OldRocDoc
Spotter Required
- Dec 26, 2016
- 54
Great to see and hear it run on FB
Build JHF Trail Chassis
- Thread starter woody
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #212
T-case installed....letting sealant cure a bit before filling.
Brake line plans are set...that's next up...and yes, that's a pressure switch for brake lights
Brake line plans are set...that's next up...and yes, that's a pressure switch for brake lights
- Thread starter
- #213
Direct-mounted the PSC pressure valve to the reservoir cap
OldRocDoc
Spotter Required
- Dec 26, 2016
- 54
May I ask what happened with the Midnight Metalworks T-case? I have one good friend who has some issues with the shifters....just curious
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SteerAndStuff
Spotter Required
What brand brake kit you using? I had 2 different kits on my old buggy and one had thicker wall tubing. I had the thinner wall ones blow out a few times, easy to splice. I need to dig out a few pieces of the kits, it was just a Parker tube they used.
Also I am doing a mechanical brake switch on this rig. Old buggy had pressure like that and it failed and changing is easy but bleeding brakes again sucks. Mechanical seems much easier.
Also I am doing a mechanical brake switch on this rig. Old buggy had pressure like that and it failed and changing is easy but bleeding brakes again sucks. Mechanical seems much easier.
- Thread starter
- #216
Short answer: there were supposed to be 3 prototype cases....mine, Rich's, Jesse's...and they are way wrong....AND MM jumped the gun badly on production. So....May I ask what happened with the Midnight Metalworks T-case? I have one good friend who has some issues with the shifters....just curious
SteerAndStuff
Spotter Required
This was the better stuff if I remember right:
Parker parflex N 3/16 OD x .046 Wall UL94HB 0015210514
The other tubing that I had a failure with was:
Newage Industries nylotube - 12 .117 x .187 70655/12
Both came in those lightweight brake line kits.
Parker parflex N 3/16 OD x .046 Wall UL94HB 0015210514
The other tubing that I had a failure with was:
Newage Industries nylotube - 12 .117 x .187 70655/12
Both came in those lightweight brake line kits.
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- Thread starter
- #219
Stolen from Dave Wonggreat idea on the res cap
Simply used the bandsaw to trim off the mounting ears, then some silicone-soaked sandpaper on the 1" bench sander/finisher to "smooth"....then a 1/8" brass shorty fitting to connect the two. Viola! With it being so close to the "windshield" area, it should be spared damage.
"should"
- Thread starter
- #220
Moving forward, moving back...
First, finally figured out routing and all that for the throttle pedal....not sure why this was so hard for me, but I purchased a few, made a few, and finally combined a couple ideas into one simple one. Just need to mount the bracket and cut the cable and it should be set.
Also, pro tip: when you make power steering hoses, be SURE the hose, the fittings, and the crimp machine are compatible....ideally, the same brand. My hose/fittings matched, but the professional crimp machine I used was not compatible...so, new Aeroquip reusable fittings and hose were ordered today from hosewarehouse.com
I decided one failed crimp meant I didn't trust any of them...$350ish later and they match AND are a product I've used without issue in the past.
First, finally figured out routing and all that for the throttle pedal....not sure why this was so hard for me, but I purchased a few, made a few, and finally combined a couple ideas into one simple one. Just need to mount the bracket and cut the cable and it should be set.
Also, pro tip: when you make power steering hoses, be SURE the hose, the fittings, and the crimp machine are compatible....ideally, the same brand. My hose/fittings matched, but the professional crimp machine I used was not compatible...so, new Aeroquip reusable fittings and hose were ordered today from hosewarehouse.com
I decided one failed crimp meant I didn't trust any of them...$350ish later and they match AND are a product I've used without issue in the past.
SteerAndStuff
Spotter Required
I've always used field serviceable fittings with never a problem. Be sure to get 2 wire fittings for 2 wire hose. I have heard people have problems with them and thought about just doing crimps this time around but you have me thinking to just go with what I'm used to.
whiterhino
Wheel'in since 1976
getting close - looking good
definitely gonna see if I have the room to do that. frees up a little space as wellStolen from Dave Wong
Simply used the bandsaw to trim off the mounting ears, then some silicone-soaked sandpaper on the 1" bench sander/finisher to "smooth"....then a 1/8" brass shorty fitting to connect the two. Viola! With it being so close to the "windshield" area, it should be spared damage.
"should"
- Thread starter
- #224
I'm told PSC does sell them this way already...might need to call to order.
- Thread starter
- #225
Factor55 UTV fairlead ready...small and simple, and with the 50' of JM Rigging 5/16 line, the perfect fit.
ARB compressor and rear winch solenoid mocked...would like to get the compressor a "bit" further from the muffler, so playing with ideas still. 2" gap is cozy.
T-case shifters and cutting brake line plans...tee fitting to split between front/rear.
