Build Thread JHF Trail Chassis

woody

eternal noobie
Staff member
Oct 12, 2010
1,308
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Toquerville UT
Next up, the mount for the remote brake reservoir.

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woody

eternal noobie
Staff member
Oct 12, 2010
1,308
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Toquerville UT
More exhaust....ordered the "longer" Flowmaster HP2 today, should deliver within a week. Better than mid June like it's shorter cousin. This necessitated some adjustments to the exhaust routing, but it will work much nicer now. The collector will be immediately below the driver floor pan, muffler under the drivers seat.

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Ran the braided lines for the trans cooler as well....-8 outta work. May need to shorten one just a bit, and planning a couple mount brackets to keep them positoned.

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Also started running the fuel lines....filter should arrive early in the week, and pump/filter brackets. Both will locate below the passenger seat. Lots of room and sufficient airflow to keep them cool.

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woody

eternal noobie
Staff member
Oct 12, 2010
1,308
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Toquerville UT
Throttle pedal....first off, space is TIGHT. I won't be wearing hiking boots, or even my shop shoes. Unless you have cinderella feet, expect your shoe soles to be touching, or worse.

I could find no reason to keep the pedal parallel to the brake pedal...that leg will rest against the firewall/tunnel and that keeps my right foot angled. Ergonomically, it feels pretty damn good.

The black line is where the rod will curve thru a slot in the panel, allowing the cable to be behind. The pedal maintains a consistent distance thru the arc, and the 2'ish movement at that arc perfectly matches the throttle body.

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woody

eternal noobie
Staff member
Oct 12, 2010
1,308
54
Toquerville UT
Flowmaster HP2 arrived, mounts are tacked, collector is tacked...now where are those magic elves to connect everything?!?

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8an TuffCover hoses are now cut and ready to crimp. (pump > valve > orbital > return) - 6an are used to the rams.

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woody

eternal noobie
Staff member
Oct 12, 2010
1,308
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Toquerville UT
Fun with wiring...

So, the computer and harness were "cleaned up" and flashed by JimsPerformance.com - however, the alternator wire was wrapped inside the loom, as were a few other things, so it needed to be un-wrapped and cleaned up. Working on ideas for the computer placement, just ahead of the motor/behind the winch is a good option. However, that means the entire harness is about 36" too long, and will need to be trimmed back. Additionally, the harness includes 5 fuses (one block of 4, and one inline) and I'd prefer it all be contained in the fuse block I will install in the dash area. So, this will be fun....

Additionally, there is one random unmarked connector....I'm "guessing" it's for the fan, but haven't yet chased it down. black/yellow/green wires, and (of course) the green dead-ends in the middle of the harness.

Thus far, not impressed....but if the flash is workable, then it's a good starting point.

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Added 2 relays on the battery box, close/easy for the fan switching. Using Molex connectors to hook this stuff up. Military terminals on the battery too. Still lots to do, and waiting on some smaller diameter braided loom before I wrap anything up.

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woody

eternal noobie
Staff member
Oct 12, 2010
1,308
54
Toquerville UT
Ditching the crappy plastic loom and going with split braid...easier routing and much cleaner looking.

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Re-cut the coil pack mount, needed to add clearance from the engine.

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Fuel filter/pump bracket is cut and placed....easy access below the passenger seat, good airflow for cooling and well protected.

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Manja

Loves Light Bars
May 4, 2021
1
Lakeside Ca.
Woody, Where did you purchase your Rear steer valve?

Thanks for taking the time to post your build thread. Lots of cool ideas. Really miss all the old build threads from years ago.
 

woody

eternal noobie
Staff member
Oct 12, 2010
1,308
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Toquerville UT
Woody, Where did you purchase your Rear steer valve?
Believe it or not, Amazon....arguably, pricing was identical everywhere.
Amazon product
The unit I got uses Deutsch connectors...."normal" wire leads might have been easier to deal with. (hindsight....)

