Build JHF Trail Chassis

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woody said:
WMS is 70 (pretty standard for a trail rig). I know a few locals that run narrower for comps, then add spacers for the trail.

I'm a Toyota guy....so the rear shaft will be 100% Toyota joints. The front will need a 1350 at the yoke, then Toyota from the carrier to the case. JE Reel is building with OEM Toyota supplier parts, and it's hard to beat the strength and longevity of their stuff. I believe the front driveshaft in my 1996 80-series is stock, with only 299,000 mall crawling miles on it :p (the rear has taken a dent or three, and runs a JE Reel with Toy joints now)
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IMO the strength and angle you can get out of toyota joints (oem toyota/lexus spiders is what I use) is unparalleled.
 
knapp870 said:
v6 or 4 cylinder thirds?
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4cyl. Once you change out the carrier to a spool or ARB, the gains of the Toyota V6 3rd are marginal...especially with the load reduction of the portals. My FToy ran 4cyl 3rds and ARB's front and rear...with 40" Milestar Blacks....I junked one rear r/p a year, wheeling more than most wheelers do in a lifetime.
 
woody said:
4cyl. Once you change out the carrier to a spool or ARB, the gains of the Toyota V6 3rd are marginal...especially with the load reduction of the portals. My FToy ran 4cyl 3rds and ARB's front and rear...with 40" Milestar Blacks....I junked one rear r/p a year, wheeling more than most wheelers do in a lifetime.
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What are your thoughts on stock carriers welded/lunchbox lockers? Just curious after reading Kalifs post on Facebook
 
woody said:
4cyl. Once you change out the carrier to a spool or ARB, the gains of the Toyota V6 3rd are marginal...especially with the load reduction of the portals. My FToy ran 4cyl 3rds and ARB's front and rear...with 40" Milestar Blacks....I junked one rear r/p a year, wheeling more than most wheelers do in a lifetime.
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Sweet so basically I don't need to worry about my 3rds on 39s they should last a life time. 😜
 
knapp870 said:
What are your thoughts on stock carriers welded/lunchbox lockers? Just curious after reading Kalifs post on Facebook
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Didn't see his post on it....FB sucks for actually finding/tracking content anymore.

If you are on a budget, both can work fine. I've run a couple different lunchbox brands in the past, and never had an issue....but the center pin has to move a fair amount before the locker engages, and that bit of unpredictability isn't desirable for highly technical wheeling since you cannot be SURE of when both tires will pull.

I ran a welded rear diff on my FJ40 for years. First attempt failed quickly, 2nd time lasted for...mmm....7 years? 37's and 39's....done right, they work fine. Mine was always a suspected weak point since I wasn't positive it would hold up, and I was unsure how the welding process had hurt the side/spider gears themselves.

I knew wheelers back in the day who would fill one tooth on a side gear and allow that partial rotation to occur before jamming....er, locking. I blew a diff apart Watched a diff blow apart once...lol
 
I tried the whole welding up a tooth on a 14 bolt once 15 years ago. Blew apart and shrapnel came through the stock diff cover. Next one was a solid orb of traction.
 
A little fuel cell setup this morning...

Holley fuel mat, installed 👍🏼

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out of curiosity, why not put a gentle 90* bend and only use a small piece of hose for the junction between the tube and hydramat?
 
JohnnyJ said:
out of curiosity, why not put a gentle 90* bend and only use a small piece of hose for the junction between the tube and hydramat?
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The aluminum pickup tube is just over .5" OD and .35 ID...the ~.075 wall isn't exactly something you bend easily, especially when it's factory-installed and already welded inside the tank. Getting a hose onto the cut tubing was a workout anyways. A "better" tank design would have included threading this tube into the fitting, but at $100 for a complete aluminum 12gal cell, beggars can't be choosers :)

My hands are only so small :)
 
woody said:
The aluminum pickup tube is just over .5" OD and .35 ID...the ~.075 wall isn't exactly something you bend easily, especially when it's factory-installed and already welded inside the tank. Getting a hose onto the cut tubing was a workout anyways. A "better" tank design would have included threading this tube into the fitting, but at $100 for a complete aluminum 12gal cell, beggars can't be choosers :)

My hands are only so small :)
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What tank did you end up getting?
 
woody said:
The aluminum pickup tube is just over .5" OD and .35 ID...the ~.075 wall isn't exactly something you bend easily, especially when it's factory-installed and already welded inside the tank. Getting a hose onto the cut tubing was a workout anyways. A "better" tank design would have included threading this tube into the fitting, but at $100 for a complete aluminum 12gal cell, beggars can't be choosers :)

My hands are only so small :)
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Oh, duh. I didn't put it together this a part of the cell, I was thinking this was a tube you were adding. I just hate having rubber line in a cell after having it disintegrate a few times, even when it was "safe". I got too focused on that problem.
 