And the front line lock is mocked up, resides below the passenger floor pan, easy routing for lines and wires.
ARB compressor and rear winch solenoid mocked...would like to get the compressor a "bit" further from the muffler, so playing with ideas still. 2" gap is cozy.
T-case shifters and cutting brake line plans...tee fitting to split between front/rear.
And the front line lock is mocked up, resides below the passenger floor pan, easy routing for lines and wires.
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Broski
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Getting There !!
knapp870
Spotter Required
Three weeks till TH!! No pressure 
- Thread starter
- #228
Rear winch solenoid plus the ARB compressor was too cozy...so relocated the winch solenoid box further forward, under the drivers feet. Power will come from the starter. Great spot for it.
Which means the ARB compressor could move up/back and have plenty of room and air.
ARB line and rear winch power lines attached to the upper drivers side link. Need to shorten the yellow/blue winch wires slightly.
Left/Right brake lines and rear diff breather, zip tied to the rear steer lines on the upper passenger side link. Clear lines make it easy to see brake fluid OR see if any fluid exited the diff.
Single front brake line and clear diff breather line.
Which means the ARB compressor could move up/back and have plenty of room and air.
ARB line and rear winch power lines attached to the upper drivers side link. Need to shorten the yellow/blue winch wires slightly.
Left/Right brake lines and rear diff breather, zip tied to the rear steer lines on the upper passenger side link. Clear lines make it easy to see brake fluid OR see if any fluid exited the diff.
Single front brake line and clear diff breather line.
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- Thread starter
- #229
DOT4 has been gravity-bled into the brakes. Need an assistant to pressure bleed, and I know Clibon has some bling-bling bleeder that I need to use.
Front/rear 8" diffs each have about 2-1/2 quarts of 75w-90 lube.
Portal boxes also lubed....4 portals takes 3 quarts of 75w-90. EDIT: According to Jesse, the boxes required only a pint of fluid. So, mine are now overfilled.
I used some sintered bronze things on the portal boxes for breathers....I know some guys run nothing and let them weep at the seals, others run full lines, others run the rubber snowmobile boot bellows. We'll see how these work.
Rear winch needs to be wired... ARB compressor needs to be wired... Front line lock needs to be wired... Trans dipstick needs to get some sort of mount... Panels need to be re-test-fit and see what else needs tweaking... All tunnel panels need the insulation stuck on... Roof needs it's insulation/headliner stuck on... Muffler needs to be wrapped... Fairlead tabs for front winch needs to be welded on... Engine skid needs to be designed/installed... Need to do a bolt-check and see what I missed...
So close...
Front/rear 8" diffs each have about 2-1/2 quarts of 75w-90 lube.
Portal boxes also lubed....4 portals takes 3 quarts of 75w-90. EDIT: According to Jesse, the boxes required only a pint of fluid. So, mine are now overfilled.
I used some sintered bronze things on the portal boxes for breathers....I know some guys run nothing and let them weep at the seals, others run full lines, others run the rubber snowmobile boot bellows. We'll see how these work.
Rear winch needs to be wired... ARB compressor needs to be wired... Front line lock needs to be wired... Trans dipstick needs to get some sort of mount... Panels need to be re-test-fit and see what else needs tweaking... All tunnel panels need the insulation stuck on... Roof needs it's insulation/headliner stuck on... Muffler needs to be wrapped... Fairlead tabs for front winch needs to be welded on... Engine skid needs to be designed/installed... Need to do a bolt-check and see what I missed...
So close...
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CartoTracks
Loves Light Bars
- Dec 8, 2016
- 11
Looking great!
Can't wait to see it in person soon.
That stinks about the hydraulic lines. Lesson learned.....
Can't wait to see it in person soon.
That stinks about the hydraulic lines. Lesson learned.....
- Thread starter
- #231
So, HUGE props to Jeff Clibon for his assistance today with brake bleeding...the Mityvac MV6840 is a damn beast, and made short work of getting the brakes perfect. Even the rear cutters are firm...HIGHLY recommended tool, every shop (or addicted enthusiast) should own one. We DID have to make a custom cap setup for the Wilwood remote resi, but that only required a 6mm drill and some pipe sealant.
Also huge props to two local shops: Sasquatch Motorsports has a FULL set of Eaton hydraulic stuff and can make your lines on sight. VERY useful for anyone needing a replacement...I was their first victim...er, customer, and they turned out perfect
Steve with Sand Hollow Offroad has also been a huge help, little things and advice, and letting me wander thru his shop looking at ideas and trying to come up with something that works for my setup.
