I need to apply pedal brake pressure first, apply the hand brake and let off the pedal to get really good corner braking.
 

woody

eternal noobie
Staff member
Oct 12, 2010
1,369
54
Toquerville UT
More pics of things....since I'm now waiting on the correct rear steer valve... FML


Passenger footwell....not thrilled with my trimming around the air cleaner, the position had to change a bit from the original plan. Works for now.

PXL_20210916_023332171.jpg



Fire extinguisher 1...passenger side by fuel cell. Not sure where #2 will reside, but needs to be driver reachable. Haloguard ain't cheap, but the buggy ain't either...

PXL_20210916_023338650.jpg



Drivers footwell, showing pedals. Overall happy with this setup.
PXL_20210916_023446903.jpg



Not happy that the throttle cable blocks this gauge position....time to redo...

PXL_20210916_023458179.jpg



Skid bolted up perfectly....AR450, plasma cut holes 😎

PXL_20210916_023516946.jpg
 
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