OldRocDoc
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- Dec 26, 2016
- 54
Two to Twelve is looking doable
Great work, as always!
Great work, as always!
Build JHF Trail Chassis
- Thread starter woody
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #182
Engine cleanup in progress....lower intake manifold is a notorious issue, so fresh gaskets and a small bit of coolant plugging/porting seemed like good preventative maintenance. New Firebird oilpan/pickup going on too for better oiling.
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- Thread starter
- #183
I H8 Interior work...but it's coming along. Drivers floor pan is next.
Also, my new BLING rear steer switch cover arrived....you know you want one... (I have 20+ extras...)
Also, my new BLING rear steer switch cover arrived....you know you want one... (I have 20+ extras...)
- Thread starter
- #184
Baking paint...
Blase
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Any idea what it weighs as pictured?
- Thread starter
- #186
not offhand.... I do know that I can easily lift one end by myself as I moved it on/off rollers, and the bare "finished" chassis could be picked up by two people.
Broski
Spotter Required
Wow that's some kind of long paint baking. Special Paint ? 
Seriously though, Hope everything is OK this is the longest span in between posts since the start of the build.
Or maybe your just hanging out with the new neighbors the Lite Brite Nation.
Seriously though, Hope everything is OK this is the longest span in between posts since the start of the build.
Or maybe your just hanging out with the new neighbors the Lite Brite Nation.
- Thread starter
- #188
Actually, just returned from 10 days in the Exumas, and prepping today/tomorrow for a few days on the Rubicon....back at it next week! Gotta play a "little" between coats of paint! lol
Broski
Spotter Required
I'm heading out for the Rubicon tomorrow, hopefully we will have a chance to meet up. Lets wheel 
No spotter Required !!
No spotter Required !!
- Thread starter
- #190
Engine set in place, trans filter and pan replaced.
Had to rethink my "heel pocket" idea for the brake/acc area on the drivers side...realized that the pedal arm for the brakes was set to a specific length (arguably per Jesse's designs) and the heel pocket on that side would put the pedal at my toes, instead of the balls of my feet. Not a great idea. Also minic'd the brake design for a accellerator pedal, and have that being mocked up now. That means a flat drivers side floor pan...so a new piece of alum is cut and ready to drop in. Pics later when paint dries
It's only metal
Had to rethink my "heel pocket" idea for the brake/acc area on the drivers side...realized that the pedal arm for the brakes was set to a specific length (arguably per Jesse's designs) and the heel pocket on that side would put the pedal at my toes, instead of the balls of my feet. Not a great idea. Also minic'd the brake design for a accellerator pedal, and have that being mocked up now. That means a flat drivers side floor pan...so a new piece of alum is cut and ready to drop in. Pics later when paint dries
It's only metal
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- Thread starter
- #191
So, this happened.... Pre-production D300 RockBox from Midnight Metalworks...
- Thread starter
- #193
Rear axle assembly....inner axle seals, Gear Oil gasket maker, PSC mount, ComeUp Cub 4s
- Thread starter
- #194
Painting rear knuckle parts...
- Thread starter
- #195
So, there are no published/official torque specs for the JHF brake/steering setup on these Hummer knuckles...so, I made these up. Time will tell...
Six 1/2-13 bolts were torqued to 80ftlbs
(Four have 3/4 6-point heads, two have 1/2" 12pt heads)
Five/Six (depending on side) 3/8-16 bolts torqued to 45ftlbs
Eight 5/16-18 caliper bracket bolts torqued to 30ftlbs
Six 1/2-13 bolts were torqued to 80ftlbs
(Four have 3/4 6-point heads, two have 1/2" 12pt heads)
Five/Six (depending on side) 3/8-16 bolts torqued to 45ftlbs
Eight 5/16-18 caliper bracket bolts torqued to 30ftlbs
87yjtoy
Loves Light Bars
Google a torque chart you are a little lite on the 1/2" grade 8 1/2 13 should be around 125
looking good
looking good
- Thread starter
- #197
I did....the chart I found was for a 1/2-13 bolt, and considering the knuckle is cast, I don't wanna push my luck.
Broski
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I have that same Tekton torque wrench and find it to be junk. I moved up to a Snap-on that I can trust.
I'm surprised your using that thing.
- Thread starter
- #200
I've had zero complaints with any of the Tekton tools I own. I have a handful of junk SnapOn and Craftsman stuff.I have that same Tekton torque wrench and find it to be junk. I moved up to a Snap-on that I can trust.
I'm surprised your using that thing.
Broski
Spotter Required
OKI've had zero complaints with any of the Tekton tools I own. I have a handful of junk SnapOn and Craftsman stuff.