Next up, front axle inner seals....my drivers front leaked out $30 in synthetic to the shop floor...so yay me! That comes apart tomorrow....FML...and my apologies to @Lil Rich - I stole your seals
Also huge props to two local shops: Sasquatch Motorsports has a FULL set of Eaton hydraulic stuff and can make your lines on sight. VERY useful for anyone needing a replacement...I was their first victim...er, customer, and they turned out perfect
Steve with Sand Hollow Offroad has also been a huge help, little things and advice, and letting me wander thru his shop looking at ideas and trying to come up with something that works for my setup.
Next up, front axle inner seals....my drivers front leaked out $30 in synthetic to the shop floor...so yay me! That comes apart tomorrow....FML...and my apologies to @Lil Rich - I stole your seals
SteerAndStuff
Spotter Required
Did you do anything to your seals during install? I filled the void between the lips with grease and greased the o rings and the ramp for the shaft to help with install.
knapp870
Spotter Required
I had a TG seal leak when I neglected to tighten the allen head set screw on a set of 9" 
Otherwise I've had good luck with them.
Otherwise I've had good luck with them.- Thread starter
- #234
This was the first one I put in....clearly, I f'd it up....lol
The tube on that side has a rough edge....I'm blaming that, but more likely operator error....ah well
Rumor has it, SealsIt has rebuild kits....has anyone used them and know the p/n?
The tube on that side has a rough edge....I'm blaming that, but more likely operator error....ah well
Rumor has it, SealsIt has rebuild kits....has anyone used them and know the p/n?
SteerAndStuff
Spotter Required
So the actual shaft seals are ok, just cut the outer orings? Should be easy enough to find at a parts store or equipment dealer. I felt some rough spots on the inside of my axle tubes and used a half round bastard to smooth them out before installing seals on my rear axle. Hoping front is OK now since didn't feel in there prior to seal install first.
- Thread starter
- #236
Correct, shaft seals were fine. I had greased the shaft seals AND the shaft with some moly, so I was "pretty sure" they were okay....I'd also moly'd the o-rings, but clearly I caught one...er, two. The outer was torn, and the middle was wedged and "offset" the seals just enough to drool the lube.
The fix is SUPER easy since I have already stolen two rings off Rich's that he hasn't installed....lol Hdwe store run tomorrow after a 9am breakfast with Jeff at StageCoach
whiterhino
Wheel'in since 1976
I need to check out the Mityvac. My cheap Harbor Freight brake bleeder doesn't seem to be doing the trick on my cutting brakes. They work OK but I need to apply pedal brake pressure first, apply the hand brake and let off the pedal to get really good corner braking.So, HUGE props to Jeff Clibon for his assistance today with brake bleeding...the Mityvac MV6840 is a damn beast, and made short work of getting the brakes perfect. Even the rear cutters are firm...HIGHLY recommended tool, every shop (or addicted enthusiast) should own one. We DID have to make a custom cap setup for the Wilwood remote resi, but that only required a 6mm drill and some pipe sealant.
Also huge props to two local shops: Sasquatch Motorsports has a FULL set of Eaton hydraulic stuff and can make your lines on sight. VERY useful for anyone needing a replacement...I was their first victim...er, customer, and they turned out perfect
Steve with Sand Hollow Offroad has also been a huge help, little things and advice, and letting me wander thru his shop looking at ideas and trying to come up with something that works for my setup.
Next up, front axle inner seals....my drivers front leaked out $30 in synthetic to the shop floor...so yay me! That comes apart tomorrow....FML...and my apologies to @Lil Rich - I stole your seals
- Thread starter
- #238
Getting fancy....
If you've been paying attention, you'll also note it's facing the other way in the lift ..drove it on the street a bit this aft.... Nothing fell off, which is nice...
If you've been paying attention, you'll also note it's facing the other way in the lift ..drove it on the street a bit this aft.... Nothing fell off, which is nice...
OldRocDoc
Spotter Required
- Dec 26, 2016
- 54
Anxious to follow in awe
- Thread starter
- #240
More pics of things....since I'm now waiting on the correct rear steer valve... FML
Passenger footwell....not thrilled with my trimming around the air cleaner, the position had to change a bit from the original plan. Works for now.
Fire extinguisher 1...passenger side by fuel cell. Not sure where #2 will reside, but needs to be driver reachable. Haloguard ain't cheap, but the buggy ain't either...
Drivers footwell, showing pedals. Overall happy with this setup.
Not happy that the throttle cable blocks this gauge position....time to redo...
Skid bolted up perfectly....AR450, plasma cut holes
Passenger footwell....not thrilled with my trimming around the air cleaner, the position had to change a bit from the original plan. Works for now.
Fire extinguisher 1...passenger side by fuel cell. Not sure where #2 will reside, but needs to be driver reachable. Haloguard ain't cheap, but the buggy ain't either...
Drivers footwell, showing pedals. Overall happy with this setup.
Not happy that the throttle cable blocks this gauge position....time to redo...
Skid bolted up perfectly....AR450, plasma cut holes