Do make sure whatever you find is an "open" center....flow path is Pump > rear steer valve > orbital > cooler > reservoir
 

woody

eternal noobie
Staff member
Oct 12, 2010
1,308
54
Toquerville UT
A few updates...

Hydraulic hoses are cut and ready for crimping. May get that done tomorrow. This is the front at full droop, and full stuff.

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Flex pipe and exhaust routing finally done....next up, welding (yay?)

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Also dropped off the radiator and coolant return by Sand Hollow Offroad and had Steve tig up some 16an fittings....he does NICE work :)

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woody

eternal noobie
Staff member
Oct 12, 2010
1,308
54
Toquerville UT
HUGE thanks to Slade at SDM for the crimp work!

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WARN winch control box...longer 1ga positive plus wiring for the dash switch.

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Flowmaster muffler and tig'd exhaust is painted w/ VHT Header/Ceramic - ready to wrap.

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woody

eternal noobie
Staff member
Oct 12, 2010
1,308
54
Toquerville UT
ECM mounting started...passenger side fender well. Harness routing is perfect, plenty of fresh air to keep it cool, easy access, AND doesn't block visibility.

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badgeroo7

Loves Light Bars
Oct 22, 2020
8
georgia
Ditching the crappy plastic loom and going with split braid...easier routing and much cleaner looking.

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Re-cut the coil pack mount, needed to add clearance from the engine.

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Fuel filter/pump bracket is cut and placed....easy access below the passenger seat, good airflow for cooling and well protected.

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What fuel pump and filter are you using? That is nice and tidy sir. So much work!
 

woody

eternal noobie
Staff member
Oct 12, 2010
1,308
54
Toquerville UT
One of the cooling lines is thru the chassis main rail....no stress at all drilling this 1-3/8 hole - magnet on the backside to catch shavings, looks like it worked perfectly.

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MNorby

Spotter Required
Dec 31, 2016
101
One of the cooling lines is thru the chassis main rail....no stress at all drilling this 1-3/8 hole - magnet on the backside to catch shavings, looks like it worked perfectly.
That's one of my next projects as well. Did you hokle saw/notch it or maybe a large step bit? Any plans to block off the coolant from filling all the way to front bumper? I was thinking of cutting tube in front of nipple and welding in a disk .
 

woody

eternal noobie
Staff member
Oct 12, 2010
1,308
54
Toquerville UT
That's one of my next projects as well. Did you hokle saw/notch it or maybe a large step bit? Any plans to block off the coolant from filling all the way to front bumper? I was thinking of cutting tube in front of nipple and welding in a disk .
1-3/8 hole saw for the forward location, 1-1/2 plus some burr bit work for the rear. Not going to worry about a block off, just bleed the system at an angle. Might add a bleed point at the front later if needed. I'm pleased with how both turned out.

EDIT:: Based on how tight the rear was for welding, I'd keep both at 1-3/8" holes and 1-1/2" OD tube/hoses....don't ever want to repeat that :)
 
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woody

eternal noobie
Staff member
Oct 12, 2010
1,308
54
Toquerville UT
ComeUp Cub 4s mocked up on the rear housing ...the winch will need to be removed for the diff to come out. Less than 1/2" off center.

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woody

eternal noobie
Staff member
Oct 12, 2010
1,308
54
Toquerville UT
Plasma table for the win...this edge and the holes was one program, and turned out perfect. Next up: mount holes for the bottom skid and cutting the "drains" for the sides (since those will be welded on)

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woody

eternal noobie
Staff member
Oct 12, 2010
1,308
54
Toquerville UT
3/16" AR450 side skids are welded on....painted the inside tubes and the inside of the skid prior to welding. Paint is "done" for those, plus the bottom side of the rear tray and bottom side of the winch plate. Time to make a few chassis braces for the lower links.

Side plate cutouts should allow a 1/2"-ish rock to pass thru, plus all the sand....and least help with keeping it clean inside.

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