Mine quit working on the third use.My older Craftsman ( had over 40 years are good ) the new stuff junk
- Thread starter
- #203
Progress....more or less...
Started the day chatting with Jesse...turns out, spools require a spacer/block inside the spool so the inners don't slip in too far and strip the outer splines of the inner axle...
At that point, I had the wheels/tires on....so apart came the front 3x. FML.
Ended up using a poly spring bushing that fit snugly inside the spool. Cut the length down to 1" exactly-ish. (On the 3rd try....yay?!?) Inners now fit perfect, minimal inwards movement, keeping the inner axle fully seated in the birfield star.
Radflos are on, need to put some nitrogen in them and set a prelim height.
Been a long sweaty day...
Started the day chatting with Jesse...turns out, spools require a spacer/block inside the spool so the inners don't slip in too far and strip the outer splines of the inner axle...
At that point, I had the wheels/tires on....so apart came the front 3x. FML.
Ended up using a poly spring bushing that fit snugly inside the spool. Cut the length down to 1" exactly-ish. (On the 3rd try....yay?!?) Inners now fit perfect, minimal inwards movement, keeping the inner axle fully seated in the birfield star.
Radflos are on, need to put some nitrogen in them and set a prelim height.
Been a long sweaty day...
SteerAndStuff
Spotter Required
Good to know about the spool spacer. I picked up a spool cheap with idea to setup a spare 3rd at same point.
- Thread starter
- #205
Closer....note to self, NEVER use rubber gaskets in tranny pans....cork, always!!
Tentative ride height....3.5" front shock shaft, 4.5" rear shock shaft (no fuel or tools or fluids yet)...
Front: 50psi
Rear: 35psi
Tentative ride height....3.5" front shock shaft, 4.5" rear shock shaft (no fuel or tools or fluids yet)...
Front: 50psi
Rear: 35psi
Looks killer!!
What’s the belly at?
- Thread starter
- #207
Belly (with skid) is about 19". Rear shocks are still an inch high, fronts may lower 1/2". Need to get the weight in it and finalize where the pressures need to be (and get a day/two of test time in)
Got some wiring done last evening, header wrap and some other stuff is on track today. It's a cool 95 already
AwesomeBelly (with skid) is about 19". Rear shocks are still an inch high, fronts may lower 1/2". Need to get the weight in it and finalize where the pressures need to be (and get a day/two of test time in)
Got some wiring done last evening, header wrap and some other stuff is on track today. It's a cool 95 already
- Thread starter
- #209
Exhaust is wrapped and in....note to self: weld in the O2 bung before wrapping...
Wiring is well on it's way....fuel pump/relay is set, starter is set, front winch is set, other stuff is in process...
Trying to only do this three times the first time...uugh
Wiring is well on it's way....fuel pump/relay is set, starter is set, front winch is set, other stuff is in process...
Trying to only do this three times the first time...uugh
- Thread starter
- #210
Progress...
It runs!! Major unknown, since it was a 2nd hand engine....bit it appears to run smooth. TPS is likely on the new sensor list tho.
AND it steers! Still a bit of wiring to finish up, but the "hotwire" test passed.
And we have cooling fans and relays and stuff! With both fans next to the battery, running stand-alone for each made sense...the green wire is the negative switch for the radiator, and the trans is 100% standalone. Easy access if something needs to be bypassed too.
5-wire relay wiring for negative switching:
Blue (30) and White (86): battery positive (fused 30a)
Yellow (87): fan positive
Black (85): negative trigger
Red (87a): remove entirely
Chasing some cooling oddities yet....guessing I simply need to get the system 100% air free to solve it....but it ran for about :30 yesterday with no issues, and the cooling fan switched on at 220 (which is the factory setting...need to change that)
It runs!! Major unknown, since it was a 2nd hand engine....bit it appears to run smooth. TPS is likely on the new sensor list tho.
AND it steers! Still a bit of wiring to finish up, but the "hotwire" test passed.
And we have cooling fans and relays and stuff! With both fans next to the battery, running stand-alone for each made sense...the green wire is the negative switch for the radiator, and the trans is 100% standalone. Easy access if something needs to be bypassed too.
5-wire relay wiring for negative switching:
Blue (30) and White (86): battery positive (fused 30a)
Yellow (87): fan positive
Black (85): negative trigger
Red (87a): remove entirely
Chasing some cooling oddities yet....guessing I simply need to get the system 100% air free to solve it....but it ran for about :30 yesterday with no issues, and the cooling fan switched on at 220 (which is the factory setting...need to change that)
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