Today's updates...

Power steering cooler in:
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Upper front shock tabs tacked in place:
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CAD work on interior/kick panels, and fitted/bent the drivers floor pan:
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And, adjusted the lower radiator mount....had to reverse and tweak the bolt so it could install from the outside.
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knapp870 said:
Let me know when and how you figure it out because i need to do thd same! Lol. Plan to have thek coated afterwards?
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Ceramic coating would be awesome....unsure if I'll just spray it myself with some VHT Ceramic or send it off.

I bought a factory 3800 exhaust crossover, but the 90* trans bellhousing interferes (stock is 60*)....so I may just do a custom crossover (above trans, below throttle body). Need to get the front driveshaft finalized and installed prior to deciding on a passenger versus driver exhaust, BUT there is a "huge" opening to exit the drivers side,, effectively below the drivers right knee, install a nice size muffler, then exit out the back with a resonator (I want it QUIET). My old FToy exhaust was below the drivers seat, with the headers by my foot.

Obviously, a combination of ceramic coating, wraps, shields, insulation and more will be needed to keep my knee from burning off....and might even include a switchable trans-tunnel 6" fan to push air around.

Need to get more exhaust mandrel pieces ordered up too. Have enough to experiment, but not do anything serious....yet....lol
 
woody said:
Ceramic coating would be awesome....unsure if I'll just spray it myself with some VHT Ceramic or send it off.

I bought a factory 3800 exhaust crossover, but the 90* trans bellhousing interferes (stock is 60*)....so I may just do a custom crossover (above trans, below throttle body). Need to get the front driveshaft finalized and installed prior to deciding on a passenger versus driver exhaust, BUT there is a "huge" opening to exit the drivers side,, effectively below the drivers right knee, install a nice size muffler, then exit out the back with a resonator (I want it QUIET). My old FToy exhaust was below the drivers seat, with the headers by my foot.

Obviously, a combination of ceramic coating, wraps, shields, insulation and more will be needed to keep my knee from burning off....and might even include a switchable trans-tunnel 6" fan to push air around.

Need to get more exhaust mandrel pieces ordered up too. Have enough to experiment, but not do anything serious....yet....lol
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I was just told. Mild steel headers rust unless coated. I have no experience though and am currently in a very similar boat deciding if a "stock" manifold system can work or if i need to use the header flanges i acquired to make some. I will likely go under front oil pan but over trans is also an option which is what my rock lizard had.

Something i foubd that works pretty well from a heat perspective is cut down airbake pans, or really any air gapped aluminum barrier. I had the crossover basically within an inch of my trans tunnel and foot and really never got very hot
 
JE Reel driveshafts ordered this morning. Rear is Toyota minitruck joints with 60x60mm flanges. Front is two-piece, 1310 at the case and mid, minitruck 60x60 at the front flange. Front will be 1.25 OD .188 wall.

And, some PSC and Branik bling arrived this weekend too 😎

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woody said:
JE Reel driveshafts ordered this morning. Rear is Toyota minitruck joints with 60x60mm flanges. Front is two-piece, 1310 at the case and mid, minitruck 60x60 at the front flange. Front will be 1.25 OD .188 wall.

And, some PSC and Branik bling arrived this weekend too 😎

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That skinny front shaft sounds exactly what I'm looking for to match my front shaft made from a dana 50 axleshaft. Guess i know who to call now!!
 
Progress...


Headrests are on....6" diameter 3/16" aluminum with some super bling vinyl/padded light covers :)

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Steering control valve is relocated....turns out, the more cc's your orbital has, the longer it is....so if you ever see a need to go larger, be sure you plan for additional length. This one is 3/4" longer than the one @Lil Rich is using.
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Brake system tacked in....the relay that runs along the floor needed to be longer, so cut a new one on the plasma table....and the tube mounting tabs also needed to be longer by 1/2" - already loving the Crossfire...
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AND, the reinforcement for the rockers is on...3/4" diameter SOLID rod - ordered from Speedway motors, five 72" pieces of solid steering rod for $100 delivered.
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Love the high dollar headrests. I've often thought about going with low back seats and moving the headrest back a little to make it more comfortable to wear a helmet.
 
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